B0oStEr

Why does it blow smoke when the knock reads high? My car has started blowing black smoke when it's cold. Can't say what the knock levels are as I haven't fitted my pfc yet. What goes wrong with the CAS and how can you diagnose it?

Thanks champ, some more details would be great. Is your service manual a book or CD?

I'm about to fit an bosch fuelpump and I'd like to know how the factory system works before I try to improve or bypass it. What components are involved in it's operation and where are they located? ECU pinouts? TPS? resistor, relays etc A circuit diagram or a link to a manual that covers it would be great.

Skyline model = R32GTSt 4door Wheel diameter = 17 Wheel width = 7.5 (R34GTT rims) Wheel offset = +40 Tyre size = 225/45/17 Modifications to fit = R33 GTSt front brakes or a 3mm wheel spacer

The factory oil pressure gauges often have a problem with the sender and read low or erratic. Get someone to check the oil pressure with an accurate screw in gauge.

Has anyone tried to fit an aftermarket boost gauge where the factory gauge sits in the instrument cluster of an r32 gtst? Can someone please post a pic of the back of the cluster so I can see if it's possible? Thanks

When I bought my pads from racebrakes the bloke made a point of telling me to bed them in hard. This is the opposite to what I've been told to do to bed in normal pads. He told me it's to bring the resins to the surface of the pad so they can coat the rotor. He said do ten or so >100kph to 30kph hard applications until they smoke then drive normally until they cool down. I did this tonight after fitting the new pads along with new slotted rotors. The trouble was even on a country road opportunities to perform the required stops safely were too far apart and although I could smell the pads I'm not sure I got them hot enough. The brakes seemed to work great even from the first stop and seem to function normally now they have cooled but how can I be sure they are bedded in properly? Should I repeat the proceedure somewhere with less traffic?

I put R34gtt rims on my 32 sedan. I think coupes have a bit more clearance in the rear. They are 17x7.5 +40mm 225/45/17s tyres They are a perfect fit but you need R32GTR/R33 gtst brakes so the calipers can clear the back of the wheel or you can use a 3mm spacer. There are plenty of 17s that fit over the stock brakes though. From looking at the clearance I have with the gtt rims I'd say for 8" rims +25-30mm offset should fit. For 9"rims +15-20mm should clear at the rear but might rub on the inside at full lock on the front. To keep it legal though your offset needs to be within 12.5mm of stock as you can't change your track width by more than 25mm without having it engineered.

I can't confirm this but someone posted that you can bolt the r33 manual in the place of the r32 auto. Has anyone done this? I've also read here somewhere that you can use an S13 crossmember to bolt up the R33 manual box into an R32 manual. I don't recall whether it was an auto or manual crossmember.

I'm about to do this conversion myself. I'd be very surprised if the coupe and sedan are different but I believe the crossmember mounting points in the auto are different to the manual so I'm expecting to need to make a custom crossmember.

What car? gtr gts4?

I was looking at two HKS GT2530s for sale. One tag said BA 6256 J GT2530-63T 446179-21 The other said DD 0148 J GT2530-63T 446179-21 Because the rest is the same I'm asuming that the BA 6256 J and DD 0148 J are serial numbers and the BA one is older. Can anyone confirm this?

Is it an electric or mechanical gauge?

6500klms is very low. Is this from an R33 or R34? Push or pull clutch?

You say the turbo has been rebuilt and hasn't been used in australia but has it been used since it was rebuilt? Where was it rebuilt?

I took it for a short drive this morning and it's a much smoother car to drive. Before I put the plug into the switch the idle would come down in steps when I stop at the lights 1400, 1200, 700 over 5-10 seconds. Now it drops straight to 700 and stays there. It has also fixed the problem of the revs dropping too low during gear changes especially on the overrun when the fuel cut operates. I've owned this car for nearly three years, I can't believe I didn't pick this up sooner. One thing that puzzles me though is that the way the plug was tucked into the loom looks as though it was factory so maybe it has been this way from new. Have a look guys and see if your clutchpedal switch is connected and let me know.

Have you got pedals, clutch master cylinder/ lines, inst.cluster and gearboot surrounds, etc? PM me Thanks

I doubt it is possible as I doubt the crank and rods would clear the block. If they did the rod angle and ratio would be far from optimal. Poor torque and high piston speed.

While I was typing my previous post I was thinking what sensors might cause a problem. It occurred to me that the car should have a clutch pedal switch. I went out to the garage to see it my r32 had one and there was one but it wasn't connected. I looked at the loom that was near it and I found a plug tucked back into the loom. The wires reached the switch and it plugged straight in. I don't know why it was disconnected but it looked deliberate. Now I want to test drive it and see if I've fixed my longstanding crazy idle problem but I'm parked in for the night. I'll check it out tomorrow if I get time.

I've put in an order for a gt2530 for my rb20. I was expecting the gt2530 would be a little more responsive than that. What rpm does it start to build?

I wouldn't 'T' the wastegate actuator off the carbon canister hose because the line is very long and also reads boost from the manifold side of the throttlebody. I think you should keep the line on the fitting on the compressor cover. I think the HKS actuator should be able to hold .7 bar and it should have an adjustable length arm. I'd look at the adjustment to see if it's loose. If that's ok have someone check the actuator spring tension. If you want more boost get a boost controller don't plumb your actuator to a weak indirect boost signal like the canister purge line.

Have you adjusted the AAC valve? When the motor warms up remove the maroon plug from the AAC valve. Screw in the adjustment screw to set idle at 675rpm. If it screws all the way in and the revs are still above this then you have an inlet leak. Is this "1 under the throttle body" you refer to the 'air regulator' that is mounted on the manifold runners below the throttle body. It's job is to increase idle speed until the motor warms up. I would have thought this a likely cause of the fast idle as these often stick open and allow too much air to bypass the throttle butterfly. When it warms up try to pinch the hose going to it and see if the idle slows.

Think about this A tidy R32GTSt $12000 RB26 halfcut $6000+ R33 GTST G/box $1500 Custom driveshaft $500 Labour to fit and wire $2000 easy even if you do most of the easy stuff yourself. If you want an RB26 I'd be looking at R32 GTRs for $22-25k

I put a HCR32 fujitsubo exhaust on my r32 4door and it is a perfect fit. Tip length is spot on. You can't beat the jap stuff for fit or finish.