xRacerx972

Hey guys, Is anyone else using a water to air intercooler? Looking at a log, im watching my IAT go from 32* to 57* in 5 seconds during a 1st and 2nd gear pull.. Ambient today is 23*.. That seems like a big jump in a short time.. The only thing i can think of is possibly an air pocket trapped in the intercooler.. Maybe someone else has some other ideas? The car is a R32 with Rb25Neo and EMU Black.. Thanks in advance

The block mounting points are the same, the only thing i noticed was the metal mount brackets that bolt to the block pointed forward. If you were to use these, it would jam the rear of the engine into the firewall.. And apparently I spoke too soon.. I got the trans bolted to the engine and the engine bolted to the crossmember.. i just saw that the trans support is a couple inches too far forward and the actual trans bolts are too far backwards.. so ill have to have something fabricated to support the trans that bolts into the standard location.. it just never ends..

Other than that, for now it seems mostly down hill

So I ended up filing a notch in the auto trans bushing and was able to pull it out that way. After some beating the steel rwd pan, i was still having some fitment issues - so I ended up cutting the awd pan and having it welded shut. It was a little bit of a pain, but you end up with a much nicer part than going the RWD sump route. Just some extra info in case anyone else is thinking of doing a similar setup: The AWD sump is a very tight fit with the RWD crossmember and with power steering lines. The "Freddy" intake manifolds are also a very tight fit against the clutch master cylinder and required the forward stud from a series 2 rb head. The forward NEO stud was too short. The HKS manifolds don't allow much larger of a turbo than what I'm using (borgwarner s257 t3). I'm very close to the crossmember with the compressor housing and both power steering lines from the reservoir will need to be moved. I also had to cut the passenger side engine mount to allow clearance for the compressor housing.

Its got the 23U stamp. It was sold as a Stagea engine, but the ECU 23740-cr700 cross references to a Cedric/Gloria. The turbo also had a metal compressor wheel fwiw, which definitely came stock on this motor as nothing seemed to have ever been worked on. Anyhow, Im assuming the 75T block has the mount points I need. If im not mistaken - my series 2 rb25det motor is the 75T block. I guess its time to hack up the AWD oil pan..

Hey guys, so I was reading through different threads, but no one seemed to talk about a couple things: 1st picture: The Awd sump doubles as mounting points for the transmission. If you use a RWD sump, you lose those bottom 4 mounting points as there is no way to mount the two (r33 rwd) brackets to the NEO block (picture 2) like on the series 2 r33 rb25 (picture 3 shows the bracket mount points on r33 block). For those that have converted awd to rwd - are you just not using those 4 bottom trans mount points? Obviously, you could cut and weld the AWD sump and call it a day, but my preference is to not hack anything. 4th picture: pilot bushing for r33 rwd trans shown next to where it should go on the Neo motor, but clearly has a different size pilot bushing for auto. I see people are talking about pulling this auto bushing out, but then what? The manual bushing is too small to fit ? All people seem to talk about is whether or not a RWD sump will fit an AWD block ?

Splitfire coilpacks (6) 195$AUD Ls coilpacks (8) w/pigtails & backets 195$AUD Ls coils are an awesome and easy upgrade, Im using them on my rb25 s2. Picked these up as spares, but dont really need them. Splitfires are in working order. Located in New York, USA. Buyer pays shipping, sold as is. I accept paypal. Last time I shipped an HKS manifold to Australia, it took about 2 weeks.

Power Fc d-jetro (map version) used for 3k miles included: hand controller, 3bar apexi map sensor+harness, IAT sensor + harness, datalogit + accessories. spent over 1600$ usd new last fall - have receipts asking 1300$ usd obo

Thanks for the advice.. I will do just that.. Its hard to start with a clean slate if the slate is not so clean right? Timing will certainly be an area of interest as well, given the base maps timing is too advanced for our **** 93ron US pump gas.. Some day, Ill tune for e85, but for now, I have to stick with pump..

Awesome, thats very helpful.. Ive been reading a lot and am ready to take on the task. I suppose what I was getting at was having a map that I know at worst case scenario will run pig rich instead of something I know will knock and go dangerously lean.. Then fine tuning from there.. Im certainly not opposed to doing everything from scratch, just have to build up the confidence to actually go for it.. Im going to study some more and then just go for it. Everyone has to learn someday right?

Good point.. The only thing Im still confused about and researching is how to calculate a good starting point for WOT fuel corrections. Obviously I cant go WOT on the base map, log, review and make corrections. I would have to make corrections first, then log the results and trim fuel off to bring it leaner and leaner til its safe and efficient. Im just not sure how much to add before I begin.

So just an update in case anyone else ever has a similar issue: IAT signal wire (red) goes to pin 57 (ecr33) You may need to add in a pin as there was not a wire on my harness here. My Mazda IAT sensor kit came with a couple new pins that worked, though it is tedious installing them. IAT ground wire (brown) goes to pin 50 (ecu ground). Tap into this ecu ground wire, obviously don't cut it. Map sensor plugs into the side of the ECU.. Confusing for me since the boost control kit also plugs into the same port on other model PFCs. This is what got me up and running.

I searched and didnt see any related threads.. The datalogit group is limited.. Is anyone sharing maps around here? Im looking for a ~367kw map for a r33 gtst as I assume my setup will make around that much power once I finish breaking in the new clutch and can start playing with WOT tuning.. Im currently limping around on the base map -_- I also have a dyno tuner, but the only shops that are familiar with RBs are 540km away.. It would be extremely helpful.. Thanks

I apologize if you already knew this, but.. The PFC must learn the idle of the car once you first install the unit. What I did was initialize the PFC, configure the injector correction (for bigger injectors), then follow the idle learn process that can be found on the paulr33 site.. if you dont have the boost control kit,make sure thats turned off in the etc menu. Also, it helps to verify your aac valve is clean and operational. I would advise against changing the timing to accomodate the idle as said before, youre making temporary changes to the entire map. After my self-learn process, my car idled at a solid 700rpm. A little low, but fine tuned with the adjustment screw from there, which is also a process, not simply turning the screw. Keep in mind, if theres already a tune saved to the unit, you will lose all of that data by initializing the unit. It will take you back to the japanese base map for a completely stock setup.

Sorry I forgot to mention.. Its drilled for both t3 or t04e.

500usd obo Does not fit my left hand drive car, creates clearance issues with the steering shaft. Buyer pays shipping - located in Austin, Tx Will include wastegate flange adapter if wanted.

The power fc faq link is broken.. Does anyone know how to wire the IAT and map sensor for the d-jetro on a r33 gtst? It would be extremely helpful..

Hey everyone, Im new to these forums, but have again and again referenced the info here.. Anyway, Im in desperate need of wiring info for my map sensor and air temp sensor.. Ive been trying forever to translate my japanese manual with little success.. I have a wiring specialties conversion harness, so the harness is brand new and plug/play for a maf setup.. The tech there told me to wire the iat red(signal) into pin 36 and the brown wire is a ground (to the ecu ground or chassis). When i switched the power on, the iat read -32*f when it was more like +65*f So obviously wiring is incorrect. Any help would be greatly appreciated.