B0oStEr

I'm replacing my rb20 with a rebuilt rb25. I know my hks gt2530 is on the small side for this motor. Is it pointless fitting 256 or 264 cams without getting a bigger turbo?

I fitted a cushion ceramic button clutch and from day one it 's had a shudder. It's accompanied by a thud under the car. I've been told a slight shudder is normal but the clutch builder has driven my car and said there is something wrong. My mechanic has checked my engine mounts and rear cradle bushes and nothing is broken. The only thing we can think of that could be causing it is the tailshaft centerbearing rubber mount but it too seems to be in good condition. Would a one piece tailshaft fix it or does the problem lie elsewhere? Has anyone else had these issues?

It's all relative. 5 degrees more advance will help but an rb20 is always going to be sluggish off boost The main reason an rb20 is laggier than an sr20 is because it has such a short stroke. Is your M's afm 100% compatible the the stock ecu? Maybe a remap would help.

My r32 was quite laggy when it was stock. It didn't really improve with a fmic and 3" catback but I got improvement once on full boost. My car is a manual but my son bought a stock auto r32 and it was much less laggy. I thought it must be the gearing or torque convertor but when we converted it to manual it was still less laggy. I think it is because the auto ecu is programmed to run 20 degrees initial advance where the manual is programmed for 15 degrees. You can't just advance the manual to 20 degrees because you will be running 5 degrees too much advance when you come on boost. I suppose we should have swapped ecus to find out but I'm building a 2.6L rb25 and running a pfc now.

Bump

So at what point do people find the need for sump mods on a rwd rb engine? Anyone blown something up because they didn't have them?

I'd like to hear from anyone running hydraulics lifters and a stock rb20det pump that has blocked the rear off and run a 1.5mm restrictor in the front as per SKs table. Do the lifters rattle at idle? No other problems?

I can get Performance Springs rb25det valvesprings for $220 if they fit. What is the difference between rb25det and rb20det springs?

Sounds exactly like detonation to me especially the "sounds like metal" part, actually everything in this post screams internal destruction.

Both rb25 and rb26 have an 86mm bore std. You will find an r32 rb26 crank if you want one bad enough but the asking price has doubled since nissan ran out of new r33 cranks. By the time you fit a collar to it you might spend over $800 for an rb26 crank. There are a lot of mods that will give you more power for your $800 than 70 extra ccs.

Didn't the collar come with fitting instructions? The interferrence fit is critical.

A gtr crank will increase your capacity by 70cc or only 2.7% if that makes the decision any easier for you. This is the difference between the R32 gtr and R33 gtr cranks. Note the longer flats on the r33 gtr crank on the right.

If you have already bought your pistons you have to use the crank that suits them. eg. if you bought rb25 pistons you can't use the rb26 crank because the piston will stick out the top of the block about 1mm. The crank collar is a good idea but not essential. If you are going to the expense of a new n1 oilpump then I'd definately do it.

I didn't use a jun collar. I took my r32 gtr crank to an engineering workshop and got them to machine the nose down and heat shrink a 4140 moly sleeve onto it. They then machined it to r33 gtr specs. They charged me $169 all up for everything but prices elsewhere could vary. They can get most of the measurements they need from the r32 crank before they machine it down. You just need to tell them how long to machine the flats. If you go for a jun collar they still have to machine the crank and heat shrink it on.

You must use an rb20 gasket nothing else will fit. Have you checked the price of an rb20 head gasket from Nissan I priced a genuine gtr rb26 gasket and it was only $77 If the genuine rb20 gaskets are more than that I'll sell you one for $70. Pm me if you are interested.

Found an aftermarket one(no ariel) from National Auto Glass Supplies through my local windscreen place for $250 fitted. Different to coupe (taller and narrower) Part No. DN 2377

Just after I bought my R32 the oil guage dropped to zero. I was so happy to find out it didn't need a rebuild I didn't mind forking out $250 for a genuine sender.

Windscreens O'Brien are the only local windscreen place and they say they can only get one from Nissan japan. I rang the local nissan and they said it would cost $940 from them then I'd have to get it fitted. They said the part number was different to the coupe but the didn't know if that was just tint colour or some other small difference. I did a search on here and found some guys have been able to buy non genuine coupe screens without the ariel for about $200. Is there a chance these could fit the 4door?

I want a bare rb25det block and cradle in good condition. Bore condition isn't critical as I'll be boring it to 87mm. A low km oil pump would be a bonus. I can pickup from Goldcoast or Brisbane

Where can I order them from? I only saw the 1.5mm restrictor listed but it could be an old catalogue Note the comments about use with rb20/25 at the bottom of the linked page. e114_RB_oillube.html

I'm building an rb25 with rb26 internals for street and occasional track. Oil retention in the head at sustained high revs leaves little oil in the sump and is a well known problem for all rb engines. I intend to enlarge the oil drain holes in the head and smooth the entry to the holes so the oil can flow back to the sump better. I'm not sure what diameter they open them out to though. I'd like to see pics of this job completed before I do mine.

I did search but the results were limited to the first thousand results

I'm about to screw my new engine together and need to sort my restrictors. I've done searches and read the recent threads here but there seems to be some highly regarded workshops and engine builders recommending against blocking the rear or going too small as it can affect the operation of hydraulic lifters. On the tomei site it says their 1.5mm restrictor is unsuitable for use with hydraulic lifters and I have found referrences to rattly lifters and even cam journal failure attributed to too much restriction. I have no doubt some measures need to be taken to control oil supply but doesn't blocking off the rear seem a bit drastic. Any feedback from people who have experience running modified restrictors with hydraulics would be much appreciated.

Anyone using a Hi energy sump on their rwd rb? I can't see myself parting with $900 to get one but I doubt the stock sump would be good enough if I take my car to the track. Are there any mods I could do to the stock sump or pick up to improve things? Pics would be great.