B0oStEr

Aren't they the same as the GTSt with a GTR horn button?

I'm going to the Goldcoast tomorrow and want to know which wreckers are worth a visit as I'm chasing a few bits for my R32.

The AAC can only control rpm within a limited rpm range, more like fine tuning. Most of the additional air the engine needs during warm up is supplied by the air regulator. It's mounted under the throttle body on the inlet runners. It has a hose in from before TB and a hose out to the inlet manifold as well as an electric plug and it allows air to bypass the throttle body during warm up. If it sticks open you get a fast idle but if it sticks closed it'll have a slow idle or stall when it's cold.

If it is just a noisy belt and you squirt it with a bit of water it should stop squealing until it runs dry. You could find out which is the noisy belt by wetting one belt at a time.

I just had a look at your tutorial and must commend you for helping others out. Just a couple of things you might revise. How it works: It uses an electrically heated bimetallic strip to rotate a disc that opens a hole that allows air to bypass the throttle body to increase idle speed while the engine is warming up. I wouldn't recommend adjusting the throttle body idle screw or TPS unless they have already been tampered with as they are set in the factory and rarely need adjustment. If there are no inlet air leaks or faulty air reg. or bov etc, a functional AAC should control idle speed if it's adjusted correctly. This can be done by disconnecting the AAC plug then screw the adjustment in to slow the idle down or out to speed it up. Idle should be about 675rpm. Reconnect the plug and let the ecu control the idle.

eXc When you pulled it apart was the centre pin out? When I put my pin back in it was too loose to hold so I drove a thin punch up the hole in the back of the pin to expand it to make it a tight fit in the hole as well as using loctite 601. Your spring probably fell off but it looks alright in your second pic.

What parts do I need to fit GTR centre console gauges into an R32 GTSt? Gauges, climate control?, stereo brackets?, anything else? Where can I get the necessary bits in Brisbane? What do they go for? The climate controls look similar but it's mounted below the gauges in the GTR so they might have different mounting lugs on their cases. Would it be possible to mount aftermarket 52mm gauges in the GTR tripple housing for a factory look? Can someone please post some pics of the GTR gauges and climate control out of the car or with the console surround removed? Thanks.

Nylon compressor wheel? What does it say on the comp. housing? Can you post pics?

Roy Could material be removed from inside the r32 caliper so it would fit over the 324mm rotor further? Has anyone tried to fit the R34 GTT brakes to the R32 GTSt?

To suit?

Have you checked your air regulator? It's located on the bottom runners of the inlet manifold, below and slightly behind the throttle body. They have a disc inside that is rotated by a bimetalic strip that is heated as the motor warms up. When cold a hole in the disc passes air around the throttle body. As it warms and the disc rotates the hole closes and the revs drop. In my car the pin the disc rotates on fell out and the disc stayed open causing it to idle at 1600-1800rpm. I put the pin back in with some loctite and the idle went back to 650rpm.

dj I guess the dyns you are fitting are the mw160gt. I'd like to see how they fit as I tried to fit some to my 32 and concluded there wasn't going to be enough clearance behind the factory doortrim at the top of the grille once you allow 8mm for cone excursion. I'm sure a man of your experience will have noticed the quadrant gear that invades the space behind the speaker as the window winds up.

Size?

Offer withdrawn, sorry. GL with the sale.

I'm fitting an aftermarket boost gauge and was going to disconnect the factory one but I'm not sure if will affect anything else. On the r32 GTSt is the boost sensor located high on the drivers side firewall just for the factory gauge or is it also used as an input to the ecu? What input does the ecu use to sense overboost?

I bought one at my local Nissan dealers for $84 +gst Part # 68761- 01U00 (charcoal) They want $40-$50 for a 15yo one at the wreckers and they usually break when they try to remove them.

I bought one today from my local Nissan dealer for $84 +gst Part # 68761- 01U00 (Charcoal) They want $40-$50 for a 15yo from the wreckers but they are brittle and usually break when they try to remove them.

I fitted a Type S plumb back BOV to the factory location in an auto R32GTSt. I hooked up the factory tube to the fitting on top of the diaphram leaving the fitting below the diaphram open. The problem is that the new BOV can't be heard operating at all. It's either super quiet or not operating at all. I've backed off the spring tension a bit but it made no difference. Do I need to hook up the lower fitting to boost before the throttle body. Can I connect it up to a T piece in the actuator line or is there somewhere better to hook it up? Do autos need a different BOV setup to a manual? Does leaving the lower fitting open to the atmosphere do the same thing as the 'blocking the hole in the bottom of the stock BOV' mod? Are the copies of the Greddy typeS bov on eBay any good?

The ding dong speed chime on my 32 was mounted on the back of the speedo. It died when I ignored it for 30km on the freeway then it pinged and clunked until I threw it out. Just pull the speedo and it's obvious which part it is and how to remove it.

I went to my Nissan dealer today to order a passenger side air vent. I gave them my vin no. but they want my trim code as the vents are available in 2 colours. I looked at the blue plate on the firewall and I assume my paint/trim code is KG1 G# The G# being the trim code. I told Nissan I thought the code was G but they said it should be a C or K. My car is a silver '89 GTSt sedan with dark charcoal trim. Can anyone help me sort this out.

Good point. I didn't think to mention it because I used a new amp for all the speakers. I think there are 11 pins on the factory amp plug, 4 speaker inputs, 4 speaker outputs, power, earth and trigger. Use a test light or multimeter to find 12v, earth and trigger then just join the inputs to the outputs. I think speaker positive wires are solid color and negatives have a trace. Anyway it's not too hard to sort out. GL

Don't forget to hook up the black and red wire from the centre pin of the larger plug to the power antenna output of the new headunit. It's for the antenna amplifier. There is another black and red wire on the plug but that is a speaker negative.

Have you priced these new from nissan?

but this ain't nsw.. 'twas south of the border If it was a camera why didn't my mate get flashed?

As much as I would like to think it was just a reflection it wasn't as I could see the individual cells of a flash bar. Do the cops use this type of flash? I've never seen it before but I've never seen the mobile cameras in operation without the 'speed camera in use' sign either. How long does it take them to post out an infringement notice? I guess I'll find out either way soon enough.