SimonR32

Yes, you are correct... People don't often understand the concept of why when your 60ft is lower the mph is lower. When you do a quicker 60ft you do a quicker ET, a quicker ET allows your car less time to accelerate and thus is going slower at the finish line.

I guess it was a bit of a plug, mind you I always thought that being infamous was not all it's cracked up to be. I gave up getting back to you with evidence after you said the dyno figures were inflated, the mph of the trap speeds were fake and just generally everything that I showed you was impossible! But hey, I have every reason to lie about it... ...wait actually I don't!

Can't see why not, I do have a sard reg as well but it's set at standard pressure so doing exactly the same thing as a stocker Yeah, it's only people like Elite Racing that seem to have issues with injectors/pumps not flowing. I have a feeling it might be the tradie and not the tool in that case haha

E85 mixed with BP98 50% Deatschwerks 740cc GTR injectors with resistor pack to drop impedance Bosch 044 in tank rewired to run full voltage

Hypercry? By external filter block you mean the block adapter or remote oil filter kit?

Also keen to know thoughts on the oil cooler causing failure! I've got one coming with a built in thermostat

Everyone does love a basher 32 Liking the new look, nice and different while not looking stupid

3 different dynos... 2 different cars?

Not really, 5 years ago we were making 520rwhp on 17psi using BP98 with T04Z's

I'm with you, I have a boost gauge and that is it Everything else is going to tell me my motor is going to be f**ked, I'd rather be told by the motor itself haha

Makes sense then

Is the gate plumbed back into the dump?

That tyre end up feeling like you were driving on a 50c piece after the lockups? I flatspotted mine at the top of 4th, only just touched the brake and jumped straight off when it locked but the damage was already done. Was like driving on a pogo stick around corners from then on

Awesome pictures! Got to be happy with that

0.1bar drop is marginal if that! Be happy with it and leave it alone

Noticed this in the turbo upgrade thread... Unfortunately it doesn't seem to help in any way in telling what the turbo is like because the curve is a dog of a thing (I'm guessing boost control is all over the shop), no boost level was noted and also inlet temps would allow for a fair bit of correction power wise! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=340033

Interesting, would love to see some actual results. I'm a little lost on how a compressor that should flow about 100hp more makes 100hp less at the wheels?

GTR diffs are 4.11 and Gts-t are 4.3s?!? I can't remember what auto Gts-t are but I think they are 3.9... God knows where 3.2 are from?

Going on a RB26 yeah? Has it been built?

I had issues with a front facing plenum hitting the clutch master in my 32 but it was a easy fix by replacing it with a R33 clutch master which are a lot shorter... Don't know if this will work in your situation but it's probably your best bet

BP98/Toluene mix by the look of his signature...

I use castrol edge 10-60 :-)

Well now I'm just jealous! haha Is your turbo ID tag the same as mine, as in a Kinugawa tag with T67-25g as the model? Good luck with the tune

"experience" being no skills in tuning a map sensored ecu?

Forget the twin scroll, just a GTX3071R on a 6boober with a decent gate