B0oStEr

QUOTE Take the RB20DET inlet manifold off and swap it onto the RB25DET so you can use the GTR injectors. Aren't rb20det and rb25det inlet manifolds a different bolt pattern? I know rb20det and r32 rb25de are the same but I've been told an rb25det manifold won't bolt up to either.

Whoohoo Seems to be fixed.

I sent a few pms then I get this warning and can't send any more. Will it fix itself? Actually I can't post on the forums either. Parse error: syntax error, unexpected T_STRING in /home/websites/93/www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/cache/lang_cache/en/lang_email_content.php on line 185 Third times a charm.

Don't count on these shims stopping high performance pads from squealing I have them with my rb74s and they squeal so loudly people turn around and look.

I just got back from working on this tonight. I found out there is no single cause that is responsible for it being out so much. Its more a case of all the bolts being pushed to one side of their clearance in one direction accumulating error. I loosened all the bolts and pulled every thing forward and tightened the bolts. The set back is now less than half what it was at 5mm. A set of castor bushes and she'll be sweet.

Thats not really what I need to know. Either is a bandaid until I fix the problem that caused it to be out in the first place. I want to know what they are stock so I know whether the right has more castor than it should or whether the right is correct for stock and the left is miles out.

What is the stock r32 gtst castor? How much adjustment do you get with whiteline bushes?

Yes, mine is particularly bad reversing or trying to take off gently up a hill. My centerbearing rubber appears to be in excellent condition but it still feels as though the tailshaft kicks with each shudder.

I picked up my son's r32gtst from the panel beaters and took it in for a wheel alignment. The rhs castor is +5.4 deg. and the lhs is +2.8 deg. but the worst thing is the left front wheel is setback 14mm relative to the right front wheel. Most likely cause is previous kerb damage. The lhs caster rod and lower control arm have already been replaced. I spoke to the panel beater and he said the measurements of all the relevent chassis reference points were within 1mm. This afternoon I spent a couple of hours checking the measurements on a hoist and I cant find a reason for it. The chassis appears spot on but I measured from one bolt that holds the castor rod to the lower controlarm back to a reference hole in the chassis rail just behind the firewall. The measurement was 11mm shorter on the lhs which is consistent with that wheel being setback 14mm. The weird thing is when I measured from the same bolt forwards to the bolt that holds the castor rod bracket to the bottom of the radiator support panel the measurement was identical side to side so that takes castor bush distortion out of the equation. I can't see what has been pushed back, the measurements don't seem to add up. If something is bent I can't see it. I need to pull the lhs castor rod 11mm forward to correct the setback. Would that give me 3 deg. more castor on the lhs to even things up or more than that? There are no adjustments yet, we were going to fit whiteline bushes but they don't have that much adjustment but even if I fitted adjustable rods that's only a bandaid not a fix. This type of damage must happen all the time. What gets bent? Anyone out there sorted this problem before?

Neither car is turbo but I have a factory turbo L6 exhaust manifold for $30 if you are interested. I have a custom set of extractors but they are rusty and have been patched already. I have two L24 motors for parts only.

No my measurement was spoton 1.4mm. My 1.5mm gauge wire was nogo. Do you know what it should be std?

I picked up my rb25det block today. I found the oil squirters were missing. Will rb20det ones fit? I also found the restrictors to be 1.4mm. Is this stock? I thought they were larger. As I'm using the r32 head do I just block the vct oil supply by driving a piece of rod on top of the restrictor?

The reverse light switch screws into the drivers side of the gearbox and by the sound of it yours has worn out. There are two switches on the box . The other is the neutral switch. They cost about $45 from nissan. They are hard to get at as they are towards the top of the box so you may find you need a special spanner. It should only take a mechanic a few minutes to fit.

Sold

wardie I've got one manual radiator but It has been tested and has been sitting for a long time. Andylaurel The r200 has just been sold. I've only got an r180 left.

I'd prefer to do this on a dyno but I'd have to trailer the car 150-200 km to some workshop that knows what they're doing. Is there anyone on the goldcoast that I could trust that are familiar with the pfc?

My 2530 is a bit small for my rebuilt rb25 so I'll swap it for something slightly bigger. Please reply in my other thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=127781

If I find a suitable replacement I'll sell it $1700 If I have to replace my split dump/frontpipe I will sell the matching dumppipe for $400

I doubt you could run the motor with a stock rb20 ecu as it has over 30% more capacity than an rb20. Could you just factor in a 30% fuelling increase into the pfc and see if it starts and immediately check the afr and trim it accordingly?

I have an hks gt2530 kit that I bought to put on my rb20 but I have decided to build an rb25 with rb26 internals instead. It's in excellent conditon and would consider swapping it for a slightly larger turbo. The swap would have to bolt into the stock position. If the exhaust outlet flange isn't rb20/25 I would require a suitable dump/frontpipe combination in exchange for my brand new batmbl ss split dump modified to suit the hks gt2530. This is a great opportunity for someone who regrets going a bit large on an rb20 to make their engine more responsive. I'm only interested in a high quality BB turbo that is in as fantastic condition as my 2530 and I'm prepared to pay a small cash adjustment.

The problem is i live in a regional center and there is nobody with a dyno locally. I would have to trailer my car to the goldcoast or brisbane but I don't know who to trust.

I spent thousands on my r30. Now they have to go. I have two cars worth of r30 parts. Most parts are free but I might want a few dollars for some of the aftermarket and dr30 stuff. I paid top dollar for many of these bits and never got to use some of them. Parts include DR30 struts with brakes, front and rear koni reds (fronts need rebuild), front kings springs $80 the lot. custom strut brace $25 2.25"stainless exhaust, spare genie ss turbo mufflers $30 the lot 4-15x7"alloys $40 crane xr700 ignition module $20 L28 vane afm, rear discs, r30 late front bar with reo, rear bar, 8 doors, 4 with p/windows, electric mirrors, bootlid, indicators, seats, vents, center console, L24 motor, 5speed g/boxes, hatch parts, trims etc. Lots more. You are welcome to pickup an hour south of the goldcoast or I could post items for cost plus a small handling fee to cover my time removing, cleaning and packaging them. Special deal if you come and take the two cars I won't charge you a single cent. Come on guys, this stuff has got to go in a couple of weeks and I'd hate to see it go to the crusher.

With the new motor I'm going to run 440cc injectors and z32 afm although these could be fitted after it's initial run in. Shouldn't I do something to the tune before I even turn the key? Would it even run with the rb20 tune? How long does it take to run it in on the dyno? It sounds expensive at $120+/hr

I'm pretty sure mine will need a tune as I'm going from an rb20 to a 2.6litre rb25

I'm going to replace my rb20 with a refreshly built rb25. How do you go about retuning the Powerfc and running the motor in at the same time?