B0oStEr

It sits under the pump. I've ordered one from nissan but they said there could be a bit of a wait. If you have one spare please let me know. Thanks.

Check these guys out and check out Morel for speakers. http://www.rmaudio.com.au/rma_web.htm

I'm now pretty sure my pump didn't come from a tomei kit. From the gtst nengun link in my last post it appears the tomei kit doesn't contain the regulator/damper thingy that came with the pump I bought. (Check pic in first post) Tomei obviously don't think it's needed. What does it do? My pump didn't come with the cushion and spacer seen in the tomei kit. I've ordered the cushion from Nissan as a genuine gtr part. I think the spacer is made by tomei as a gtst adapter so I guess I'll have to make my own.

Another thing that puzzles me is if the tomei gtst pump is the same pump as a std gtr how come they rate the tomei gtst pump at 248L/hr and rate the std gtr pump as 195L/hr? r32 gtst tomei pump: http://www.nengun.com/tomei/fuel-pump-niss...yline-r32-gts-t r32 gtr tomei pump: http://www.nengun.com/tomei/fuel-pump-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr Maybe they just look the same. Does anyone know the model no. from the tomei r32 gtst pump for certain?

This is an R32 GTR fuel pump. Thanks Topaz. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=123571

I can't remember the size off the top of my head but you don't need to hold the front of the crank to undo the flywheel bolts. Put a gearbox bolt in the block (near the engine number) and rest a small socket, end on, on the bolt and lean the socket so it jams a tooth on the starter ring stopping the flywheel turning anti- clockwise. When tightening the flywheel bolts do the same thing on the other side of the flywheel. Works a treat.

I bought a used 3000km old Tomei fuel pump for my r32gtst. Looking at the Tomei site it appears to be the correct one, part no. 183001 but this part no. isn't on the pump. I was a bit surprised to see the Nissan emblem on it even though I didn't really expect to see Tomei on it. It's marked Unisia Jecs A42-621B70 I found a pic of a bnr32/Z32 fuelpump and I can actually make out the same model no. on it. The R32gtst Nismo pump is the same also. It seems as though they are all the same pump so I don't care if mine actually came from Tomei or not. My only concern is how it fits up. The Tomei kit doesn't come with the clamp or extra regulator thingy that can be seen in the first pic but they were there in the bnr32/Z32 pics. Are they needed for the r32gtst? The Tomei kit comes with a spacer and cushion and I did not get these with my pump. Do I need them for a drop in fit? Can someone please shed some light on this?

Did you even read the first post. It's a panel filter as in for the stock airbox so no brackets and it isn't considered a mod.

Genuine Bosch internal fuel pump. Conservatively rated at 400HP, most quote 600HP. I paid $240 in a group buy for this but I'm not going ahead with my planned upgrade. New in box in sealed plastic bag. $175 delivered Australia wide.

If improving earths around the coils and igniters fixes this problem the question remains 'why does the problem go away with the stock ecu?' Could it be a case of there being an earth path through a pin in the stock ecu that is not present in the pfc? Or is it a case of a hiccup in the ign./fuel map of the pfc that causes a miss but the miss is masked by a better spark that results from the earthing improvements?

The passenger seat in my r32 gtst rattles like crazy when I drive alone. I used to notice it occasionally on bumps but since I put in firmer suspension it rattles nearly all the time. If I push or pull the backrest quite firmly the noise nearly stops. I had the seat out when I fitted my stereo and had a quick look for a reason for the noise but the seat appeared to be in good condition. It's got to the point where I don't like to drive the car any distance unless someone sits in the seat. Has anyone else had this rattle or better still sorted it?

It doesn't look shorter to me. How can you be sure? I've built complex manifolds before and even with a tape measure you can only estimate effective length. For 100% accuracy I measure volume with liquid.

I haven't seen this one before. It looks like it might be an improvement over other manifolds that use the stock turbo position. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-RB20...1QQcmdZViewItem

I borrow one from my local radiator shop. It only takes about 2 min per end. Even if you can't borrow one they shouldn't charge much to do it for you. It should be cheaper than a welder anyway.

I want skirts and rear bar for my 4door 32. I google image seached Impul and found this bodykit. http://www.pacificrimautosales.com/files/1...20_DSC_0009.jpg Is it Impul or something else? Similar to vertex Genuine Impul would be plastic right? Is it even possible to buy genuine or would I have to settle for a f/g copy?

