B0oStEr

I need to buy a new afm now as the one I have now is playing up. I'm about to fit a gt2530 turbo, pfc, gtr injectors and 040 pump to my r32gtst, however not till after christmas. I'm chasing 200 rwkw give or take. It seems pointless to me to replace the afm with a stocky but some people seem to make this power without changing to a z32 afm. If I buy a z32 afm now and fit the pfc and select the z32 option will the map run the car satisfactorily without an immediate tune?

Is it missing the receiver dryer?

Have you checked that you don't have a blown fuse?

More likely than not the hose from your plenum to the map sensor (small black box located top drivers side of the firewall) has cracked or fallen off and the whistle you hear near your headlight switch is probably boost escaping from the leak. If the hose has fallen off or split at the end cut 15mm off it and pop it back on or replace it with some new 3mm vacuum hose. The headlight switches are a bit unreliable . They can be pulled apart and cleaned but it's very fiddly with springs and tiny parts inside. I did my switch and I also bent the internal contacts slightly to compensate for wear and it's been reliable for a couple of years since.

Should work properly but doesn't. New 900kg pressure plate with cushion ceramic button clutchplate. I only realised how heavy this clutch is when I drove my honda again. It felt like it had broken a clutch cable. Slave and master diameters are stock, 3/4"slave 5/8"master, same as r33. It feels a bit rough through the pedal. It sort of catches a couple of times as you push the pedal to the floor. It makes a twangy clunk noise. Even though everything else has been double checked and working properly this pressureplate won't go over centre. It's only disengaging half way. There must be something wrong with the geometry of the combination of component used to assemble it. It's going back to the clutch place first thing Monday to see what they have to say. BTW A bigger master cylinder is going to be heavier.

This is a gearbox conversion hence the new clutch and slave cylinder. I had my mechanic (brother) check it out this morning. Apparently it was already bled correctly. I've got 14.5mm travel at the pushrod. Is that factory spec.? The pedal height was right but I lifted it 10mm so I can drive the car. It's not a fix though, more like a bandaid My brother reckons the problem might be in the new pressure plate assembly. While it's important for the pushrod to be the correct length a longer pushrod won't usually net more travel because it will only push the piston further back in the slave.

I've just fitted an r33 turbo g/box and heavy duty ceramic clutch in my r32. I've bled the clutch to the best of my ability and I have a firm pedal. The pedal is heavy and feels about right for 900kg but it gets progressively heavier all the way to the floor without the over centre easing of the effort I'm used to. It is difficult to engage any gear from neutral and it crunches on gear changes. The clutch takes up fast as soon as I lift my foot even 1mm. It's obvious the pedal is not pushing the slave cylinder far enough for it to fully disengage the clutch and go over centre. The master cylinder functioned without issue with the previous gearbox and clutch. The slave cylinder is from ecr33 and has 3/4" bore and was reconditioned prior to fitting. I've bled all three nipples but could there still be air in the dampener loop? I've heard these can be hard to bleed. Does anyone know how far the slave cylinder is meant to push?

Why do you want more pressure? Is it reading low? The factory gauge is notorious for playing up.

I just did an auto to manual conversion. The shift lock is only for the auto. It locks the car in park until the ignition is on and your foot is on the brake pedal. Transmission control is auto only. I guess when they did the conversion they left some of the unused wires to short out and blow your fuses. If the reverse lights worked since the conversion I put my money on it being a worn out reverse light switch in the g/box. It's very common. They cost about $25 from Nissan. If you've never had them working then they may not have been hooked up properly when the conversion was done. Check the neutral position switch as well. I've been told if it's not working the car thinks it's in neutral and retards the timing. Both switches are on the drivers side of the box and look the same. The rear one is the neutral switch and the front one is reverse. I posted a thread on how to wire these. Of the wires that went to the auto box the green wire and the thinner of the two black wires are for the reverse switch and the white and the same black wire are for the neutral switch. They all plug into the cluster of connectors mounted on the side of the fusebox under the bonnet. Just make sure the right wires are hooked up to the right switch. The beeper is part of a module called shiftlock controller On the auto I converted this module was mounted on a bolt that is used to mount the clutch pedal box in a manual so I disconnected it and threw it in the bin. No problems. Get rid of it. While you're under the dash check that the clutch switch is wired up. If it's not, there is a plug for it taped to the auto loom just above the clutch pedal. The clutch switch helps to stop the car from stalling when you clutch on the overrun or during gear changes. This is often overlooked during conversions. Hope this helps.

Make sure the blocked cat was not just a symptom of running too rich otherwise the new cat could suffer the same fate.

