sparkmanv11

NISSAN dont list as an option with/without wiper hole in parts catalogue. It was a factory option/N1 item only. Willing to swap my current tinted holed one plus negoiated cash exchange. Prefer S.A but open to interstaters. Does a 33GTST rear window fit a GTR rear window.

Marion Rd SAFF staff said that the company had gone into receivership and has been taken over by MOGAS not sure of spelling. He wasnt sure if they would even keep selling it. SAFF management have advised the DUTY OFFICE that they havent been able to source an E85 measuring pump in OZ. Anyone heard anything different. The duty office pointed out that more than likely the East Coast pumps are in the same boat except the Government weights and measures people havent got to them yet. Its taken the S.A weights and measures 2 years to get to SAFF. Bloke at SAFF reckons it was a disgruntled ex employee that dobbed in for being non compliant.

My RAYS dura-nuts for TE37s say 88 ~ 118nm.

Not saying its right or wrong, just pointing out that SLIDE has them in the Business Traders section with a photo of the box for each model and for the R33 it is the part number you have listed.

I have 18x9 TE37s with 265/35 RE55s. The rim has a heavy bead and as such the 265s arent as wide as the bead I am paranoid about gutter rash. Go the the 275s. Yes you will get tram lining but it varies with the tyre choice,RE55s are bad for it but you cant beat the traction.

My PFC computer and hand controller kit has s/n 414AN029 NISSAN BNR32/BCNR33. Hand controller has s/n 020 09675. Welcome 2 borrow if suitable. Has been in for a couple pf years

I have a stock s2 gearshift assembly if u need for static test.

IBD Independant Battery Distributors South road and Pooraka $96.00 for NS40LMF

I have one in my 33 GTR. Was fitted by previous owner, hav'nt had any problems with the install but has the usual Brant issues, like you have to be practically in the car for the remote to work and poor quality key fob. However its one of only 3 alarms Shannons will insure on and as such i will be keeping it until I can afford something better. Judging by the way skylines are getting knocked off in S.A i.e a couple a week, its doing a great job for me so far.

I bought RAYS DURA-NUTS M12xP1.5 M12xP1.25 for the 18 x 9.5 TE37,s I put on my R33 GTR. they are made of Duralumin they weigh < 10 grams about a quarter of the standard nuts. They are specifically made for RAYS wheels. Come with lock nuts and special wheel nut socket. Mine are black but also come in red and blue. Bought them from NENGUN 16800yen. Torque to 88 - 118 Nm.

BB, I have Cusco adjustable tension rods in my 33GTR, Part number 232 479 A, they are straight and have brake cooling duct mount bars on them with pre-drilled holes. I run +6 degrees of castor with -5mm of camber with Cusco preset adjustable top arms.

Birnie, I just took my original R33 GTR one out of the box that my new nismo pump came in before fitting and with a fair shake it has a dull heavy clunk like motor windings moving inside the armature. Having said that it was working fine. I replaced the pump because of additional fuel requirements after upgrading other parts, PFC injectors, exhaust, pods etc.

Try these guys on Goowwood Rd, Bilstein stockists, do motorsport work and the workshop looks almost as clean as Steve's if thats possible. http://www.kpmauto.com/6.html

Matt31, I have CC-X pads front and rear on my 33GTR. They replaced Race Brake Ferodo DB11 comp3's. I found on the track with the CC-X I can brake later with more effect than with the the DB11's but you only get one grab at them. The DB11 used to take a number of grabs. They have taught me to brake more effectively. On the street they are ok almost from cold given they are more a track pad. The Ferodos were only good for the track and driving there carefully at that. They seem cleaner less dust but what there is of it tends to be stickier. I have white TE37's so I am an expert on brake dust.

The current PSS9 has red coils, with silver base and yellow plastic dust cover over piston. Front units have bump and rebound adjustment on top of the unit. The adjuster is nurled brass with 9 settings. The rear units have bump and rebound on the base of the unit, its plastic and also has 9 settings. Height setting is acheived by threaded adjustment on the base with supplied keyed C spanner. BTW Roy would be the best person to take them of your hands if you decide to remove them. He would look after them and ensure they went to good use.

I bought my my TE37s with Rays durallium wheel nuts. The wheel nut kit came with 2 sockets. One that did 5 of the nuts and on that was shorter with tapered internals that did the lock nut up. Maybe you have the same but the previous owner lost or did not pass on the the right keys. See if u can find someone with the same wheels and borrow the specific allen key wrench you need.

Roy, the bottom set are when the powerfc and boost controller were fitted and no tuning, just the base map that is already programmed. The exhaust was fitted prior to the dyno. P.S I dont know how I have become the Gibson mechanic this belongs to others thrashing out their differences on previous threads. I am am not a mechanic I know nothing

Please tell me it was'nt currie st

I have posted up a 4wd drive comparison, this was prior to the PFC, boost controller, front pipes and exhaust. I agree with dyno results being all over the place but what can u do about it you have to trust someone or something, I am at the point where as long as it keeps going up who cares. I might add I change the oil every 2500km and immediately after a track day and I only use AMSOIL turbo formulated synthetic with an oil cooler. Vven with this the oil temp sometimes hits the end stop. When I do the fuel pump regulator and injectors I will post the results after another dyno run. BTW I still havent had a response to my initial qusetion surely it cant be that hard a question.

No, The blue line represents torque. R31Nismoid - If you read my post I never said the car was completely stock. I agree with you, 280rwkw is not possible out of a COMPLETELY stock car.

This was achived with stock turbs, 3in straightthru exhaust, Pods. PowerFC + boost controller set on stock boost. Thats it. Anyway, back on topic. To the OP, you should be fine without one untill you do other mods.

The car was dynoed at willall racing by Martin Donnan and Peter Hall reasonably respected tuner and engine builder respectively. I will post the graph tommorow. The turbos are stock, please feel free to check with Steve Cramp, Manta Racing, also a respected racing driver, engine and gearbox mechanic of some repute and dabbles in a spot of suspension work. In fact after checking it was 283 rwkw on standard boost. P.S 1. My name is Warren 2. Your Avatar suits you

SK, I have just ordered a nismo fuel pump and regulator "as pictured" along with a set of nismo 600cc injectors to strengten my fuel system and be in a position to upgrade to r34n1 turbos or other low mounts GTSS maybe for track and targa.. I have a standard R33 GTR except for apexi powerfc and boost controller which made 283rwkw post an exhaust change. My question is after fitting the regulator do you maintain the standard pressure as it now "guaranteed" or should you increase it and if so to what pressure.

Last september I put 255 40 17 TT compound RE55s on my R33GTR and got 2 track days plus 660 ks of driving out of them cost $263.00 each, btw TT conpound is the second softest compound. Changed in February this year to RE55 SR medium compound 265 35 18 $326.0 00 and have got 6 track days and a couple of hundred ks so far with about 50% wear. If the ambient temprature is less that 25 degrees the TT were the choice less understeer. Over 25 the SR had a slower melt rate. I run 5.5 castor and 2.0 camber on the fronts. Fronts had 75 degrees inside temp to 85 degrees on the outside after 3 laps of mallala front and rear. I think they are good value for money compared to the dunlop and michelin offerings.

Got a second hand set from my car in the shed in good condition. PM if interested.