B0oStEr

It can't hurt to get a second opinion. It wouldn't be the first time a tyre fitter got it wrong. If they are stuffed you might be able to buy a serviceable pair from a wrecker for $150 or so.

Yeah, it looks tough but 70mm ground clearance and 4 degrees of neg. camber ain't easy to live with so up she comes.

Thanks SK I spoke with Steve from Kings. He got me to check part no. on konis. He said the part no.s were for an R32GTR or GTS4. Funny because they both have a bushed bottom end, not a fork. They must have been reworked but the paint on them looked genuine. Steve said the easiest fix would be to machine a circlip groove for the spring platform higher up on the shock. This will also give me some preload which was non-existant before. I had to use thinner bushes under the tophat just to capture the spring which took another 8mm off the ride height. I'm thinking if I get new grooves cut 25mm above the current ones it will raise the car 25mm + 8mm if I go back to the thicker bush so 343mm front and 348mm rear. Do you think this will get me out of trouble?

I fitted a pair of kings lows to my r32 gtst and they dropped it over 50mm from stock. Gaurd to wheel center height is now 310mm at the front and 315mm at the rear. That is using the highest settings on my konis too. I think they must be super lows but the tags say KDFL101 and KDRL102 which are the correct numbers for lows. Can anyone using kings lows on an r32gtst please tell me what height you are running?

It could be faulty afm/s. Our gtst idled up and down, sometimes stalling after a run until we pulled the top off the afm and resoldered the pins to the pcb. We also found the solder that holds the metal shield under the lid had broken and the loose shield may have shorted out some components. Next time it's playing up give the afm plugs a wriggle and see if it changes anything.

I was looking to buy a passage a year ago. I checked out quite a few $2500-$6700 and one mint black one with new 18"s in a yard, $9990 on the windscreen, salesman said I could have it for $8k, $7k if I had my own wheels. I found the ones for private sale were usually overpriced, totally unrealistic where yards were more in touch with the market with tidy examples for $4990. Some private ones had shocking rust, wobbly windows, ripped rubbers, too rough for a yard but still $5-6k Ended up buying r32gtst instead for $9k.

I'd check that because I sent my pair of r33 gtst front rotors, auspost, from northern nsw to sydney for slotting and it cost me $12 and rears are lighter. I'd think $20 should go close to covering it.

I'll take them if you can post to 2480 for $120 all up. PM me with details. Thanks

I've seen a couple of gtst lips on yahoo jp but I haven't seen one here. Please pm me if you find a source as I want one too.

It seems to me like a good way to get rid of the useless factory boost gauge. Surely someone has done this before?

Do you have the stock R32 gtr intake air ducts ie. all the pipes, resonator etc before the airbox.

Please note that the cluster I'm looking for is from a '89-'90 non turbo gts and has a voltage gauge instead of a boost gauge.

As above. I don't really need the speedo or tacho, just the case and volt meter.

Have you changed anything that would cause the speedo to be out? Tyres maybe? Does it read higher or lower than the actual speed? What diff ratio does the RSFour use? What is the stock tyre size? eg. 4.11diff 225/45/17=20 tooth pinion 4.36 205/55/16=21tooth pinion

Now that I've got an aftermarket boost gauge the factory one in the instrument cluster has to go. Do the '89 gts's have blue gauges with a volt meter where the boost gauge is in the gtst. Does anyone know if the gts volt meter will work in the gtst cluster or if I need to use the gts cluster? If so will the gts cluster plug into the gtst instrument loom? An instrument wiring diagram might help me sort it out if anyone has one. Thanks.

If you have a multimeter check the ohms between the two pins. When cold at 20degree C it should read about 2500 ohms. Personally though I'd still suspect afm issues. Intermittent afm problems seem to be a common thing.

I don't think manuals have a reverse beeper. On the r32 the reverse beeper is part of the shift lock module. All skyline manual reverse switches appear to be the same but come with different plugs on them for each model. The one for the r32 cost about $25 from Nissan. The r33gtst 32005-21U10 one costs about $40

The front of the pulley appears to wobble because there is a triangular plate on the front of it. If the idle drops when it's on then the clutch windings aren't burnt out. Depending on how bad the compressor noises are I'd say it's the most likely problem although mine rattles and whirs a bit and it still works well. If you've had the centre console off lately make sure the cabin temp sensor hose was reconnected to the vent and the wiring plug was reconnected. Mine was accidently left disconnected and the a/c only blew hot air until it was fixed.

Thanks Both those values are on the line on the R30 chart so I guess they are the same.

All the bolts are 10mm x 1.5 pitch. The main 4 bolts are grade 9T. All the others are grade 7T. The length depends on what g/box you're using.

My r32gtst blows black smoke when cold but by the time I get the afr checked the engine has warmed up and it tests perfect. The mechanic said it could be a faulty coolant temp sensor so ecu thinks it's minus 20 degrees C and gives too much cold start enrichment. Does anyone know how many ohms it should read at say 20 deg.C for a cold start in morning? Better still a chart showing ohms for 0-100 degrees? I have such a chart for an r30 but I don't know if it's similar for r32.

If the Z32 afm looks mint with intact mesh and working 100% ok I'll take one. Thanks Craig.

I think the numbers in black are just serial numbers so no two should be the same. If the numbers across the top of the sticker are the same then it should do the same job.

I've read a lot of threads on this. My conclusion is that either afm would work for 200rwkw. I'd probably buy a z32 afm later but have been forced to decide now due to the stocky failing. The main point of my thread is to find out how well the pfc will function with the z32 afm on it's base map until I can fit my new turbo and 444cc injectors and have it fully tuned.