B0oStEr

I can't remember which company it was but the other companies charge it anyway and call it under 18 driver excess or whatever either way the excesses total nearly $3000 for an 18yo driver.

Comprehensive insurance is often not worth it for p platers. My son bought a r32gtst for $10k He priced comprehensive and best price was $3200 premium +$1000 basic excess + $1000 under 25 excess + $750 inexperienced driver excess so he decided against it. After having his car on the road 14 months he had a crash which could have been considered a write off. Everyone told him you should have been insured so he did the sums. 1st year premium 3200 2nd year premium (10%ncb) 2880 basic excess 1000 under25 excess 1000 inexperienced excess 750 Total insurance cost $8830 Also the insurance company would have kept the wreck which he could sell for at least $2500 In this case he is $1330 better off by not being insured.

I had the same trouble with second hand r30 injectors leaking soon after I had them cleaned. Not from the hose but from between the plastic and the metal body. I was told r30 are low impedance and r31 are high impedance. I assumed r31 and vl were the same. If this is the case a full set of vl injectors could be rewired without the dropping resistor.

Same

No need to butcher. If you don't like the tail lights those eastbear covers look pretty cool.

My baby.

Make some discrete inquiries to see if anyone from the panelbeaters could have had the key copied. It wouldn't be the first time.

Without looking at a pic I'd say the dent was always there to clear the cable or something. The hiccup is most likely a minor problem like a fault in the afm. It's unlikely to be a damaged piston or anything to lose sleep over.

It's good to see someone who is prepared to wait and spend what it takes to achieve a quality sound system. I don't think you should look at it from the point of view of adding rear speakers because your sub needs help. In a quality system rear speakers are only there to replicate the sound reflected from the back wall at live venues and the volume should be set below that of the front speakers. Midbass is directional and loud parcelshelf speakers will drag your sound stage to to the rear. To keep the sound stage as forward as possible I would recommend putting the most effort into your front speakers with a pair of 6" speakers in the rear to fill the holes in the parcel shelf. If you haven't already, sound deaden and seal the doors to within an inch of their life and mount a quality 7" driver on a solid mdf baffle and feed it a clean 150-200wrms a side. Then take your car to a quality car audio shop and have your system measured and tuned with an RTA frequency spectrum analyser. This will show if your sub will play up to your front midbass and they could advise you of any subbox tuning changes that could improve your bottom end. This should easily be achieveable within your budget and the result will be worth the effort.

Don't run around for too long without a thermostat or your motor will wear out very quickly.

From my r32gts25 halfcut. Condition unknown but it's done 133000km Other auto bits available eg shifter, computer etc. Free to pickup or might be able to arrange freight for cost plus a small handling fee.

I think if you were to build a trailer from the A pillar back you would have major problems with the balance of the trailer putting excessive weight on the tow bar.

In my opinion voltage stabilisers are unnecessary if your electrical system is in good condition. Revs rise and fall with electrical usage because of increased load on the alternator not because the voltage drops. A stabiliser won't have much of an effect on this. If you run a race car without an alternator then you need something like this to maintain a fixed voltage as your battery runs down. http://www.jacobselectronics.com.au/raceaccuvolt.htm Very pricy but I wouldn't want to try and make one.

Sorry Dennis Those parts have gone. PM sent.

Last chance. The crusher guy is keen to take them away.

Any stock bar or vertex etc. I'll pay freight for the right bar. Let me know what you've got.

heller44 Do you have the castor measurements? I replaced the castor rod bracket when I fixed mine because I had a spare already but I couldn't see any difference to the old one when they were side by side on the bench so I'm not sure if it made a difference. In my case the setback on the left was not as much as was measured in the wheel alignment because the right side was set forward 5mm and the left side was set back 9mm but it was measured as 14mm setback relative to the right hand side. When I undid all the bolts I pulled the castor rod bracket forward as it had been pushed back slightly. I also pushed the front of the left bracket toward the center. I also loosened the engine crossmember bolts and pushed the crossmember back 2mm as it was pushed forward in the crash. When the crossmember is pushed forward it actually pulls the wheel backward because the lower control arm pivots on the castor rod. As I said before nothing moved very far but with everything pushed in the right direction it all adds up. My castor is now RHS 5.4 deg. LHS 5.0 deg. I've ordered nolathane adjustable bushes to get it perfect.

I fitted a second hand r33 turbo box in my r32 and up changes are notchy, especially when cold. Changing back is ok but a bit slow from higher rpm. I think fresh synchros would fix it. Can I buy them cheaper elsewhere than from nissan? While it's apart I might replace some bearings although they're not noisy yet.. Which bearings are the first to give trouble?

Is that a collar fitted in the first pic or is the crank from a '94? Either way it is a bargain as it makes this crank worth $300 more than a normal r32gtr crank.

I don't think nissan give a paint code for motor parts BTW why do people call these rocket covers? Is it a corruption of the term rocker cover which no longer applies since we binned our pushrod and sohc dionsaurs. I think the correct term is cam cover.

This style of manifold seems to be available all over the place. Are some better quality than others? Most are ss304 are they available in ss321? Has anyone fitted one of these? How effective would one be with a 2530 or a highflow?

Gtr ones have a different shape to match the fatter guards on the gtr

No doubt new valve springs are a good idea but are the std rb25de valvesprings weaker that rb20det valvesprings? In the r32 manual they are rated as having the same seat pressure as the rb26 at 24kg at installed height.

I'm still in the rebuild process. Rb26 rods with arp rodbolts and head studs are good insurance. I found a 2nd hand rb26 crank and had the oilpump collar done but the capacity increase (70cc) is minimal for the cost. The capacity with an rb26 crank will be the same as an rb26 with std bore 2568cc. You need rb26 pistons as the pin height is different even though the bores are both 86mm I'm using 87mm rb26 wisecos and the capacity will be 2628cc. The r32 rb25de is just an rb20de with a longer stroke, bigger bore, bigger valves, inlet ports and runners. Everything else is interchangeable. I decided to use an r33 rb25det block so I could keep the piston oil squirters although it's not essential.

quincy777 I had to make exactly the same decision as you. My r32 had equivalent mods to your car but I wanted more. I had planned to go the rb30/25det route but an r32 rb25de accidently came into my possession when I bought a halfcut for panels. I realised I didn't need 300rwkw atm and decided to keep my 2530 and use it on the rb25 rebuilt with forgies and rb26 crank and rods. I can always get a bigger turbo later if I feel the need.