SimonR32

Sorry the google translate feature I'm using could not translate your language into English.

Castrol Edge 10w60 Been perfect every time I have dropped it after track days etc

430rwkw, that video it was only running about 400rwkw I sold my GTR for a deposit on my house. I bought my Gts-t for cheap after that and having been building it up since

Get off the crack pipe! How am I a GTR fanboy when I own a fast Gts-t? I have owned both (fast GTR and fast Gts-t) and I can tell you the only thing that could keep up with the GTR at low speed was other GTR's and maybe from 60km/hr a quick evo could keep up in 2nd, third was game over. Take your slow Gts-t and go home... PS. This is from around 60-70km/hr in my old GTR, I bet you can keep up

I took my Mum for a spin in my old 430rwkw GTR moooohahaha she was not impressed Yeah and even they don't work that well without heat in them... A 10 sec GTR will eat a 10 sec Gts-t alive unless your rolling on throttle in 4th gear

Something along those lines with maybe a little less exaggeration

They are weak 2-ways, thus the Nismo kit to make it tight like a tiger

Lots of practice.... PFFT I did one pass But I guess it wasn't a 10 I had 360rwkw (dyno dynamics) or 410rwkw (dynapac with correction) and yes knowing how to peddle well and smash gears helps I don't think you need a lot of the things you have listed Also on the street a 10sec car isn't really a 10sec car... Unless it's a GTR

That's a good job, well done BSA for keeping the standard splitter. If that is not there you are f**king with flow so badly it's probably going backwards!

Never fear, I'll chuck some cams and springs in my car this year and try for some more power to keep the pundits happy

Did you keep the standard splitter inside the manifold when you modded it for external gate? If you didn't I would recommend that you ditch it, get a new one and weld gate to rear housing! Guys asking about gates, I think Tial 44mm MVR off ebay for $400 is a bargain and you can't go wrong

24psi

Really? Mine only make 360rwkw on a dyno dynamics which I would say read similar to mainline

More info here! http://www.full-race.com/store/fuel-systems/fuel-pumps/walbro-400lph.html Full race are selling them so *insert EFR failure related joke here*

Haha Roy, you are onto it DVS JEZ have a look at my build thread about subframe alignment play around to get power down better. I think this is a average result but shows a lot of potential when the boost and misfire are fixed... I'm tipping 325rwkw with 15psi in 4th gear on the road at 3200rpm

Looking good for the boost and revs it's doing

He knows I'll be hunting him again next year at powercruise

Lolwut

http://forums.evolutionm.net/automotosports-illinois/566110-bosch-044-aeromotive-stealth-340-deatschwerks-dw300-walbro-255lph-fuel-pump-test.html

I'm sorry what are you looking at? The blue line? Which is the pump that is designed for N/A motors? If you have a GS340/341/342 (which unless you are retarded you would have purchased) then look at the pink line... Also why are you posting a 12V graph? Here you go, a 13.5V test (which is a tad under the voltage a Skyline pump should be running) 70psi on a GS341 = 210L/hr which on the graph clearly shows you can outflow the 550cc injectors he is running. They are not bad pumps, they are actually very good.

I have this one... "the 4" inlet t67-25g (oil cooled)" and I have had no issues at all. The "4" inlet td06sl2-25g (water cooled)" is the same turbo with a different CHRA for water cooling. The "TD07-25g" and "3" anti surge inlet td06sl2-25g (water cooled)" are the same turbo as above but with different compressor covers. The "4" inlet td06h-25g (water cooled)" has a bigger rear wheel which people have said makes it laggier with not that much more top end, Roy has had good results on his RB20 with this type of rear wheel. My suggestion would be go the same turbo as mine, you can't go wrong! The 3076R will be more like $1000+ to get running (including extra cost and custom oil/water lines) and in my opinion is not worth it

Bigger hole than I usually see on redtube!

I would be looking elsewhere if your running out of fuel at 275rwkw. Walbros can flow a lot more than is needed for that kind of power For example at 13.5V and 70psi they flow around 220L/hr which is enough to feed your 550cc injectors plus a little bit more

ARTZ, could you add up the costs you have dished out for?

Some advice for you! TD06SL2 10cm $750 Tial 44mm $400 Screamer Pipe $100 Welding gate to rear housing $150 Modifying current dump to suit v-band $150 New Intake pipe $150 Total $1700 That probably about all you will need to spend and they are realistic prices on what you should pay, if you can get the fabrication done cheaper then even better. Considering the Hypergear is $1550 (and you still need a intake pipe, gaskets etc) they would end up coming in around the same price Also... You can't weld the gate onto the dump as it removes the gases before they hit the turbine, you asking that question really scares me that you have no idea