B0oStEr

I fitted these bushes to my gtst today The crush tubes in the Noltec bushes are about 12mm longer than they are in the stock gts/t bushes. That spaces the cradle 12mm lower than normal below the chassis. I'm not sure what effect this would have on driveshaft angle or rearend geometry. Apart from not leaving enough thread for the nuts it also makes it hard to refit the support braces for the front bushes I cut the top 12mm off the bushes with a hacksaw and it all bolts up perfectly now.

I got a price today for the Potenza S-O3 in 225 45 17 $270ea

Who uses the factory boost gauge anyway. I tossed mine in favour of the gts volt meter when i fitted my blitz boost gauge. Is it possible to have an optional volt meter/fuel face as in the gts where the gtst has the boost gauge/fuel and the gtr has torque split/fuel? Will it be necessary to remove the needles to fit these faces?

Are they on the lowest height setting in the pic? Do you know the model no. of the konis?

It sounds exactly like my 32 when the alternator was dying. It never brought the charge warning light on but struggled to make 12.5 volts when tested with the motor running. A new alternator and the voltage never goes below 14.2 volts and the hicas light, clunking and heavy steering never returned. I think hicas might need more than 13 volts to work properly. Check your output voltage and be aware that as alternators die they can work intermittently for a while so it might be 14.2 volts for at first then drop to 12.5 volts and your problem returns.

I don't think you can refer to the non-projector lights as 'old style' Both my '89 gtsts are projector and my friend's '93 has non- projector lights.

What gearbox oil are you using? Could it be due to the weather cooling and the oil thickening?

Is it series 2 as series 1 are too short to reach the type m front bar? If it were rolled up for postage would it regain it's shape? Can pick up from gold coast.

I fitted a series 2 type m front bar to my '89 and the guard liner is short so I need one from a series 2. I also need a left side frontbar corner support bracket. Same as the black rhs one in the pic.

See if you can borrow a known good airflow meter and try it. 90% likely to be your problem.

Want to sell?

I have a set of CVpro 17" rims that are damaged. I need a couple of center nuts and maybe a replacement rim. If you have an incomplete set of these rims let me know. Thanks.

I've got one near the goldcoast.

Although the bar needs some mounting holes fixed the main reason I want it plastic welded is to mod the bar for a fmic.

I asked a plastic welder and he said it depends what type of plastic the bar is made from. He said I should be able to see it written (moulded) inside the bar when I take it off. Eg. PP for polypropolene etc but there is no writing inside my bar. Can anyone say for sure what type of plastic they are?

I usually blame the AFM but your problem sounds a little different. It could be a faulty ignition module or coils being affected by heat build up.

What is this? [Greddy RB20DET metal head gasket 1.2mm x 0.020" oversize (87mm) $50.] You can't bore an rb20 to 87mm

I rang you for a quote. Sorry freight is the killer.

I still need the items listed in the first post.

Sounds exactly like a dodgy AFM.

Just a thought. I've seen cars modded so the afm is moved to just in front of the throttle body, ie after the turbo. I guess this would solve the problem of metered air being lost through the bov. Has anyone here tried it on a skyline?

Are these arp2000 or 8740?

Prices?

2 pms sent. No reply edit number received, will call, thanks

manual or auto?