plaganis

Count me in - Paul (white) R33 GTS-T Coupe

Thanks for the info, really appreciate it. Pity you experimented 3 times in getting things right. I think I will wait until I reach 5000k's before tackling the belt again, and if I do I will get the gears changed as well, therefore I make the job worth while. Paul.

Thanks Guys, Appreciate the comments, but has anyone actually tried adjusting the belt again to see if the noise improves?? Or goes away. Also for those of you mechanically minded did anyone notice how the belt fit onto the cam gears. Did the belt sit flush into the gears or was there a bit of play. The old belt that had years of wear had a fair bit of play and the new one while a lot beter still has slight play. I'm thinking that worn cam gears could be a factor in the noise. Any thoughts. Paul.

Hi All, Quick question on the gates timing belt sold for the skylines, the blue coloured one. I know a lot of people are using this product out there. I recently changed my timing belt to the gates brand and now have a slight humming sound coming from the belt at low rpm or idle. The mechanic did explain that if the belts are tensioned too tight that they will hum, but as I was with him while the work was being done I don't believe that the belt was over tensioned. We actually went to a lot of trouble in getting the right tension. The old though was worn and very loose. Anyway, has anyone had the same experience using the gates belt. Does it settle in and the noise go away?? Is that the way they are?? Or should I go to the trouble and losen the belt off a touch and see what happens?? Any ideas?? I would be greatful. Regards, Paul.

Thanks for the replies, more information than I expected, but that's great. So I can assume that +7 is about 13.5 to 14psi assuming the gauge is working correctly. Thanks again, Paul.

Definitely will solve your misfire. Providing of course that the coils are the problem. But 99% of the time coils are the cause of misfiring. I had the same problem on my R33 and just recently bought splitfire coils from Lynx corporation in Erina central coast. Also put in Splitfire triple platinum spark plugs. I now have no more misfiring and much crispier throttle response. It revs a lot smoother as well. So in my opinion worth the investment. Paul.

Hi All, Quick question. Does anyone know what the figures on the R33 in dash boost gauge stand for? For example, there is -7, 0, +7 and I think its in KPA. So if you are to convert these figures to psi what is the conversion?? In other words +7 equals what in psi? Appreciate anyone's help. Paul.

Its not really damage that occurs, it's just that they don't work as well. Especially if the coil packs are getting older this doesn't help. Eventually of course a coil pack will die. If you stick with irridums then use splitfire coils, around $800.00. Paul.

I don't believe they will destroy the coil packs, but if you have standard coils irridium plugs will make them work harder. For the best performance with these plugs you probably need a set of split-fire coils and have your plugs gapped correctly. i.e. high boost smaller gap around 0.8 to 0.9mm. Standard boost then the 1.1 gap will work ok. I changed to NGK irridiums about 4 months ago and had nothing but trouble, misfiring, hesitation in the mid rev range. The smaller gap solved the misfiring but the car just never reved the way it used to. This is because my standard coil packs couldn't handle the irridium plugs. I recently changed my irridiums to NGK copper ®, gapped them at 0.9mm and the car runs like a dream. They will only last about 20-30k depending on how you drive, but for $20.00 for a set of 6 who's complaining. If you feel that you need the better plug, best to stick with NGK platium. The only problem is they come pre-gapped so you need to order them with your preferred gap. Paul.

Sorry, Model of car is R33 GTS-T Ser 1.

Hi All, I know a lot of Skyline drivers out there use copper plugs as an alternative to platium and irridium plugs. Especially with modifications copper plugs are easier to tune and are less prone to misfiring. However does anyone know how long these plugs will last (km's approx) with normal driving use. I don't mind using these plugs but changing them too often would be a pain. Thanks, Paul.

I had no problems with the hicas in my R33. Removed it because I do a few track days and the car becomes very unsettled with hicas. I replaced the whole unit with a lock bar, cost around $200 for the chrome Alloy type. Did the job myself so no other costs involved except for a wheel alignment.

Thanks for the tips, I will work from top and bottom. I know all about the possibility of breaking studs but hope not too!! As for taking the bonnet off I'll try and work around it. Don't want to make the job bigger than what it is. Thanks again. Paul.

Hi All, Can anyone give me a few installation tips on installing the turbo back dump pipe for a R33 Skyline. I know the procedure and what needs to be done but is there anything tricky that I need to know about or look out for. Any advice is appreciated. Regards, Paul.

Thanks for the advice and photos, job doesn't look easy so I am not looking forward to it!!

I could smell the coolant first, then I saw the passenger floor mat wet with coolant. As I investigated further I also noticed coolant was going under the carpet.

Hi All, My R33 has a leak from the heater core located under the dash on the passenger side. Noticed the leak while I had the Air-con on and a smell of coolant inside the cabin. Does anyone have any experience in removing the heater core. Basically I want to know does the whole dash need to be removed or is it sufficient to remove the glove box section to work on the heater core. Any advice is appreciated. Paul.

From my understanding it needs to go between the wastegate and turbo. On the case of the R33 the turbo connection is via the intercooler piping. However I cannot comment on a R31 as I never seen this set-up. Perhaps you could start a new forum discussion on "Installation of boost controller for R31".

Thanks for the help, I will give it a go.

Sounds like a neater set-up, however what confuses me is that the factory solenoid has two pipes connected. One from solenoid to the T-piece (this can be removed by blocking the T-section or using a straight joiner) the other from solenoid to the wastegate. Then the T-piece has also another pipe connected going to the wastegate and the other side to the intercooler piping. Would it be correct to fit the controller between the intercooler piping and wastegate but then block the second wastegate pipe that was connected to the soleniod? Sorry, a little confusing when putting a picture to words.

Hi All, I would like some tips on how to install a mechanical boost controller on a R33. I recently purchased the turbotech controller. I know it goes between the turbo and wastegate, but I have been told that the solenoid needs to be taken out of the equation. Does anyone have any specific instructions or photos they could email me on how to properly install this. Thanks in advance. Paul.

I would like to come along to this event, please send me information as it becomes available. Regards, Paul.

Naiwiboo, this is an excellent documentation of the problem. I've had this problem for a few days now and I believe it's due to the stiffer suspension that has recently been installed giving the car a harder ride. I removed the shroud around the steering yesterday only to discover that the clunk was coming from within the steering/Airbag. Thought it was a difficult job, but now sounds too easy. Thanks heaps. For your info I don't have any associated horn problems!

Thanks for that information FAT32, $1800.00 is really stretching the budget but it's always good to know what's available. I think I will opt for a heavy duty or brass-button clutch, retail around $600.00 + installation. As for the flywheel I will check the condition and if need be get it machined. At the end of the day its all about dollars!!

Nothing against HICAS, I think for general road use the active rear steering does wounders for driveability. But you go on a racetrack and drive flat out you will discover your ass end undecided in the direction it wants to take, therefore it doesn’t make driving a pleasurable experience!! I think Nissan should have made an override switch on HICAS so the driver can decide whether to use it or not! Anyway easier said then done.