I fitted a 925kg clutch and had to lengthen the master cyl. pushrod adjustment just to get it disengage. Even then it only just released when I buried the pedal into the carpet. It felt very heavy and never went over centre so the car was a pig to drive I took the clutch out and returned it to the supplier. The clutch builder reckons there is a lot of flex with the heavier diaphrams in the stock covers and the release bearing moves about 7mm before the clutch even starts to release. He disassembled the pressure plate and fitted a spacer behind the diaphram that changes the geometry. Now it releases perfectly and the operation feels much more like a factory clutch only a bit heavier. More importantly I can drive the car hard now and not crunch any gear changes.

Sell the stuffed turbo for someone to highflow and buy a known good secondhand turbo for $300-$400

It looks like you have wired your neutral switch into the oil temp wiring and obviously haven't wired your reverse switch up properly either. The neutral switch and oil temp may share an earth wire and maybe you connected the two wires backwards where they join.

If the r32 gtst ecu sees an input from the boost gauge map sensor what number pinout is it? What would the ecu need a map sensor input for anyway as it doesn't control boost in the gtst?

Lots of unhappy people lately. What has happened to this group buy? Nothing from SK since aug 7

My brother is a mechanic and he recently attended a 'trade night' where they had someone from nolathane explain how the company has had a rethink and now their bushes are using a new softer urathane that wears better and is better for NVH issues.

The fuel pump would have to be pretty bad to give problems at idle. I've previously had success resoldering the afm but recently my son's 32 started having these problems, which would go away temporarily when he wriggled the afm plug. I couldn't see any broken solder joints in the afm so I looked at the plug and two of the pin holes seemed a little bigger than the other two, possibly resulting in a poor connection so I pushed the pin hole sides in with a jeweller's screwdriver to ensure a tighter fit on the pins. This needs to be done carefully as it would be easy to ruin the plug with a heavy hand. The problem has gone completely for three weeks and counting.

PMs replied to. A few more parts added Rims and cusco castor rod not included in the take $300 for the lot offer.

I've got lots of stock bits to get rid of. Big discounts if pickup/multiple purchases. Some items will be given free with another item purchased if you pay postage. Stock R32 stuff Gtst rims X 4 (the usual marks but tidy enough) $150 Set of Stock wheelnuts $10 Sedan boot spoiler (leds working, needs respray) $40 Motorised front bar lip spoiler $30 All 4 sedan doors / glass / power window regulators etc $150 the lot Gtst stock catback exhaust vgc $80 TypeM 4 spot brake calipers (suit rebuild) $80 pr. 5speed auto trans. $50 Driveplate and torque converter. Free Auto Driveshaft (in bits) Free Auto shifter Free Auto brake pedal assembly $10 '89 gtst lhs guard liner $20 Gtst intercooler x 2 +some piping $20 ea. Used Coils x 6 $10 ea. $30 the lot 4 stud hub and knuckle assembly left and right $50 Non turbo brake discs and calipers $30 pr. front struts $50 Rear struts/springs (no tophats) $25 Front swaybar $20 front upper control arms (need rebush) $10 ea. Rb20/det engine and transmission mounts $10ea '89 foglights $40 pr. '92 foglights (no surrounds) $20 pr. Clear indicators (broken brackets, no bulb harness, repairable) $20 pr Bonnet liner $20 Non turbo exhaust manifold $20 Manifold heatsheild (vgc) $20 front speaker baffles $10 ea front speaker grilles $10 ea glovebox lid $20 lower dash panel with fuse cover $15 instrument cluster surround (auto) $20 Centre dash console (main body) $20 Misc. parts Rb30 motor (no camshaft, suit conversion) $50 R31 airbox lower half Free R30 front bar cover, reo and filler $40 Marathon 2.25" stainless round tri-flow muffler $20 Genie turbo 2.25" stainless oval muffler/resonator $20 Finer filter pod $10 Crane cams XR700 ignition module $20 All item located NSW far north coast. Bring a trailer and take the lot for $300. Also R32 cusco pillowball castor rod (one only vgc) $100 or I'll buy yours to make a pair

What brand? I wouldn't recommend a mix and match.