B0oStEr

There has been some suggestion that the motor may have bent mounts or the radiator support panel was pushed back in the original crash resulting in less than stock fan to radiator clearance. Could someone with a 32 please measure the distance from front of the timing belt cover to the back of the fan shroud?

I hadn't thought of that but thinking about it now....... I doubt it because the fan pulley appeared to be running true. I'll have another look at it though as the fan did seem to vibrate a bit as the revs climbed. I had put it down to the vanes deflecting as they start to pull air in.

My son crashed his r32 last year and we rebuilt it. Last week it went to the painters and whilst driving it home the fan went through the radiator when it was given a bit of a rev (<6000rpm). I thought that we must have missed a broken engine mount that happened in the crash so I replaced them. Oddly enough the old ones looked ok. I gave him the radiator out of my r32 and bought myself a Justjap one. As a result of hitting the radiator the fan had a couple of blades bent forward so we replaced it too. I also removed a 13mm spacer that we had put behind the fan to make it clear the i/c piping. The i/c piping was replaced after the crash and the spacer was no longer needed anyway. He had run the spacer for a year prior to the crash and never had a problem even though he thrashed it regularly. We rego'd the car Friday arvo and he drove the car 300km to a mates birthday party and stayed the night. This morning whilst driving around he gave it a bit of a rev (<6000rpm) and the same thing happened again, exact same damage, completely screwed radiator, bent fan, green stuff everywhere. How can this happen? Engine mounts good Radiator securely mounted Fan straight At least 25mm fan to radiator clearance now that the spacer has been removed which is much more than it had prior to the crash without issues. Can a fan blade flex that much or could it be something else?

I have to be back home to start work 8.30 monday morning so i need a second handy from somewhere tomorrow. In case I can't get one in time I'm going to try and bodgey this one up with epoxy putty to get me home but I'd be happier if I could replace it.

I've just got my r32 back on the road last night after 16 months and I've driven it up to the Sunshine Coast from nsw for a mates birthday. There was no trouble on the drive up last night but this morning there is coolant running out of the radiator almost as fast as I can pour it in. It seems to be leaking from between the radiator and the fan shroud. I'm going to pull it out for a good look as soon as I can borrow some tools. Does anyone on the Sunshine Coast have a spare radiator I could buy to get me home?

Floor mats sold to me

The projector type headlight has it's own sub-harness that plugs into a plug on the main loom. This plug fits directly onto the outer beam of the new light but there is no plug for the inner beam. I think I read, on here, where others have wired them to the the foglight so I tried that but they knocked me for rego because it doesn't dip with the highbeam. What have others done that have changed their lights over?

That was me that was talking about rotating the assembly. Don't use the gtr speedodrive, apart from the cost, the shaft is too short to support the gear properly. The part no. of the navara/vl turbo speedodrive is 32702-02G17. It costs about $25 I asked nissan 18 months ago if there was a 32702-02G21 but they said as far as they could tell it didn't exist. Neo32 Claims to have found a 21 tooth gear the hard way but has said recently that it is no longer available and as far as I can find has never quoted the part no. The r33 cog is your cheapest option as you should already have one. Don't drill out the half round hole. The drill will push off and elongate the hole. I did mine carefully with a sharp round file. I did this 18 months ago, the r33 cog is a firm push on fit onto the splines, no glue and never a problem. Have a look at my original post. It's the last post. I hope this helps. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...edodrive+rotate PS Don't forget to recut the slot on the opposite side.

Update: Darron from justjap said the filler necks were mostly billet now. I ordered a Justjap radiator on Wednesday and received it Friday and fitted it today. The filler appears to be rolled but doesn't look like it should have issues. I had to cut an 8mm strip off both side brackets of the radiator and trim the factory cowl so I could fit it. The new radiator is 10mm less in height than the stock one so I had to put 5mm spacers on the top and bottom mounting posts The slightly thicker radiator makes it a tight fit with the factory fan cowl and intercooler piping. I hope my engine mounts are still firm enough to stop the engine coming forward 10mm under brakes.

I bought some yellow Konis and Kings springs for my r32gtst. They were built to specs sourced from Japan and are a bit too firm for a mainly street driven car. I spoke to Top Performance and they said this model Koni could be too firm for Kings springs but they can revalve them to their current spec. It would cost about $500 for all 4 corners. Has anyone here had this done? Is it worth it?

If you turn the gtr cog around it will still be cut the opposite way. Think of it this way, if you turn a left hand thread around it is still a left hand thread, same thing. However you are dead right about the shaft being off centre in the speedodrive body. I don't know what Simon was measuring with his verniers but all the speedodrives have the same offset and the body is rotated to move the cog axis closer or further away, from the driving gear, to compensate for different size cogs. If you change the cog you need to recut a new slot to locate the speedodrive in the gearbox. If you don't do this the gears will run too tight or too loose and will fail sooner or later.

