SimonR32

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Blue-Tial-MVR-44mm-V-Band-Wastegate-ALL-SPRINGS-/180768768264?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a16a88108#ht_730wt_1396 Cheap!

Same as my T67-25g just named differently Yes should go over 300rwkw and full boost before 4000rpm

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-RB20DET-RB25DET-2-4-Cover-8cm-T3-V-Band-TD06SL2-20G-/290635791774?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ab3e3d9e#ht_2625wt_1396 Would be great as a response weapon... Probably not the greatest for top end with a 8cm rear

Nice work Nick, got a rough ETA?

I think you will find that the dyno dynamics run is a full run... the power curve has turned over, its more likely that the dyno just wasn't calibrated properly between speed and rpm cause they were in a rush on the day. Also 6% for correction but add another 7% that the dyno reads higher than rollers. My guess would have been 340rwhp on a roller... 320 isn't that far off! Mph... i think you would struggle for much over 113mph

^^^WHS Also keen for the drags, you guys know your way to Perth 320rwhp

I just talked to my mate Brad, he had pretty much all the same codes. He is going to come on soon and tell you how to fix everything

Is it possible to get a split pair? Eg. 1. Style 1 x VIOS III and 1 x GIAS 2 2. Back materail, ie F/G or Carbon, Glitter F/G Carbon 3. Materail Colour Logo Graduation 4. Pick up Brisbane or Post (Use transdirect for OZ wide delivery quote) Post to WA 6106

Hanaldo, Some advice for you... The allstar graph has correction turned on so that adds about 6% on that dynos normal figure. then there is a difference between roller and hub dynos so you loose more with that difference so a genuine 320rwhp may be a more accurate figure. Which is, lets not get mixed up with words, a totally crap result! Now, the issue with the ecu. My mate had very similar issues with his r34 and power fc. Took him and Sean ages to work out a fix but I believe it was something to do with the traction control. Maybe ask Sean if he remembers how they fixed brads issue, otherwise ill try get brad on here to give you some advice. Unfortunately if you do get the issue fixed and you don't make substantially more power and response it looks like you may have got a dud set up :-( Simon

Sell the 3040 for $1000 and buy a Kando T67 for around $800 Plus you will save another $400-500 on oil and water lines using the Kando

Unfortunately we over here in the West have no choice... It was amazing to see how many people have caught onto the E42 bandwagon over here, since we tuned my car at Allstar they pretty much recommend the "jew mix" to all the drifters haha

T67 every single day of the week... Beats a 3040 for response and power by miles

A fair while ago there was a topic by STATUS with a poopra that ran twin TD06SL2's and I think made a tad over 1000hp Do it, it will be a monster

Something must have been wrong with the old set up... You can't gain 1200rpm of response with just a good engine

I think there would have been a 65 in it with a bit more practice but I was still tentative on the brakes after I went off backwards into turn 1 last time I was at the track. The last lap of the weekend I was going to do a balls out lap with around 50 extra hp plus 500rpm to see just how that would go but alas it blew the cooler pipe off as soon as I got on the gas along the main straight haha

I was fairly happy with the times considering it's a street car with no cage and full interior etc and probably the worst aero in the world haha. I'm going to purchase a Gopro Hero2 when I get back from my holiday

That's what I was hinting at... If he has gone from Whiteline "maximum traction" setting to this and thinks he has got 5 times the amount of traction I think I will have to make the change

That was my original plan but lack of time and extra effort put me off... I may end up going that way one day if I feel the need! What kind of subframe bushes/alignment were you using before the swap? and also how much extra NVH are you getting with the solid bushes?

American tool for measuring power... So it will probably just default to 1000rwhp for every car

132.5 not 135 haha You have no idea how emo I was after getting chopped by the GTR's all weekend because they were gassing second gear half way through the corner... I was lucky to get traction in 3rd in a straight line

I'll hand my keys to someone if they promise to hold my car flat through the esses I'm not paying for the funeral costs though

Define decent cams, might be time soon for a set for my set up

Like you gave me any head start this year! haha I think by the time powercruise comes around I'll be running MT Streets on the rear to scare the GTR's

Much better, check out my build thread... I just did a run down on how I went

Ok so I ended up getting most the stuff done that I wanted before the weekend (just)... Installed the Whiteline subframe bush to set diff angle to maximum traction Turned all the dampers back to soft on the Greddy coils Installed a Whiteline 24mm adjustable front sway bar and set to hard Got some New AVS model 5's 17x8+38 all round and mounted my 235 RE55S and left the wheel alignment the same Car was a LOT better to drive, didn't feel like getting on the gas was going end up with me being killed as the result of massive over steer. Corner entry was also better, the back wasn't kicking out as much. So much more confident in driving the car at fast speeds, even traction in the straight line seemed to be improved So we only did the long track which was new to me over the weekend and I managed to do a 66.7sec while still getting used to braking points and not pushing overly hard. They say there is about 10sec difference between short and long so I have defiantly gained some time and didn't have to push anywhere as near as hard to get there so happy days For next time at the track I think I'll be adding some R33 LCA's to get camber at the front up to -3.5deg and have another crack at short track. If I can get down to the 54's I would be stoked