rx-line

In the V8 world the kits come in "master rebuild kits" or "partial Rebuild kits. Including everything from synchros, bearings, gasket, seals etc. I have seen rebuild kits for the CA19 and KA. I was unsure if there was an aftermarket rb20 kit or if it is interchangeable with the KA and CA parts as the boxes are similar. I know typically bearings + Syncrhos usually do not need replacement depending of course. I would like to cover all ends if I am fishing through two boxes to create one proper one.

Hey folks, I am looking for a rebuild kit for the RB20det transmission. My current box has the synchros gone for second gear, leaks slightly and has a bearing noise from sitting for so long. I have a spare that seems to be sloppy and has been sitting for 3 years. Now before we get off track in the "Upgrade to Rb25 transmission" posts here is where I am at. Rb25 Box Pros: Strength 400ft/lbs??Cons: Size (too large for rx-7 tunnel) Need new Prop shaft end Cost $900-$1000 Unknown mileage & wear New clutch?? Rb20 Box Pros: Already have two for gears to choose from Rebuild kit would cost less than $900?? Already have stage 4 clutch and prop shaft Known wear and state of transmission after rebuild Increased strength/reliablility Still good for 300-350 ft/lbs Cons: Not as much strength as Rb25 BoxSo my question is where can I get an Rb20 transmission rebuild kit? If not can I use a KA or CA rebuild kit?

So this would be even more aggressive than what my map was? I am glad you explained the left mid range side of the map, I was really off put by this initially. I was wondering why the base map was higher nearly everywhere compared to my map. And why it was exactly that the timing map I was using was so outlandish? And that most rb20's with this timing map would "eat themselves"? I understand stock vs modified, 10psi vs 15psi. But stock I would think would be much more prone to knock due to much higher intake temps and breathing restrictions? Ultimately I am learning and not by any means not listening to what you have to offer, clearly you folks know more than myself. I will do a bit of remapping tonight and start from the base map -3 to -4 degrees and smooth the mid/right max load area. I did find another rb20 base timing map in nistune that was much smoother ande very different from this style that most share.

FYI - Nistune RB20det base map timing Why so high?

I hear ya loud and clear, I have it worked out to run on a dyno a few hours from here. Timing has been pulled back in boost transition and boost. I have noticed that all of the sudden the car is running rich when cold like 10.9 afr's on idle and is rich right accross the map. I have reduce the crank enrich + temp enrich figures down to the same as they are when warm with no change. I am not running the cold start FYI, Any ideas?

I will do what I can to get a knock monitoring system in place. But I have two questions prior. What would a safe map look like? Is it too high in all areas? off Load? On Load? If my crank angle sensor was off center would it adjust my timing on the tables or just increase/decrease my timing depending on how much it's out? This is of course why I had posted here, I appreciate the insight. Rx,

So is there an aftermarket knock sensor?, I enabled knock tracing while running low timing and rich one time and it lit up everywhere. I am assuming that setting is too sensitive or the sensor is on the fritz. Not noticed as the knock timing map is the only timing map available?

I probably shouldn't road tune, but I work with what I have. It's either that or let a monkey tune it? So any idea on timing? I had decreased the factory map by 3-4 points in certain areas and adjusted Afr's while gradually progressing the rpms and tuning accordingly. The timing is still not as high as it was from the nistune base map. Bens probably gonna flame, But for reference purposes only, see attached picture. Can see holset and manifold we built with tial 38mm no other pics of new setup.

Really? I hear so many different things. And your right. The folks here in canada east who run the dyno shops are f**king moronic. I'd rather learn myself. I have heard that the 20's love timing up top. I have every mod done to the engine without opening it up. It's also in a 2400lb factory car (FB rx7) without power steering, AC pump, Clutch fan etc.

build me a map guys!

Starting from about 2k rpm

The second timing trace obviously correlates with the recording of the 3rd gear pull. didn't go all the way to 8k. The timing tapers off to 22deg in boost. Maf is maxing out at 7kish as you can see.

