B0oStEr

My oil pressure sender is erratic so I need a new one. They cost heaps for the R32 from Nissan because they order them from Japan. Nissan don't seem to be able to cross reference import parts to see if can supply them from stock. Are they the same as some aussie Nissan that might be cheaper?

That is far from a bolt-on conversion.

What is their respective diff ratios? I think my manual is 4.11:1

I don't think so. It's just that less weight spools up quicker, all things being equal.

My R32 used to idle way too fast (1500-1700 rpm) for 10 or so seconds after I pulled up at the lights or what ever, before it dropped to 800rpm. My mechanic adjusted the idle control device at the rear of the inlet manifold by disconnecting the plug then screwing the adjustment in until it was right then he reconnected the plug. Apparently it was way out. It's been much better since he did this. My sons recently purchased R32 has a similar fast idle problem and I said to myself "I know this one" and pulled the plug off the controller and tried to screw in the adjustment. The only problem is that it's already screwed in all the way (1200 rpm idle) and screwing it out only increases the idle so there must be another problem. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be or how i should adjust the idle properly?

I've owned a stock R32 gtst manual for two years and I've always believed it performs ok for a well maintained stocker but a few weeks ago I bought an auto of the same model for my son. This car has no visible mods either but seems to build boost much more easily and quite frankly I think if we lined them up it would leave my manual in it's dust or at least I'd have to abuse the clutch to keep up. I've always been a diehard manual enthusiast with a disstain for slush boxes but I have to admit there is an advantage in the way the auto shifts up without missing a beat or dropping 1psi of boost and with the auto the Rb20 feels quite a bit torqier in the bottom end. Is the reason it builds boost so easily because the torque converter allows it to build revs against less load or could the auto use a different turbo as others have suggested occurs in later models? If this is not what others have experienced maybe it could be explained by differences in output between the two cars. It might be time to book a dyno just to see and also to set a benchmark before I fit my Hybrid I/C and 3"turboback.

I like the idea of using a turbo with a steel exhaust wheel over ceramic as I intend to run about 14 psi.

Say $500-1000 depending on whether it's new or used, catback or full system.

Apparently series2 R33s and most R34s have nylon compressor and ceramic exhaust wheels but I've read the very last R34s have alloy compressor and steel exhaust wheels. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...35&page=1&pp=25 Read on from post #24 to page2 Can anyone positively confirm or refute this?

I'd like to buy a 3" noise legal exhaust for my R32GTSt, preferably Stainless. If you have one or know where I could get one cheaply, please let me know.

EVL032 @turbo aust?

I've been told late R34 GTT turbos have a steel turbine wheel instead of ceramic and are the pick of the OEM Nissan turbos for the R32. Is this right? Where can I find one?

For those who don't live around the corner from Chris the easiest adapter to find is the Aerpro AP348A which is available anywhere they sell Aerpro products. Also, for the R32, not sure if R33/34s are the same. If your not using a Nissan adapter to wire the power and speakers for the new headunit, make sure you connect the power-antenna output (usually the blue wire) to the black/red wire in the centre pin of the factory headunit plug. This powers the factory antenna signal booster. There is another black/red wire next to it but it's a speaker wire.

Chris, could you get a sticky put up about these adapters as there seems to be a thread about this every few days.

I ran two 4g power cables in my GTSt 4 door. A 2 door should be similar. I took out the drivers side kickpanel and door foot panels. I pulled out the front seat but maybe that wasn't necessary The carpet is stapled to plastic clips that push onto the lip on top of the sill. Lift these up and the carpet should fold inward. Run the power cable along the bottom of the inside of the sill, where it meets the floor. Tuck it in with the main loom. Take your time to feed it past any obstructions like boot release, seat crossmember and seatbelt etc. If you want to run it into the boot you will need to take the back seat out and feed the cable through the small hole where the wheelarch meets the bottom of the rear 'firewall'. I ran my RCAs and speaker cable down the passengers side in a similar manner. Even with the thick cables and three RCAs there isn't any lumps in the carpet. Hope this helps.

