B0oStEr

Yeah, geordie, I saw that thread but I think it ended up costing him 2,500 plus. WHITE R32 If I find the other bits I'll get back to you. Thanks

I have a set of 4 No room to store, must go. As new $700 o.n.o. Could personally deliver to Brisbane or Goldcoast or arrange freight elsewhere.

What turbo?

Considering the need for every nut and bolt I think my best bet is a half cut. I'm keeping your parts in mind in case someone offers me a package minus the bits you have. I don't want to rush out and buy all the main bits and then find I still need dozens of small bits of little value that noone could be bothered looking for.

LHS kickpanel.

Thanks for the pic. That is a better look at what I want. Which one is the front air duct? The flat one? I'll PM you if I need you to send them. Thankyou

I could pick up from Bris. or GoldCoast.

Even when I find a box it's all the little things you need that make this difficult. Not having been through this with a Skyline before I can only guess what is required. My list so far if anyone cares to comment. Gearbox/ bellhousing bolts/ g/b crossmember/ mount/ brackets?/ coverplate?/ clutchfork/ release bearing/ nuts and bolts etc. Flywheel/ flywheel bolts/ spigot bearing/ pressureplate and bolts/ clutchplate/ slave cyl. and bolts/hyd. lines/ master cyl./ pedalbox with nuts and bolts. Gearstick boot and surround/ gearknob/ instrument cluster surround. Speedo cable/ loom for reverse light switch, inhibitor switch bypass, gearstick position sensors. Manual ECU Tailshaft Starter motor? Anything else I've overlooked or maybe something I've listed is unnecessary. Anyway let me know if you have any of these bits for sale. Thankyou.

I'm still looking

Edited 5/10/05 I need an R33 box with yoke as the one I ordered and paid for never arrived Also require clutch lines to finish the job.

Good tip buddy . I'm sure heaps of people have this problem as I've had a few people tell me about a fuel smell. Just one thing though, I don't think heater hose is safe with fuel. It might be better to spend a few dollars on fuel safe hose.

My car had a very similar problem. Diagnostic showed a 12 fault. Then 55 It turned out to be the AFM. You can dig the sealant from around the cover on the AFM and remove the cover. Inside there is a circuit board. My AFM had a dodgy connection between the board and the pins for the plug. It was soldered up and it fixed my stall/splutter problems 100% Reseal the cover with black sikaflex or silicon. Your long/fast warmup idle is probably caused by a worn/faulty air regulator. It can also cause fast idle and idle speed hunting problems. Do a search on it.

When I bought my R32 it had a 108kph+ speed alert ding dong thing that could only manage a ticking sound after I wore it out on the freeway. Just a thought.

What ratio is the auto diff? I think the tallest R180 ratio available is 3.54:1 but I don't know where you would find one. If you ever have the L24 gearbox open drop in a set of overdrive gears from an L20 box. It gives you a very tall overdrive ratio and doesn't make the car sluggish in the lower gears like a taller diff does. I had this gearset in my old L28 powered R30 and it drove very well. I can't remember the exact revs at 100 kph but I think it was about 2600rpm with a 3.9:1 diff.

Is it off 33 or 34? What bits come with it, lines, dump, elbow, actuator? How many k's

bump

If you're changing the plugs, when you have them all out turn the motor over on the starter and observe to see if any water comes out the plug holes. I hope it doesn't.

The stock intercooler pipes aren't plastic. They are painted steel. Obviously the pipe from the turbo to the cooler will be hot. If the other pipe is getting hot you could thermal wrap it.

I've been fitting my 600x300x76mm Hybrid cooler into my type m over the last couple of weeks. I made my own piping from 60mm aluminium tube with seven 90degree bends. It cost me $170 for the tube plus $120 to have it tig welded together. The cooler fitted up behind the bar support nicely but I needed to cut some metal out to get air to the top half of the cooler. I also cut in a pair of N1 ducts The piping didn't hit the fan but it was a bit tight around it so instead of cutting the fan blades I machined a spacer to go between the fan pulley and the fan giving the piping 12mm more clearance. When I was cutting the bar plastic I found it hard to get clearance around the piping near the inlets and outlet reducers as my early type m bar angles back more than the later bars. For me this was the most time consuming part of the job. I'm lucky to have access to all kinds of tools. I used a jigsaw and air hacksaw to cut out big bits, a small woodplane to dress the straight edges and a die grinder with metal burr to tidy up the corners. It took me about 4 hours but I didn't want to cut too much off so I trimmed it several times until I got a perfect fit. Now I need to get the bar painted and polish the pipes. I'll see if I can post some pics when I'm done.

What does ported to a 2.6 mean?

It should come with eight of everything. I asked for the sj6070 kit but they said there was no stock but they had the protex kit in over night. I paid $54 including inward freight plus postage to me. It came as a kit for one caliper but they sent me a second kit no charge as they quoted it as axle set.

I think some dr30s had the 258mm rotors as I bought a complete dr30 rear-end with a open r200 diff and 258mm rotors.

I've rung a few places and they have either crushed them with a stripped front half or won't sell the ducts without the airbox for $175 Can anyone point me in the direction of a business that might sell them? I prefer gold coast, brisbane but would postage from anywhere if the price was right.

bump

You may need to bleed the air out of the cooling system. The bleeder is on the front of the plenum.