As per title Can pick up Goldcoast. Thanks

sorted thanks

I just replaced the windscreen in my son's 32 4dr I rang around first. Genuine was around $1000 unfitted. Obrien glass have screens with or without the antenna. When I ordered mine the antenna one was about $350, without was $240 fitted I think the coupe ones are very similar pricing.

Nissan should have them and cheap too. I just bought a heap of little clips etc for my 32 and the whole lot only came to $9.

I have found these a little firm for my bumpy local roads so I've decided to sell them and buy something more suited to a daily driver. They would suit a car that sees a bit of track work. They are still on my car and are in good condition. I'd like $450 for them plus postage.

What is the availability on the front and rear r32gtst shocks? Front and rear adjustable swaybars too? Delivery time? Thanks.

Edit oops wrong thread.

I've done a few searches and a lot of people seem to recommend them but others say to buy a name brand one. I'd be interested to hear from anyone that is using them, particularly in an r32gtst. Any fitting or quality issues? An actual pic would be great as the pic on the Justjap site isn't of the r32 one. Thanks.

I spoke to Marco from Top Performance again this afternoon. He confirmed that the original konis for the gtr and hence these gtst shocks were built using valve rates specified by koni in japan and are probably designed to work with springs much stiffer than kings gtst springs. Top Performance can revalve them for me to their own spec for $130 a corner but I'm considering selling these to someone who needs the higher bump/damping rates and putting the money into a set of SKs bilstiens.

If you don't want to cut any holes you will probably need to use the stock hole under the headlight. You can get an r32gtr or r32rb25 intake snorkel, which uses the all of the stock hole unlike the factory rb20 snorkel. Also you can take the nose, that the snorkel fits onto, off your factory airbox as it is made of metal and rivet it to the front of your new airbox in a position that aligns with the factory snorkel. It's up to you if you want to use the gtr/rb25 intake piping that attaches in front of the snorkel. I've thought about using the gtr/rb25 intake section that bolts to the front bar reo and blocking off the intake hole and then plumbing an air scoop into the fitting that used to go to the gtr/rb25 resonator chamber. The thing I wasn't sure about was whether the resonator duct was big enough.

I've put up with these rock hard shocks for 18 months because I rarely drive the car. I never got around to having them revalved because I'm not sure the result would be what I'm after. I have a few unanswered questions about these Koni yellow shocks. I bought them second hand with Kings springs KDFL101 and KDRL102. Apparently they were gtr shocks modified by Top Performance to suit the R32gtst before the specific model Koni for the gtst was made. Using the top spring-seat circlips and the Kings spings the ride height was 310mm and the ride is rock hard. As I said in an earlier post I had new grooves added to raise the ride height and it now rides at 345mm. Why was the ride height so low? Thinking about this the kings springs are only a bit firmer than stock (175in/lb front, 155 in/lb rear) so the bump and rebound rates for the konis must be responsible for the hard ride and would be much too firm for the king springs. If they are designed for harder springs that compress less then the intended ride height would then be higher than 310mm. Marco from Top Performance said they have revalved some of the rear shocks but the fronts were considered ok as is. I think my fronts are too hard and would need revalving as well. Obviously, if the ride height was low because they were designed for harder springs than the kings then they would need to be revalved to suit the kings. Can anyone running koni yellows tell me what springs/rates you are running and how compliant your ride is? Better still if someone has had their's revalved and can tell me the difference then that would be great. Thanks

I'm fixing my suspension because I want to make the car more user friendly so I can enjoy it more often. Over the long weekend I fitted Noltec rear cradle bushes and nolathane adjustable bushes throughout the front and rear suspension to counter the excessive negative camber that was induced when I fitted the koni/kings. Ride height is 345mm front and 340mm rear. My car spent most of today on the wheel aligner and although it was the wheel alignment from hell I'm pretty happy with the measurements we achieved. I fitted adjustable caster bushes and with the adjustment maxed out we got 6.6 degrees pos. caster on the right and 6.7 degrees on the left, a bit short of SKs 7degrees minimum. The factory rear camber adjustment on the upper arm inner bush and the eccentric outer bush will only allow me to reduce the rear camber to 0.8 degrees neg. instead of SKs recommended 0.5 degrees. I decided to fit one adjustable bush on the inside of the rear radius arm so the toe-in could be set without excessively stressing the bushes. The recommended front camber and all toe settings were easily achieved. I want to take it for a test drive but my new tyres are rubbing the rear wheel arch now that I've reduced the neg. camber so I'll have to have the lip rolled on monday.

Now you've got me worried. I fitted adjustable bushes to my upper arms yesterday and I'm waiting to have a wheel alignment on tuesday to set my camber at neg 1 deg with 345mm ride height. The arm looked like it might go close but I thought it would be ok because I had never heard anyone say they had a problem... until now. Come to think of it I thought the suspension felt rock hard when I tried to bounce it. I thought it was the new bushes being really tight but now I'm thinking I may have your problem.

There is no need to undo the hicas piping if you undo the tie rods and the three keepers on the steel pipes the rack will swing out of the way on it's rubber hoses. I zip tied it to the handbrake cable bracket. This saves on mess and avoids potential problems bleeding the system.