SimonR32

I much prefer the D-jetro option, speak to your tuner though they should have a preference...

Castrol Edge 10-60W Old thumper RB's love it

Needs maaaaaaawww power! Also ear muffs cooooooooommme on, it doesn't even have gate haha Nice video though

I was running 24psi and 8000rpm out of my RB20 for a fair while running about the same power as you... Not a single drop in my catch can and that car got belted the f**k out of it on a stock motor, so maybe the motor is a little loose or tired?

My old GTR motor had a stock balancer (balanced with the new bottom end) and it was running fine, it was then switched to a ATI balancer (the guy who purchased my car got the wrong one for a R33 GTR and it kept flicking off power steering belts) so he changed to a Ross balancer. The motor then proceeded to lunch itself, shitting a oil pump, cracking the block as well as damaging the bearings. The motor was fine for 2 years running between 500-575rwhp and then suddenly after changing to a ROSS balancer it broke in very short period of time! Not blaming the ROSS balancer and it may be a coincidence, but food for thought

You can see that it is fairly small on the RB25 as a 7psi boost drop top end shows, would be pushing out a fair bit of heat I would expect, but it clearly still works! Maybe a TD06SL2 10cm would allow a bit more exhaust flow and make the power a little easier... I believe STATUS said that the T67 with a 8cm is a waste of time, you only get a tiny gain in response but a decent loss of top end power. Originally I had the plan that if the T67 was a bit too laggy for khanas etc I would buy a TD06SL2 10cm as well and swap between turbos for when I needed a bit more response or a bit more top end. After I have driven around track/drags/street with the T67 I can say that it's good enough to be a all rounder with no need for a smaller option.

Took me a while to find but here is the one you are talking about I believe

Unlucky, I've done this one but luckily only got about 100m down the road and stopped because I felt the vibration! Least noone got hurt

Here is a quick comparo of both my cars on dyno dynamics dynos, both had the same diff ratio so it should be fairly accurate. Seat of pants, well the T04Z GTR seemed to punch really hard as it came on boost and then held power to limiter, T67 which feels more gradial and keeps pulling harder and harder till limiter. The graphs show it fairly well actually. Never had the GTR down the drags but it would have pulled about the same mph as the Gts-t and time would really depend on the launch.

Kinugawa T67 on stock RB25: 1bar in 4th at 3500rpm and 480rwhp on E42.5 mix Garrett T04Z on built RB26 with cams: 1bar in 4th 4000rpm and 575rwhp on BP98 Can't really compare them because they are on different fuels, with different motors in different cars... They both are about as quick as each other (although the GTR would monster the Gts-t in 1st, 2nd and probably 3rd on the street because of the 4WD grip) but the Gts-t is a lot lighter so that makes up for the lack on outright power. Really it's apples with oranges, T04Z will make 150hp more than the T67

Just make sure that power steering line is nowhere near the manifold, otherwise I hope you have a big extinguisher Carbon canister should be thrown in the bin

Are you on crack? antilag is probably the most performance based car club in perth, if not the country...

I believe it was on BP98 with a low mount 6 boost manifold, can't remember if it had a front facing plenum.

This is the only graph I have seen with a Kinugawa T67-25g with cams; Blue = Stock cams Red = Camtech drop in cams http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=294805 No plans for cams, I really don't see the need... Turbo appears to be maxing itself out and I have more than enough power throughout the rev range

Maximum daytime temperature was usually about -12 haha

You missed the subtle sarcastic joke... Yes I am on antilag

Ironic, I remember cars from autosalon having big wheels, poorly fitted body kits and lowered too low for looks and not performance...

Kando T67-25g 10cm is a direct copy of a Greddy T67-25g 10cm which was designed in Japan by a massive company with huge experience for 2.5L applications so I would say that point is null and void, if not a little naive. Saying that, I have owned both a Kando turbo and a Hypergear turbo. Both are great turbos, good value for money and would (and do) recommend either to anyone who suits their application.

E70 would probably be needed then I got back from Canada about a month ago, they all use electric oil warmers in winter on Petrol motors and Diesels pretty much don't start when it's really cold haha Temperature ranged from -10 to -38deg

Kando turbos come with gaskets and oil/water lines and fittings but around $3000 would be the least to get you going in a high mount external gate arrangement. Hypergear low mount needs a new intake pipe, silicon joiners, clamps etc on top of what you listed, I would say budget at least $2000 for turbo/parts if the turbo alone is $1450. Performance, well for under 300rwkw I would probably go for the Hypergear as it's the cheaper option and will do the job well... Over 300rwkw? Kando is a better but more expensive option

Where did you get that info from?!?

See below, he picked the averages of both of the runs he had on file. Nah mine is just a R33 RB25DET It's more like 250kw at the hubs and it's about right considering it's only running 17psi considering they max out around 270-280kw at 20psi

Just to show you it's not just my car but rather the T67-25g turbo, I have below some results that Trent from STATUS has posted in the past. If you have a look here a comparison of a 3071R vs T67, only goes to 7200rpm but you can see power is still climbing while Garrett has fallen over. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=283435 Here is another one, once again only revving to 7200rpm... But clearly not falling over any time soon http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=294805

China copy Greddy manifold... Also exhaust cam gear at -4deg It's the turbo not the motor, on the same dyno there have been countless GT3076R RB25 cars with similar mods that all fall over between 7000-7500rpm

Flash point of Ethanol is 13deg and petrol around -40deg By my calculations the flash point should be around the following... E95 = 10deg E85 = 5deg E70 = 1deg These are only approximate figures but they wouldn't be too far off. I know for over here in WA we could probably get away with E95 all year around as it only really drops below 10deg ambient in winter on cold mornings. For colder weather like Melbourne you would probably get away with E85 all year around, E70 maybe for super cold mornings... Realistically Australia has a fairly hot climate and there is no real need for winter mix (car may take a few more turn overs in winter) but remember they are selling to non car enthusiasts as well who may consider the extra cranking a problem/issue