B0oStEr

Your joking right? Since when has any blow off valve ever made a single KW. When your joking give us a hint some of the noobs might think you were serious and go off and waste $300+.

The stock R33 gtst is rated 187kw @ the FLYWHEEL

I'll give you $200 for it and you can keep the gearknob.

So poeple will take pictures of it and post them on the internet

Thanks 1400r Kansai sold the 2530 but it was for an s13 so I might contact them to find out what that garrett is. dinzlr Sorry, I definately want to keep the stock appearance. B-Man I might consider a high flow but gcg want more than $1500 for a BB core one.

A few people have reported having difficulty placing the bosch 040 fuel pumps low enough in the tank so as not to run out of fuel before the tank is empty. I'm concerned that the pump will suck air when the fuel sloshes around the tank when cornering. Years ago I saw an article in zoom magazine about a dyi intank swirlpot where the fuel return empties into the pot. I can't remember the details but I think it used a pickup tube and external pump. Do people still use these? Do they work ok? Would it work with an intank pump like the 040? Has anyone got plans for one or a link to a tutorial?

I'm planning to build either an RB25 or 30 using the R32 RB25DE head. If I bolt my RB20DET plenum to the RB25DE runners at what power level will it become restrictive enough for it to be worth changing to an aftermarket manifold?

I got my 2530 Thanks guys

I need a flywheel with bolts and an R33 clutch slave cylinder. Any auto to manual conversion bits could also be useful. R32 GTR speedodrive too. If you've got a good clutch let me know but I was going to buy new. I can pickup from Goldcoast etc

Ok, I've got an R33 g/box coming. I need R33 slave cylinder and R32 gtr speedo drive in addition to most of the parts listed in post #3. I no longer require driveshaft, starter motor, ecu, gearknob or speedo cable. Let me know what you've got.

How accurate is the speedo likely to be given the R33 has a 4.11:1 diff and the R32 has 4.363:1? Wouldn't the speedo read about 6% higher than your actual speed? What can be done to remedy this?

That thought had crossed my mind but I doubt they would miraculously start to run perfectly again though. I've got some splitffire coils and new plugs to put in on monday anyway, just in case. Even though the ecu diagnostic didn't log a fault my money is still on it being an intermittant fault with the afm. The afm that's on my car is thought to have caused similar problems on our other skyline. The afm was repaired after logging a fault code but after it was repaired the other car still had a lesser intermittant problem so we swapped the afm with my car. In six months it hasn't caused any problems, well until now.

Ha ha about 4 months ago when I changed it but I check it regularly and it never uses a drop. I checked it after the problem started and it was exactly on the top mark.

What is the advantage of a one piece shaft over a two piece? So is the navara speedo drive 32702-02G17 the whole assembly? The navara speedo shaft is splined and the r33 gear is keyed, so you glue it on? Doesn't the navara shaft being shorter than the r33 shaft, affect how the gears engage?

BH_SLO32 So you used the 33 yoke and fitted it to the r32 manual driveshaft by putting in a new unijoint? Most people have said they had to cut and shut the stock driveshaft. My car is a manual but I was going to swap driveshafts with someone who is doing an auto>manual conversion using my old box so is his auto driveshaft going to be too short? I read on one of the threads that the auto cross member fits the R33 box in a 32. Can anyone confirm if this is true? Does anyone know the Navara speedo drive part no.?

Black as, but all clear now. Before it cleared up someone said I might have done a turbo seal and be pumping oil through the inlet so I pulled the i/c piping apart but it was as clean as new inside. If a turbo seal went on the hot side it wouldn't have much affect on how the car runs,would it? That smoke would be blue wouldn't it. What colour smoke does synthetic oil burn? I don't think it could be oil anyway because it's clear now.

Is there a bolt up option or do I need a custom shaft? I'll get the r33 driveshaft nose with the box Are the r33 manual and r32auto splines the same? Is the r32 auto driveshaft suitable? If it doesn't bolt up is it long enough to cut and shut? What about the speedo drive? My r32 is cable. I read a navara or gtr one fits. Does anyone know what model? Part no.? What gear do I use on the end of it?

It wasn't perfect before but it's practically useless now.

funny thing I started it this morning and drove it around 100% ok. I figure because it's intermittent the problem has to be electrical. Now I can't trust my car because the problem will recur, probably at the worst possible moment. It's going to be hard to track down until it comes back though.

Does it come with outlet elbow? How many k's?

I got a light and the i/c piping looks ok. All the clamps are tight and the piping has beaded ends so I doubt it's leaking. I swapped the AFM with our other skyline months ago because that car had stalling problems but it hasn't played up on my car at all until now. Why would the hard run cause it to malfunction? I'll swap them back in the morning and see if that fixes it.

I took my r32gtst for a drive tonight to try out my new g-tech. After running a quarter I slowed to turn around and the car stalled. I restarted it and headed home. It drove ok and still made boost but every now and then it felt like something was holding it back like someone pulled the handbrake briefly. When I got to my driveway the idle revved to 1800rpm then dropped to 300rpm, then revved to 2000 rpm then dropped to 200rpm then it stalled again and when I tried to restart it it was very sick, missing badly and wouldn't run. After several attempts it started and ran just well enough to drive it into the garage. It was blowing heaps of black smoke and smelt like firecrackers. In the shed it idled ok. No smoke while it was idling but blew black smoke when I gave it a gentle rev. I then ran an ecu diagnostic and got code 55 AOK I gave the motor and intercooler piping a once over in bad light but couldn't see a problem. If the i/c piping had a leak wouldn't it run lean off boost and rich on boost. If it's a leak it seems strange that it won't run one minute then idles near normal (slight miss) the next. I hope i haven't broken any thing expensive.

Is it from an rb25det?

R32GTR non vspec rotors are 296mmx32mm and calipers are similar to R33 gtst which uses 296mmx30mm rotors. These wouldn't be a serious upgrade. I looked into using the 324mm rotor on my r32gtst A bloke from Race Brakes told me the r32 gtst calipers require some material to be removed from where the edges touch the 324mm rotor for them to get the whole pad onto the rotor. He also said that calipers made for larger rotors than the 280mm gtst ones don't leave enough room for the 324mm. caliper mount adapter spacer. I don't know if this is true for the supra spacer though. Check out the brembos as they will go over the 324mm rotor The r34gtt 310mm rotor and caliper combo might be worth a look.