B0oStEr

Lots of welding, machining and die grinder work and you'll still have smaller valves and ports. Definitely not worth it. Get an r32 rb25de head and your cams and injectors will swap straight over.

Does anyone know whether ecu pin 104 earths or gives a 12v trigger to switch the fpcm to direct earth?

My shocks are in good condition. No leaks and they have been on my car 18 mths and were a couple of years old when I got them. These are kings KDFL101/KDRL102 and are supposed to be only 25% stiffer than stock. What can the springs bind on? Bump rates are too high to get near the bumpstops I spoke to Marco at Top Performance. The reason my suspension is so stiff is the konis are from the first batch Top Performance bought into Australia for the gtr and then the rear mounts were modified to suit the gtst. The bump and rebound rates were specified by koni japan according to what gtrs were using on the circuit in japan at the time so they are badly mismatched with kings springs. They want about $500 to revalve them to suit but I wondered if the money would be better spent on other shocks.

My hinge broke and the deflector got bent when the sunroof jammed it so I need a new one.

Things must have changed. I had to drive an unregistered car from qld to nsw a few years ago and I had to purchase a one day ctp seperately before they would give me a permit.

I drive past a nice white r33gtst for sale on the side of the road everyday. It's been there for a month and started at $17k It's had $13k on it for the last week so I stopped and had a look at it. I was surprised it was a manual and only had 90,000km on it. A very tidy car apart from having too many stickers on it. It still has ONO on it too. You can't tell me there aren't some bargains to be had out there.

Yeah, no wonder that pic looked a bit odd. If you look hard enough at that mess under the bonnet you can make out the east-west timing cover.

Looks very clean. Is it an '89? If it's not too rude, how much?

Are the mounting bolts 12mm or 14mm? R34s are 14mm.

This box isn't getting any fresher. Is there a non-genuine rebuild kit available for this box?

Does anyone know of someone who can recover an r32 factory steering wheel so it still looks original?

I bought some for my r32gtst. They are an old model and are very stiff, even with Kings lows and softest setting. If you think yours are ok on the street what is their model no? Have you had them revalved? Or have you ditched them for something better?

At the positive battery terminal there is a connection that goes to the fusebox etc. Check it's clean and tight.

Honestly mate those bushes look like a bad joke compared to the noltec ones but since you have them fit the rear ones while the cradle is out. It's nonsense to suggest you need movement. Any increase in NVH is minimal but would be present anyway because you have replaced the front bushes.

The hkb part no. for r32gtst on ebay is ON110 Does anyone know if this fits early or late or both?

The hkb ones on ebay for gtr and gtst are listed seperately.

How do you know your hkb kit is early r32gtst specific? I mean do they have a late r32gtst kit.

Not so rare but definitely not in an '89 though. Series 2 only.

I've never seen a maximum castor recommendation but 13 degrees does seem excessive. I don't think there is supposed to be any difference in off set between gtr and gtst upper arms. Are you sure they are installed the right way around?

R33 brakes on the r32 gives r34 rims minimal clearance. It's not hard to imagine that small differences in the caliper castings could cause clearance problems in some cases. R34gtt brakes would be better but need the mounting holes enlarged.

What boss kit did you buy? I was going to buy one of those hkb/autotecknica kits for r32gtst from ebay. My car is an '89gtst. I didn't realise series 1 and 2 were different. Is either the same as r32gtr as hkb list them seperately to the gtst one?

Have you changed anything or had any work done lately eg. stereo, gauges etc?

I did mine a few months ago. I'm pretty sure the centre hole in the factory bush is flared out at the top. It think the hole in the noltec bush is straight but the same size as the flare in the factory bush. Have you looked at the studs to see if they are tapered at the base? Don't worry about the clearance in the bush as it locks up rock solid as Cubes said.

If your speedo is not working then the hicas light will come on and the power steering will go heavy as hicas has lost it's speed signal from the speedo. The speedo could be a cable or speedodrive problem. You haven't put an r33 box in have you? Your smoke problem is probably unrelated. It could be tune related or an AFM fault.

The Noltec bushes for all R32s is #N92447 They are right for gtrs but too long for gtsts even though noltec say they are ok. For a gtst you just need to cut 12mm from the small end (top) of the bush. Are you sure the hole in the crush tube is too big? IIRC the crush tube locates on a slight taper at the base (top) of the subframe stud.