B0oStEr

GTR or GTSt?

Is the block from an r33 rb25det and have oil squirters?

I need a factory bonnet for my gtst but would consider a gtr one at the right price. Can pick up from Goldcoast/Bris.

Here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=118450

These have been sitting here for quite a long time. Now I need the space. One complete stock 2.4l manual sedan. The hatchback is front accident damaged and has some aftermarket and import bits. Konis/kings, s.s. exhaust, late RS taillights, RS brakes, R200 3.9:1 open diff, turbo exhaust manifold and lots more. $500 for both cars and all parts. I'm not interested in wrecking them but will negotiate any deal which involves the removal of at least one car.

It could be a lot of things but my money is on the afm. The pins are soldered to the circuit board. These solder joints get broken by wriggling the plug to disconnect it.

JUN'R32 pm sent NathR32 No indicators, sorry

Sorry, this car has digital climate control. No slide.

Dale and Impul pm sent.

Lismore about an hour south of the Goldcoast.

Sorry, sold it with the console surround.

Sold to ZigenGt

Sorry, it's not available as I need it along with a lot of the front bits and pieces to repair accident damage.

Leave email address by pm and I'll send pics of items of interest.

Already got 3 offers of $150 sorry.

Hi I have an apexi rev speed meter forsale. Comes with connector plug and wiring. It does 0-100kph 0-400m horsepower reading etc. Asking $180 if anyone wants pics pm your email address to me and ill get them to you asap. Cheers Craig.

Just stripping a halfcut we bought for parts to repair accident damage. I'm also keeping the motor, for now anyway but there are plenty of bits left over. All parts are standard 1992 R32 GTS25 but many are the same as the R32 GTSt Both front struts $40 pr Rear struts (springs and shocks, no top mount) $30pr Front hubs (4stud) complete with upper and lower control arms and tension rods $85 a side Brake calipers (single piston) and rotors (4stud) $80 the lot Alternator (looks so new it must be a recent replacement) $80 Power steer pump 2WS complete with reservoir $50 Front power steering rack with tierod ends $120 Brake booster and master cylinder $65 Clear fog lights $40 pr Starter motor $40 Exhaust manifold (non turbo) with heatshield $20 Wiper motor $25 Speedo cable (auto) $25 Airbox with piping to throttlebody SOLD Throttlebody with TPS $50 Radiator overflow bottle $15 Stereo brackets and din pocket wth flip up lid complete with free original cassette deck SOLD Dash center console (body) $20 Center console trim (stereo and gear stick surround) SOLD Glovebox lid $20 Dash panel above driver's knee with fuse cover $15 Footwell side panels $10 ea. Auto shifter assembly $20 Rb25de ECU (auto) $50 Auto Transmission (5speed) complete with torque converter and tailshaft yoke $100 There is also a myriad of modules, relays, plugs etc Just ask and i'll see if I can find it for you. Further parts from 1989 R32 GTSt Motorised front spoiler lip $40 Std intercooler $30 Std catback exhaust (very clean) $50 All parts appear to be in good condition for age and are believed to be working.

Ask Muaythailuke what he thinks

My question about oil pumps was mainly to determine what pumps fit the r33gtr crank as they have a different drive collar for the pump gear. Do I need an r33gtr oil pump or will an r33 rb25det one fit? I intend to close off one of the oilfeeds to the head and open out the oil return galleries as suggested by SK and others but I need to find out more details about this mod. It should lessen demand on the oil supply so pump volume is probably less of an issue. With regards to the cams, being an r32 rb25 head the rb20det cams will fit but I read the rb25de inlet cam has longer duration but less lift (I think) I think because they were designed for a turbo application the rb20det cams would be the safest bet but I'm wondering if the extra inlet duration could be beneficial if dialled in correctly.

I was going to replace my rb20det with an rb30/25det but now I'm considering using an rb26 crank, rods and pistons in the rb25de motor that I bought for the head. My reasons for this are that I like a motor that will still rev and my hks gt2530 and the std diff ratio should still be suitable and it will still look stock under the bonnet. I've got all the bits from my rb20 buildup 2530 turbo, 3" turbo back with split dump and metal cat, fmic, sf coils, ap eng. pfc, z32 afm, gtr injectors, 040 fuel pump I know this turbo is limited to about 220rwkw or so but it should make this with less boost than the rb20 I expect this motor would make full boost 800-1000rpm before the rb20 although I expect boost will start to taper off earlier by a similar amount. Just a few Qs What compression ratio would this combo give? Of the stock cams are the rb20det cams the best or should I use the rb25de inlet cam with an adjustable gear? If I use an r32 rb26 crank will the rb20det oil pump be suitable? If I use an r33 rb26 crank what oil pump would be best to use? Should I fit the piston oil squirters? Any comments on this combo welcome.

Gordon go back to post #8 and click on the link to my old thread on this. It should help you sort it out.

It's fairly clear the van driver was at fault as he turned right in front of an oncoming vehicle. That won't help us get any money though as it appears this guy lived in the van and has stuff all assets. How much could you expect to get for an R32GTSt sedan with a demolished front? I'm guessing not enough to clear the $3500 he still owes on it. Whether it's worth repairing or not will depend on the cost of repairing the chassis. We will do the stripdown and put it back together as well as prep it for paint. The parts will cost $1500ish, new FMIC kit $500, paint $1000 but I'm having a bit of trouble finding someone to even quote the chassis repair.

I put some on my R32 4door. The fronts will need 3mm spacers to clear the std 4 spot calipers. They clear R33 brakes so I swapped mine over. The silver rims looked a bit plain on my silver car so I painted them gunmetal grey. It looks much tougher now and brake dust doesn't show.

Is there any difference between the radiators of these models? What about their AFMs?

I don't know if the bulbs are available from Jaycar. I bought mine from a shop that repairs tvs and stereos ect. It's fiddley threading the wires through the rubber holders. Don't pull the wires tight as they will cut the rubber to bits.