B0oStEr

My son crashed his r32 into a van that turned right in front of him. The van driver has no insurance and my son only has third party so we need to repair the car on a minimal budget. The LHS inner guard and radiator support panel have been pushed down to the chassis rail back to the strut tower. The rail is not radically bent but twisted by the deformed inner guard. The strut tower rearward appears to be unaffected but would require careful measurement to be sure. I've unpicked and replaced radiator support panels before but have never tackled an inner guard, strut tower or chassis rail before. How much would it cost in labour to have a professional unstitch the rail, tower and inner guard at the firewall and replaced with a cut including the radiator support panel? Would it be acceptable to do the cut from the tower forward? Is it possible that the mangled inner guard and rail could be pulled and beaten straight? Any help appreciated

The items you refer to as leds are in fact tiny bulbs that you can buy from an electronics store.

If your steering wheel is as good as it looks in the pics I'll take it. No marks?

bump

FYI The auto and manual use the same g/box crossmember. The holes are 50mm further back in the auto floorpan so you need to make a pair of brackets to fit an R32 5 speed. R33 turbo 5 speed bolts straight into R32 auto.

I left the auto ecu when I did my conversion. It has more low down grunt than my original manual. I was told it is because the auto ecu uses 20 degrees base timing where the manual ecu runs 15 degrees.

My old thread when I did this. There was a more comprehesive thread but my search failed to find it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=91245&hl=

I also need a LHS rear door

Is it switched over to blow on the windscreen/feet? I don't think it's supposed to blow hot air in your face.

Don't connect 12 volts to the illumination wire. If your new headunit has an orange wire that is it's illumination wire. The function of the illumination wire to the stereo is to dim the stereo display when the headlights or parklights are on. A lot of people mistakenly use the car's illumination wire for the earth when fitting an aftermarket head unit. The car's illumination wire tests as common to earth but turns 12 volt when the lights are turned on because it's wired common to the dashlights. What did you wire the black earth wire on the new deck to? If your stereo still works properly with the headlights on then this is unlikely to be your problem. You may have just forgotten to reconnect a plug or something like that.

Did you wire in a new stereo while you had it apart? It probably had an illumination wire that might now be hooked up incorrectly.

I need most front end parts to repair accident damage. Bonnet, hinges/catch, f/bar, bar support, headlights, indicators, radiator support panel, radiator, engine fan/shroud, a/c condenser, thermo fan etc. Will buy as job lot or seperately. Can pick up Goldcoast/Bris. or pay freight. Let me know what you have.

I'd like these but by car is a series one so I don't know if I can fit these without changing to series two taillights. Where does the indicator go? Series one indicators wrap around the corner and these covers don't have a cutout for them. Are these genuine Eastbear?

Could be a boost leak. Check your IC hoses.

I need a turbo to dump gasket to suit HKS2530 on an rb20 with a split dump. The factory gasket is no good as the wastegate isn't seperated from the turbine outlet like the 2530 is. Who sells HKS gaskets?

Nissan quoted $880. My local auto electrician sourced it from somewhere in Melbourne for $360 plus freight. It has nissan stamped on it as did the original but no sticker with the nissan part number but apart from that they are identical. If you want I can try to find out the supplier and their part number but they don't sell to the public.

They can be cleaned with carby clean but from my experience if they are just dirty they don't read as a fault. I opened mine up by cutting around the outside of the sealant that seals the top panel then prying it out. You'll see a metal sheild under the cover. Unsolder it and remove it. The problem with mine was where the pins from the circuit board were soldered to the pins in the plug socket the solder had cracked. I heated each joint with the tip of my iron and added a small amount of solder. I resoldered every joint on the back of the board just to be 100% sure but I doubt this was necessary. Solder the sheild back in place and reseal the cover panel back in place with sikaflex or silicon. This fixed my missing, stalling and unsteady idle problems Good luck.

I just fitted a brand new alternator tonight and now get a steady 14.2 volts. I think my old one may not been working properly for a long time Ever since I've owned the car it's been plagued with flat batteries and hicas light problems as well as the occasional misfiring. I only spotted the charging problem after fitting a volt meter. There was never any warning light. I guess the alternator was just making enough charge to keep the light from coming on but not enough to keep the battery from going flat. I think low battery voltage might even have been the cause of my full throttle lean out. I know it can make the fuel pump weak. Can it affect AFM readings or shorten injector pulses enough to lean it out?

My R32 alternator has died and I'd like to replace it with one from a later skyline or a higher rated new one that will be a straight bolt in. Mine is Hitachi and has 23100-59S01 LR180-705B on it. I've been told it's 80 amps. I can't get the parts to reco it. Are the R33/34 ones compatable? What other options?

I'm pretty sure my hicas problems are entirely due to my alternator allowing the battery to go flat. I want to confirm this is the most likely cause. I'd like to know where to look for the intermittant drain on the battery when the car is garaged. How many amps are the rb20det alternators? Is it easy and an upgrade to fit an alternator from a later model rb?

The first I knew I had a problem was when I lost the power steering on a corner. I looked at the dash and the hicas light flickered on. When I left it idling there was this clunking solenoid sound every few seconds from under the bonnet and the hicas light kept flickering. I noticed the voltmeter was reading low, just below 12 volts, so I gave it a rev to see if it would bring the volts up but it wouldn't go over 12.5 volts. The charge warning light didn't come on but surely it must be a problem with the alternator. I swapped the battery for a charged one went for a drive and the hicas light didn't come on at all. I went to drive the car after two days and the battery was dead flat. Even though the alternator is weak it shouldn't have gone flat so after recharging the battery I put an amp meter between the negative battery post and the negative lead terminal. With everything turned off and the fuse removed from my stereo it was drawing 2.5 amps which is about the same as leaving your park lights on. I started the engine to check the charge rate and it wouldn't get to 13 volts across the battery terminals. I turned the engine off and checked it again with the amp meter and this time it was only drawing 0.1 amps which is about normal. Does anyone know of an intermittant fault that would cause 2.5 amps to be drawn from the battery with everything switched off? What is the highest rated alternator available for the rbs? Are they expensive to rebuild? Does low voltage cause hicas/ps problems?

Check that the ignition/efi still has 12volt when the key is released from the start position.

Just order a new one from nissan. The plastic one would work better than a metal one anyway.

I bought a second hand GT2530 (rb20/25 bolt on) and it came with a dumppipe gasket which appears to be stainless steel but as it has been used some of the pressed sealing ribs have been squashed flat. I got a new factory gasket but it is for the factory turbo and the wastegate and turbine outlets are combined where the HKS outlets are seperated for a split dump. Do I need to buy a new gasket from HKS or can I reuse the old one with some sort of sealant? Who apart from Nissan sells all the other exhaust gaskets for the RB20?

I just bought an all in one split dump/frontpipe. The all in one design allows the wastegate pipe to be much longer than the HKS style split dump and separate frontpipe combo. This is supposed to reduce turbulence therefore improving the flow. Some say that the all in one bellmouth type can make more power in the top end than either of the split types when running high boost but not everyone agrees with this. Do a search and make up your own mind.