B0oStEr

My thoughts too. I doubt the car could have run well enough to be able to be stolen in the first place.

Have you done this yourself? How do you know the needle is zeroed when you refit it?

Does it have the hicas rack?

R32gtr and R33gtst rotors are both 296mm with the r32gtrs being 32mm thick and the r33s 30mm thick R32gtr and r33 gtst calipers are almost identical and bolt up exactly the same. R32gtst rotors are 280mm x 30mm and the calipers have 8mm shorter mounting legs to suit the smaller rotor.

I swapped a set of grey series 2 gauges into my series 1 instrument cluster instead of the blue ones. Everything is working great except the tacho flickers occasionally. I want to swap the grey face back onto my original blue tacho but I don't know how to remove the needle and refit it in the same position. Does anyone know how this is done?

Grooves don't cause a shudder by themselves. It's most likely they had a bit of run out due to warping. I had a pair of discs machined the other day that looked perfect but caused a shudder. I lost 1mm thickness to clean up the run out but now the brakes pedal is smooth again.

The price list seems to have gone missing from the first page.

Point taken, but do they exist? I think that if you only use factory parts and remove all traces of the hicas system you would never be called on to produce an engineering certificate so you could save that expense. Still 4 stud though, aren't they?

Just thinking of all the r32s I've seen and they seem to either be turbo with hicas and 5 stud or non-turbo, non-hicas, 4 stud. I've never given this any thought until a couple of recent issues. I want to get rid of hicas on my gtst and asked an engineering signatory his opinion on certifying the mod. He said as far as he was concerned he wouldn't pass an unbranded hicas bar and would prefer I use all factory, non-hicas parts. Also, my son's mate wants to do a 5 stud conversion to go with the rb20det swap in his gts. If there is no factory non-hicas 5 stud what is required for a 4 stud to 5stud conversion? Can the 5 stud hub be simply swapped into a 4stud upright?

The sunroof has needed some assistance to close since we bought the car. You needed to hold the wind deflector down for it to close fully. When it started to rain someone who didn't know tried to close the roof without doing this and bent the deflector and broke the deflector hinge. What would be involved in fixing this? Do you need to remove the roof-lining and drop the sunroof down to gain access to the screws that hold the hinge? Has anyone got a spare deflector? Thanks

No issue with the rears at all. I put r34gtt rims on my r32 with stock (280mm rotor) mspec calipers and they hit the inside of the front rims. It's well documented that they won't fit straight onto r32s I had been told I'd need a thin spacer but i didn't understand why until I tried to fit the wheels. The issue is not that the calipers are too far out and hit the back of the spokes as I thought but that they need to be mounted further out from the centre as required for larger rotors. 8mm spacers won't leave enough thread for the full nut to screw on. I fitted 3mm spacers to the front which gave it clearance until I found some cheap r33 calipers and rotors. These give clearance without spacers but it would be better to fit r34gtt (310mm) brakes as the r33 (296mm) brakes give less than 1mm of clearance.

What did you do to rectify the heavy steering?

Last week I bought a genuine pump from nissan for $80.

There might be some differences relating to hicas, non-hicas issues.

What brand is your headunit? Pioneer? Turn off the FIE function as it causes what you describe. ie. lowpass mono Other than that can you find the rear filter switch? What options does it give you? It should be set to high pass, if not turn it off.

I'm a bit confused Do the rears fade out left to right or not? If they are too bassy how have you set the crossover/HP filter? Can you hear the midrange and treble or do they seem to be missing. Is it set to hp? Is the c/o point adjustable? Set hp at 80-100Hz?

If one speaker was meerly out of phase the result would be very little bass resulting in a tinny sound with the balance on centre but when you fade the balance left or right the bass will come back as the other speaker fades out. He said they don't fade the balance at all. Mid_Nite_R33 Regardless of what I think of fusion speakers the problem will be in how they are wired. If you have ditched the factory wiring then the factory amp, if there was one, is out of the picture. Are you amping the fronts from the other two channels? Have you run one pair of rcas for the fronts and one pair for the back or using one pair for both? Do your fronts balance correctly? Do your front and rear fade correctly? Are the two channels you are using both designated as rears? Eg if you were using one front channel and one rear channel and the rca input mode is set for single rcas then the balance won't fade. What amp are you using?

A bit more info might help narrow it down. Are you still using any factory speaker wiring? Does your amp have an input selector switch? If so, is it set to stereo? Other than that, is it possible that you have wired the left pos.and right neg.to one speaker and right pos. and left neg. to the other?

Thanks Dale. I scored one from Totally Imports in Kunda Park. Just a few minutes from where I was staying.

By the strut do you mean the hub and knuckle upright assembly? I don't think it bend in my son's car but it's hard to tell because it's not straight in the first place. If it is bent it would cause all sorts of problems.

My son fitted a third radiator this morning and drove the car 300km home without revving it over 3500 rpm. I had a close look at it and measured all the clearances. When not running. the fan is about 45 mm from the fins and about 30mm from the top tank.It looks impossible for the fan to hit the radiator as everything is firm with no abnormal movement. All the more likely possible causes have been checked and discounted. I think the cause isn't a simple one. The only thing that looked a bit suss is the side clearance between the fan and the shroud is 20mm on the drivers side but is 30mm on the passengers side. Given that when the motor torques against a load it rocks toward the drivers side which would further reduce this clearance. The point where the side clearance is least is the same point where the leading edge of the fanblade has been driven up into the top tank. The theory I am investigating now is whether the fans close proximity to the cowl would create a high pressure area resulting in more severe deflection of the tip of the fan blade. To further this theory the vibration or pulsing I noticed in the fan blades when revved higher might be caused by the blades constantly being subjected to alternate high and low pressure areas as they rotate eccentric within the shroud. Has anyone heard of anything like this before?

My son did the exact same thing to his r32. He broke the radius rod and bent the lower control arm back. It bent the back of the crossmember backward from the LCA inner bush bolt outward. After we straightened it and put it all back together with a new arm and radius rod he refused to pay for a wheel alignment and wore out a new set of tyres in 3 months. When he finally got a wheel alignment he found the wheel was still pushed back 14mm. We fitted another radius rod support bracket to fix it. Even though the old one didn't look seriously bent it was. Compare the LHS of your crossmember with the RHS side to see if it's bent. Get a wheel alignment when your done.

Ok so the epoxy didn't work and I'm staying another night. Where on the Sunshine coast can I buy an r32 radiator on monday morning?

Yeah I replaced the fan and the hub as an assembly twice since the crash. Could someone with a gtst please measure the gap between the timingbelt cover and the top edge of the radiator support panel? Both my son's and my own 32 measure 187mm but Blind elk measured his at >197mm but his car is gts4 running rb25det if that makes any difference.

Both 1st and 2nd fans were free spinning with slight resistance when cold. If lockup would cause the blades to flex into the radiator wouldn't that happen whenever the motor gets hot?