What would be the best 2nd hand Nissan or suitable bolt-on turbo as an upgrade for a mild modded R32? eg FMIC, 3" turboback. Estimated power? I want it to remain responsive. What other options for $1000-$1500 I'm thinking of a late R34GTT turbo if anyone has one but I'm open to other suggestions.

Just guessing but I'd say the teflon treatment might have made the synchro cones a bit slippery. If they don't have a bit of bite your box will crunch. Maybe it only crunches in 2nd because 2nd gear has dual synchros so they each get less pressure therefore less bite.

I took the R32 for a spin today after not driving it for the last two weeks. Going slowly around a roundabout the engine stalled without warning. It didn't restart the first time I tried but started on the second attempt. When I got it home I was letting it idle for a minute in the driveway and it shut down without warning just as if I used the key. There was no slow idle just a steady 800rpm then it stopped just as if I'd set the turbotimer. I spent the last hour reading the twenty posts my search found but most of those with stalling problems had a poor idle as well or the problems were a result of malfunctioning a/m blow off valves etc. The only mod on this car is a turbotimer and it's an auto if that makes a difference. Due to the instant switch-like nature of the problem I think it's probably something electrical rather than fuel related. Has anyone had a similar problem and found out what it was? Thanks

My intercooler arrived this morning. It's the hybrid limited edition Solid construction, nice polish. I'm not sure what, apart from the cool looking plaque, make it different to the others, probably nothing. Once it's fitted it will be impossible to see the plaque anyway. I can highly recommend these coolers. Thanks Raf

Is the one I have coming the limited edition?

This sounds like b.s. to me if you call Southside Performance Imports im shore it can be sorted out 95424280 0416223437 Thanks for the advice. Are Southside in Sydney? If so, and I need to take the car to them that's a 1600km round trailer job. I understand that this engineer is just covering his ar$e by complying with the ADRs 100% but I don't know how much discretion they are allowed to bend the rules to keep things simple. After all these guys are supposed to have the knowledge to say whether something is safe or not. Does any one know of an engineer that lives in the real world somewhere south of the Goldcoast?

Ok It depends on the setup. What setup factors need to be considered for efficient cooling?

The bloke at the blueslip station rang the local engineer about the child restraint requirements. The car has had some fitted left, right and centre. They are nuts welded to a plate (apparently a Merc part) that are rivetted under the parcel shelf behind the rear speakers. The NSW engineer said because the car was complied as a 5 seater, he would only pass them if they were mounted on a bar that was mounted above the parcel shelf. uggh! I've seen a lot of R32s and I've never seen this long bar. My other R32 was complied under the old scheme and it had child restraint anchors mounted on small metal bridges over each speaker and the bolt went through the speaker grille. It didn't have a centre anchor, probably because it was complied as a 4 seater. Back then I checked the relevant ADRs on their website and the formula they use to position the anchor points meant they had to go in the speaker so I suppose the engineer is making sure it complies 100% to the ADR. How come other engineers can pass these anchors in different positions? Should I try and find a NSW engineer who will pass it 'as is', get the bar fitted or is there another way?

I've just bought a Hybrid style 600x300x76mm bar and plate intercooler for my R32 GTSt. I've been told that bar and plate I/Cs have denser fins than the tube and fin type and that this makes it harder for air to pass through the cooler to the radiator behind. Reduced airflow as well as the extra heat from the I/C. How much of an issue is this likely to be regarding overheating? What measures have people used to minimise the likelihood of overheating? Eg, positioning, additional ducting, sealing, vents etc. BTW How much am I going to have to chop up my stock sedan front bar to fit the cooler and piping?

salival Thanks for the link. I successfully downloaded the file but can't open it. I don't know much about computers. It says windows needs to know the program that created it. What should I type in?