B0oStEr

There is a thread somewhere on here that has pics and the nissan part number for the clips you need. They screw onto the non-projector headlight and the grille clips in.

By dash do you mean instrument cluster only? What colour is the face of the speedo? Brand? Kms?

There's a speed camera near where I live that has become a bit of a media issue. A heap of people have had multiple bookings and since it hit the media dozens of people have come forward claiming the camera is inaccurate. Some of them are very credible like a woman who hasn't ever had a ticket in 30 years gets booked six times in two weeks. The RTA has sent a team of experts to examine the camera and claim it's ok but the issues not over with people calling for further investigation and talk of a class action lawsuit.

That would be within manufacturers tolerance of my rb20 sensor (651 ohms cold) so yours was probably swapped to rb20 as others have said is necessary for the rb25 in r32s. I found the thermo couple sensor for my multimeter so I pulled the temp.sensor from my spare motor and set it up in a pot of boiling water and logged the ohms as it cooled. deg.C ohms 100 = 25 90 = 35 80 = 49 70 = 55 60 = 72 50 = 100 40 = 193 30 = 257 20 = 580 This seems to be pretty right and from what I can tell is the same as the one in my car. By these figures my original measurement of 56 0hms at operating temperature means my car is running at about 71 degC so I guess the high reading is coming from the gauge itself.

Sorry, there seems to be some confusion here. My car is a factory r32 with rb20 so I'm not sure why we are talking about silvias at all.

No, just 10mm return lines, two near hicas solenoid and in and out of the cooler loop. I previously paid $66 to have Enzed repair the high pressure line on my son's 32 when the hose section was cut in a crash.

I recently replaced 4 power-steering hoses near the battery in my 32 because they were weeping under the clamps. They were leaking oil down the driver's side chassis rail. It cost less than $20

Adriano is right. The return line just returns unused fuel from the FPR to the tank. It's the FPR's job to maintain fuel pressure. If the return line is leaking it won't cause a drop in rail pressure so it shouldn't cause pinging. Now if the feed line was leaking that would be a problem.

Did your car have a dashlight dimmer fitted for compliance? My 32 did and the dimmerswitch played up and I lost the dashlights.

Does this mean the fronts have sold?

Why are they obviously the correct resistance for the r32 gauge? Have you tried the CA or SR sensor in an rb20? Do they screw straight in?

I tried searching but could only find posts on how the factory gauges are crap and nothing about why they are crap. I guess it might take a bit longer than 2 minutes at idle but within a couple of ks it's up there at 3/4. I've owned the car 4 years and it's always been like this. Cooling system is fine. I've had it checked. Temps run in the low 80s. Never loses coolant. It's just that the gauge reads 3/4 or nothing.

Since I've owned my r32 the temp has always read about 3/4 on the gauge where most say theirs runs about 1/2. It's not actually running hot and once the gauge rises to 3/4 in about 2 minutes from a cold start it stays there. It doesn't read any higher when driving it hard even on hot days. Once the motor is warm if I park the car for a 1/2 hour when I restart it the gauge goes to 3/4 in a couple of seconds. I know the factory temp gauge has a bad reputation but is the problem in the gauge or the sender. I tested the ohms between my sender and earth with a multimeter. I don't have a thermometer so I timed the readings during cool down. At normal operating temperature it read 56ohms. 15 minutes after I switched the car off it read 60 ohms. After half an hour it was 120ohms. Dead cold it was 651ohms. Does that seem about right or should I get a new sensor?

One only for sale $100 or I'll buy another to make a pair.

So long as your car is roadworthy from a maintenance point of view and your tyres don't stick outside the guards you should be ok. Just a word of warning though. Say you go to one workshop for a pinkslip and they give you a whiteslip with things that need attention and then you go somewhere dodgy and get it passed as is. The incomplete inspection papers from the first shop have to be submitted to the RTA. The RTA will then sometimes call you in for a 'random' inspection of your car and you get defected and the dodgy workshop that passed it loses their inspection license. I've seen it happen more than once.

My r32 had to have the curved mirror changed to flat mirror for compliancing. If it is only the glass that is broken I can't see why that can't be replaced.

Actually this isn't the case. I have solved this problem by changing the original variable resistor (0-7.5ohm) with 500mA variable resistor from Dick Smith (0-500 ohm) and the LEDs dim progressively from full bright right down until they go out. In fact it works so well my aftermarket boost gauge also dims at the same level which surprised me somewhat.

Haha "driving in snow" on the gold coast. If you find the box is dead I have one left over from a half cut.

I've got one in nsw but the freight would be more than the door.

I'm not sure what will do the job but the r33 rwd won't because it's too long and the teeth are cut the opposite way to what you need. The r33gtr would be the first option I would look at.

I know my dashlight dimmer used to work but i haven't had a need to adjust it since I bought the car. Now I've fitted LED bulbs to the dashlights and I tried to turn them down but the dimmer doesn't work anymore. It's either full bright or off. The aftermarket boost gauge that used to dim doesn't dim either. I don't see how fitting the LEDs could cause this but I have only noticed it after fitting them.

0.10mm or 4 thou of an inch is normal piston to bore clearance for some forgies. Best to find out what the piston manufacturers recommend.

The difference between the 20 and 21 tooth gear can be expressed as a percentage (4.76%) which will be the same percentage the speedo will be out (+4.76kph@100kph) relative to what it was before swapping the cogs. If it was out before the swap then of course you have to add that to the difference. Fordy if your speedo reads 110 when you are actually doing 95kph then it is out the same way but it depends how many teeth the speedodrive has in your current gearbox. Have you checked?

I've posted numerous times how to do this to help people out. It takes me less time to actually do the job than it does to type up how it's done. Mainly because I type with one finger so I copied the following from one of my old posts.

You would use rb25 pistons with rb25 crank or rb26 pistons with rb26 crank. You would also need aftermarket rod bolts so the cost of the 34 rods plus bolts plus shot peening/balancing will be about the same as eagles.