Isn't this type of thread against the rules? Anyway $1000-$1700 for a viable unit depending on condition and whether it has actuator, lines, elbow etc

The cheapest way to put a cable speedodrive in the RB25DET box is to use Navara speedodrive part no 32702-02G17. It is very similar to the R32GTR speedodrive and only costs about $20. Both these units require modification to work properly. It requires some basic tools and skills. There maybe a speedodrive available that bolts straight in but not at this price. The Navara speedodrive comes with a 17 tooth gear that you'll need to remove and replace it with the red 20 tooth gear from the rb25det box electronic speedodrive. For an R32 with the stock diff and tyres the ideal number of teeth is 21. I estimate the 20 tooth gear will read about 105kph at 100kph but would be closer if you're running larger tyres. You need to punch out the rollpin so you can pull the shaft out of the Navara assembly. Use a hacksaw to cut along both sides of the 17 tooth gear being careful not to scratch the shaft. It should pry off. Remove the circlip and pull the red gear from the electronic speedodrive. The red gear located on a flat spot on the end of the shaft Use a round file to make the hole in the gear round. Be careful not to make it sloppy on the shaft. Support the red gear and drive the Navara shaft in until the splines press all the way in leaving about 2mm of shaft sticking out the end of the gear. It's a tight fit so it should stay put. Care needs to be taken to make sure the gear will mesh correctly with the wormgear inside the box. You will notice the shaft is slightly off centre in the assembly. Nissan rotate the assembly to compensate for the difference in diameter of the various gears they use. Depending on the gear diameter they cut the retaining slot in a particular location to secure the assembly at a certain rotational position to achieve the correct gear clearance. For the 20 tooth gear on the Navara assembly you'll need to cut a new retaining slot exactly 180 degrees opposite the original slot. I cut the slot with a hacksaw and cleaned it up with the edge of a small file. You need to be accurate here. Put the shaft back in the assembly and drive the rollpin back in. Check that it has about half a mm of end float. Now it should be ready to go in the box.

I've just done one and it runs fine on the auto ecu.

I just fitted the r33 slipyoke to the r32 manual tailshaft using a hardy spicer unijoint. I can see what the guy meant about the replacement joints not being as strong as the original ones. The cross piece in the centre is not as thick as the original. Has anyone had trouble with the replacement joints failing?

I was just wondering at what power level does the factory tailshaft start having problems?

Search found nothing. As this doesn't appear to have been discussed much I assumed the tailshafts are pretty strong. I'm doing an r33 box into r32 conversion and have to change the slipyoke over. One shop I went to said they never replace the staked unijoints and I would have to have a completely new tailshaft made. They said the factory ones were weak anyway and that the replacement unis were even weaker. How much power can the stock tailshafts hold? Is a one piece better or do they have other issues?

A heavy duty clutch will just help you destroy the box more quickly.

I don't know about the r32gtst manual tailshaft being too long. I know the slip yoke is wrong. What I intend to do is remove the front unijoint and put in a new one using the slip yoke from the rb25det box. My measurements show this assembly is actually 9mm too short but it will still be ok because the slipyoke is very forgiving.

Actually I've been told to get a complete tailshaft assembly in good condition to avoid the need to have it rebalanced. Again, let me know if you've got one. Thanks

It seems the auto tailshaft is too short for my rb25det Gearbox conversion and I'll need the front half of a manual tailshaft. Condition not critical as I'll use a new joint. Let me know what you've got. Thanks

I'm using an r32gtr speedodrive. Will an r32gtr cable be short enough?

I did this job last weekend. Did you get the wiring loom with the manual box? The wires for the reverse switch are green and green/white Connect these to the green and thinner of the two black wires in the auto loom. The other two wires from the manual loom are for the neutral switch . Connect these to the white wire and the same black wire that the reverse switch uses. Did you join the inhibitor wires? On the outside of the fusebox there are two rows of connectors. Pull the bottom plug from the outer row These are the thick black and brown wires in the auto loom. Cut the wires and join them together and replace the plug.

I fitted an rb25det 5 speed into my r32. Now the speedo cable is 265mm too long. Can I get a shorter one from another model or get mine cut down.

I swapped the 5speed from my r32 into my sons R32 auto. We tested the neutral switch and found it didn't work at all. I've been told you don't need it but someone said if the ecu thinks the car is in neutral it retards the timing to reduce emissions. Does anyone know if this is true? This might explain why my car was very doughy off boost.

I bought a second hand R33 turbo gearbox and the shifter was disassembled so I just received a handful of parts. It's obvious where most of them go but I have an extra circlip and the shifter seems sloppy up and down. I'm not sure if I've put it together incorrectly or I didn't get all the spacers and bits it needs. Does anyone have an assembly diagram or pics of one apart? Thanks