Also What would you like me to trace?? I can't log Wideband but can log factory o2 if it even works on open loop? 3rd gear pull from 1500rpm to 8000rpm RPM Timing MAF Temp Injector Duty Cycle Anything else?? Or are you saying to trace timing?

14psi on rb25det turbo had me hitting boost cut on a factory ecu but not on a mines tuned ecu. I now have a Holset Hy35. I have fiddled with the Kconst and Injector Latency from what is reported for GTR injectors to get it to idle and run right on the factory nistune maps. I smoothed the timing out and fuel maps from there. I did increase load and rpm values to capture everything. Is there really a right and wrong with Injector Lat and Kconst if Afr's are correct? I don't see a downfall of where I am at with the AFM, like i said timing and afr's all seemed good in high boost. Is there something else I should be looking at? Thanks,

I will do that tomorrow, things seem conflicting in this subject. A bit of a trade off it seems. Ultimately I want low end power (something RB20's dont have much of) I just thought boost was the way to go. It has nothing below 4000rpm and takes off to space @ 5000rpm. Running 12.699 with 2.0sec 60 foot. in the 1/4. The 60 foot is either spinning on boost or bogging off boost depending on launch. Rx,

Also I am in the 88 column at max load. I am thinking as my MAF sensor is maxing out but AFR's are find and everything seems safe.

Hi Folks, Curious as too what my timing should look like for building boost and why the factory maps have such high timing under little load. I have smoothed out the map a fair bit and reduced the 0 load side a few points. With 93 octane and a little octane booster I am running 12.5 to 11.5 afr's as boost progresses. I have the turbo, injectors and all supporting mods to keep intake temps down and decrease detonation. Should I program higher timing while 4000rpm-5000rpm (5psi-12psi) building boost to 15psi aorund 5600 and run more or less fuel in the transitioning period?? Is 22 degrees safe for the above statements?? What would a good timing map for a 20 look like? RX,

I have similar problems with nistune, I figured it was the factory O2 causing the problems. Can be from 12-16afr's on idle while sometimes perfect at 14.7. Can be lean entering boost 13's but drops to 11.3 afr's at 15lbs and holds afr's there. Makes sense that it would be O2 or IAC.

I fixed the above problem by adding a piggyback wire from pin 27 to 35 i believe, Runs like it has some major injector pulse problems. Sounds like a Subaru to be honest. I will have someone move the board over and re-program here in Canada. I am sure there would be more gremlins than what i am experiencing.

Take a look at the attached, Injection timing drops hard. I have code 12 for AFM come up but seems to be reading fine.

I think the biggest thing is the Maf sensors f**king me around,

"Feature Pack ECU Detected" ECU: BNR32 Skyline GTR RB26dett 05U61 Nistune will upload address file: BNR32_rb26_256_E.adr Auto-Load this Address-File?"

Thanks man, I got the RB26 injectors and Ecu with nistune in the car. I keep uploading the rb20 basemap to the ecu and everything is fine until the key turns off and then it wants to load the RB26 feature pack. We can change items on the rb20 map like fueling by looking at wideband. I am getting a code for intake AIT. the car will only rev to 2700 and does this sort of soft limiter bup bup bup.. Any ideas? new to nistune.

Hey Folks, I have recently upgraded my RB20 with an he341 holset and manifold w/ external waste gate. I am running an 8lb spring at 9psi and am about two psi points away from un-safe AFR's. There for I have bought an RB26 nistune ECU, GTR Injectors & Resistor ballast. I know the Series 2 boards are the same but I am assuming the ecu's are far different. I do have an RB20 ecu that is slotted for chips, are the Nistune Ecu's slotted?. Would it be matter of removing the nistune bits and putting them in the rb20 ecu? Any help would be much appreciated. Rx-

How would I wire the speed input? Get a wheel sensor and resistors or try a retro fit to the skyline dash.