B0oStEr

It seems as though you are doing something similar to me. I just bought the bits I need to build an rb25 with 87mm rb26 wiseco pistons stock rb26 rods and rb26 crank. To use gtr rb26 pistons you have to use a gtr crank. If you're using an rb25 crank then you can use the rb26 rods with rb25 pistons. I was going to buy 2nd hand rb26 wisecos with rb26 rods but with new rings it would have cost nearly as much as new pistons. I bought new wiseco pistons, cometic head gasket,acl race bearings and arp rodbolts/headstuds for a very good price Boring 87mm shouldn't affect block strength too much and I'm not worried about leaving material for further rebuilds as 2nd hand rb25 blocks cost a lot less than forgies.

I guess your apexi bov is not plumb back. The flutter you get from backing off at low boost is because your bov doesn't activate due to the spring tension being set high. The air that the bov would release if it was working backs up and gets chopped by the compressor wheel making the flutter sound. When you back off from higher boost there is enough pressure to open the bov to let the air out. The trouble with letting the air out is that the air is already measured by the afm and the ecu has sent fuel for it which makes it run too rich and causes the motor to stall.

All doors complete less interior trim. They are in good condition with grey paint with a few minor handling marks. These doors are complied so they already have the intrusion bars fitted. Front doors $120ea o.n.o. RHS Rear door $90 o.n.o. I'll consider selling mirrors, locks, power window bits etc seperately. I can arrange cheap freight to goldcoast and brisbane areas.

Cheaper from nengun

Are Performance Springs valvesprings any good or should I use hks, tomei or something else? They only list valvesprings for rb25det and rb26. Will the rb25det ones fit my r32 rb25de which is the same as rb20det? Does anyone know what the difference is?

I'm not concerned about leaving material for further rebuilds because second hand rb25 blocks are cheaper than new forgies. I'm using ACL race bearings 6B2960H std, 7M2394H std as my crank measured well within stock tolerances. I don't know if upgrading valve springs will really do much to raise the redline because I think the redline is limited by the hydraulic lifters. That's not to say the heavy duty springs are a waste of money as they are necessary to control the valves with more agressive cams.

The guy at the machine shop said my rb26 crank is forged steel. I don't know for sure but he seemed to know whay he was talking about. The only prep I had done was a oilpump collar, linishing and a balance but I'm only aiming for half that power.

Get yourself a gtr crank and the gtr pistons will fit perfectly

For now I'll just be running my hks gt2530 for about 220 kw. It should make that power at about 16-18psi If I upgrade it will be to a larger low mount and cams for about 300kw I set the limit at 7500rpm

I was ordering parts today for my RB25 rebuild When I ordered ARP rodbolts and priced the headstuds the guy reckoned I'd be mad not to do the mainstuds as well. Keeping in mind I'm on a tight budget I was wondering at what power level you would have trouble reusing the stock main bolts or head bolts for that matter?

I bought a power fc a while back but decided to wait until I build my 2.6l rb25de before installing it. I have a boost solenoid from an avcr and although it doesn't have the pfc boost controller loom I've been told it will work with the pfc although I'm not sure how to hook it up. I've been told by someone who should know that in the r32gtst the pfc can use the factory map sensor to read boost so you don't need the sensor from the avcr. When I was still using my factory boost gauge I noticed my peak boost dropping a few psi over a period of months. Then I installed a good Blitz gauge only to find my boost 'jump' to 12psi from 7psi on the factory gauge. Would that be a lazy map sensor or the gauge itself. How can I test the sensor output?

Thanks for that. I think his words were his supplier couldn't supply them. I also tracked them down on the arp site. Part no. 202 4301 I'll see if I can find them cheaper than UAS.

I'm building an rb25de engine using an rb26 crank and rods with forged pistons. I'm going to use arp rod bolts and had intended to replace the headbolts with arp studs. I spoke to my engine builder today. Apparently arp don't make rb25 11mm headstuds but he can drill and tap the block for rb26 12mm headstuds. He wants an extra $300 or so to do this plus the studs, just when I was looking to shave a few dollars off the cost of this project. Does anyone else make upgrade headbolts or studs for the rb25? How dodgy would it be to reuse the stock bolts and save $600?

I have never seen a manifold listed as fitting both. I've never checked for myself but I've always believed they are different.

What made you think it needed cleaning. If no dirt came out of it then chances are there is a fault somewhere else. AFMs can be tested by checking the resistance between pins but I have found this unreliable because the problem is almost always dry solder joints between the pins and the circuit board. Dry solder joints typically give an intermittent fault so may test fine then play up when you refit it. Then again the problem might have nothing to do with the AFM.

Wiseco say deck 0.5mm with 1.2mm head gasket will give 8.25:1 My gasket will be 1.3mm How much can safely be machined off the deck? I'm not keen on taking much off the head. Would machining deck/head retard cam timing significantly?

Wouldn't these also fit an r32 gts/t? What type of bushes do they use?

The staked unijoints are replaceable if you use a die grinder to remove the stakes. Replacement joints are available at about $75 ea trade. They use circlips inside the yoke to retain the caps. Unfortunately they use a smaller trunnion than the stock unis so they probably wouldn't be as strong. A custom one piece would cost less than a full 3 uni, center bearing rebuild but if it's only one crook uni they are a cheap fix.

I've heard good and bad things about most brands of forgies. I'm sure for my moderate application they all would be ok so I guess it really comes down to price and JE and ACL seem to be a few hundred cheaper than the others unless I'm not looking in the right places. Any suggestions?

Yeah I'm a bit concerned about going 2nd hand. 5000k might be low ks but it's a lot of 10 second passes. I'm not looking for huge power and stock pistons would be fine for my current needs but the motor was n/a so I need other pistons to lower the compression ratio and to raise the pin height to accommodate the rb26 crank. I considered buying 2nd hand stock rb26 pistons and running them in the original bore but as the block doesn't have the oil squirters I was advised to use forged pistons or at least have the stockies ceramic coated. Although the bores are quite good I'd feel better with a fresh bore. I'm planning going 87mm straight up. I'm not worried about leaving any for a further rebuild as 2nd hand blocks are cheap. How good are the JE pistons?

I can buy new ACL for $1100 or JE pistons for $1200 or second hand Wiseco for half that but when you factor in new rings it's not such a big saving. Can I buy them at a better price elsewhere or look at some other brand?

Quick search reveals all. http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=703 Are the stock turbos .48A/R or .42A/R

T3 2510 compressor housing is .6 exhaust housing is .64 Not sure of T25 but I don't recall it being different.

A lot of people say 2mm o/s is risky in the std block especially for big power. Without working it out I'd say 87.5mm would give you around 2660cc and 88mm almost 2700cc. There's an 88mm kit on ebay selling as a 2.7L kit.