B0oStEr

Thanks Dave I found that spiggot sleeve thing. I got it out with a slide hammer. I pulled the selector switch apart to find out which wire did what. Yeah the thick brown and thick black wire are definitely the inhibitor wires. As best I can tell the reverse switch uses the green and the thinner of the two black wires and the neutral switch uses the white wire and the same black wire. Just as well you don't need a neutral switch because the one that came with the new box doesn't work. What does it do anyway?

I'm changing an auto r32gtst over to manual. I snipped the wiring loom where it went to the transmission when I removed it. All the wires go back to the connectors on the side of the enginebay fusebox. I need to join the necessary wires to the loom that came with the manual box. Has anyone got a wiring diagram so I can pick out inhibitor, reverse, neutral switch etc? Thanks

What was the gaurd to wheel centre distance with these?

Does the cat affect air fuel ratio readings if it's measured at the tailpipe? Since I put a catback and fmic my r32 seems to run rich until it warms up. It blows a little bit of black smoke on accelaration and stumbles a bit at intersections for the first 5-10 minutes after a cold start so I had it checked out with an air fuel ratio meter. The mechanic used a hand held meter with a hose to the tailpipe. He said the mixtures were fine but the motor had warmed up by then. He did a full power run and the AFR was 12.9 which he said was OK for stock boost but from what I've read on these forums I thought that was a bit lean. Does the cat burn the unburnt fuel and make the afr reading leaner than it would be if it was measure before the cat?

You could give All Clutch & Brake Service a call on 08 8277 8122 They have sussed out the generic equivalent for heaps of import clutch and brake parts. I bought a brand new clutch master cylinder from them a couple of weeks ago for $63 + freight to me and I think the slave was even cheaper.

I just asked local nissan guys. It's just listed as connector and they don't know what it does. It must do something, maybe it dampens vibration but then you'd think they'd call it a damper.

I've noticed a box that looks like a distribution box in the clutch line of my r32 gtst, one line in, one out and another that goes toward the back of the car does a U turn and comes back. Why is it there and do I need it for my other car I'm converting to manual?

Damn, that's different to mine Thanks anyway

Any chance of a front on pic?

Nah 5 speed or bust. Thanks anyway

This transaction didn't take place here but as all the boxes were Skyline I thought some people here might be in the same boat As far as I know the seller involved is not a member of SAU.

I paid for a box but it never turned up. I have reason to believe I'm not the only one. Has anyone one else had this happen to them lately? I don't want to go into details here. PM me so we can compare notes.

R33 gearbox lost so I need another one.

What do these fit, gtst coupe, 4door, gtr? Any pics of what they look like on a vehicle?

How come the block in the pic has rb30 written on it?

The correct one for an rb20 will have a 6 bolt flange for the dumppipe.

Provided you buy the t3 flange model with an rb20 kit it will be a 100% bolt up.

My 2530 arrived this morning and the HKS actuator that came with it has a softer spring than my old rb20 actuator. How do you set the actuator rod preload? My rb20 actuator rod had about 3mm ie the rod was 3mm shorter than the distance from the diaphram at rest and the pin on the closed wastegate arm but my 2530 came set up with about 6mm of preload. Is there a proper method of setting this up?

Do the HKS actuators have options of different spring tensions? I guess mine has a 7lb spring as I believe the RB20 actuator has a 10lb spring. I plan to run at least 15lb boost. How important is it to keep the relationship between actuator tension and the boost setting to a certain margin?

My 2530 came today and I was checking out the HKS actuator that comes with it. I noticed that the spring is a lot softer than the stock rb20 spring. Would I be better off using the rb20 one? When the actuator arm is adjustable is there a specific method for the correct adjustment of the wastegate preload?

So it isn't just my computer.

OK, so the bit in the manual with injector sizes just shows you how to calculate trims? eg. 270cc / 440cc =.6136 Will it cope with that until I get a full tune? So the MR30 dropping restistor (6.8 ohms) will do the the job with the pfc and gtr injectors?

I can't see any difference . Have I missed something?

So the MR30 dropping resistor will do the same job as the GTR one? I measured one I had lying around and it was 6.8 ohms. Doesn't the R32 gtst power fc have 440cc injectors as an option on the injector menu? Does that mean they anticipate people using GTR injectors as an upgrade? I can't read my Jap manual so I can't tell what they consider safe impedence. I'd sure hate to toast those transistors.

Will the shocks work just as well with my kings springs lows? Are the rates and lengths compatable?