Looney_Head

it'll be fine.....

at the very least you could use it as a mobile diving platform at the pool

did you go to the us gtr festival? any progress on getting the car back out and running?

thanks Roy, i did look into z32 front knuckles but saw it was a ballache so didn't bother. my local nissan parts dealer says he has a R32 ABS gts front knuckle, so i'm going to investigate that and see what it is.

Thanks Komdotkom, I would take you up on that offer, but the cost of shipping to NZ would be horrible.

Sweet thanks mate, I did wonder if its easier to try and find a R33 knuckle and make that fit, is it just a case of changing the lower ball joint? I'm getting drive wheel speed off the gearbox speed sensor which is fine so far to 230kph

Hi People, has anyone come up with a way of getting non-driven wheel speed on a R32 Gts/gtst? from what i've seen the RWD R32 didn't look to come with ABS, if they did i can't find a rwd ABS front knuckle anywhere. is it a case of putting a S14/R33 front knuckle on and then modifying the ASB ring to suit a ECU input frequency limit? or have people managed to get a hall sensor onto the back of the hub and pick up the wheel studs? i've searched but there isn't anything that I could find.

Thanks, its a distance car lol, good from far, but far from good

thanks the engine use to really labour when the fan kicked in, but after getting the alternator and voltage issues sorted its fine now. i haven't driven the car in the summer with the shroud in, but it doesn't go over 93 when driving and at idle the fan keeps it at no more then 90. I'm running a Vipec i88 which is Linkecu's old motorsport ecu, its identical to a g4+ xtreme. but if i go 8HP i'll swap to a Maxxecu race series

Thanks

another update on mine. got fuel issues sorted and maxed out the turbo on a mainline hub dyno: Final results are 420kw @ hubs @ 18psi on 98RON, and 500kw @ hubs @ 23psi on E85, with full boost hit by ~3700rpm (but for 20psi and above we roll the boost in to be nice to the rods) VID20240803132144 (1).mp4 Specs: Rb30 block Tomei 256 poncams CP pistons 8.75:1 compression MRP rods ARP rod bolts, main studs, head studs Stock crank RB25 oil pump RB25 head Vct enabled Kelford valve springs Home ported Vipec i88 NZ wiring cam trigger kit Greddy intake manifold Sinco twin scroll t4 manifold Borg Warner S361SX-E Turbo Precision 66mm wastegate Twin 3-port MAC valves for boost control 1550 xspurt injectors Twin In-tank Walbro 460lph fuel pumps (staged) Ethanol content sensor Custom 4" exhaust

been a while since I updated this post so heres two years worth of stuff. In may of 22 the head gasket decided it wanted to let combustion get into the coolant, so the head came off got a skim, there was no sign of any damage to the gasket or signs of where it was leaking. so ditched the cometic head gasket and went to a Nitto one. and I've not had any issues with it since. so never use cometic head gaskets. after that i got a Radium fuel pump hanger setup to overcome the fuel issues we had on the dyno, its a nice bit of kit but its so hard to get into the tank with the stock fuel level sender (I've since gone to a Frenchy's Performance Garage fuel level sensor as mine wasn't working): So I had the fuel pumps sorted and went back to the dyno: but still had fuel pressure dropping off, turned out my -12an fuel filter was the restriction and could have been the cause of a lot of issues I've had regarding fuel flow. The filter it turns out is only rated to 7psi and was collapsing and causing a huge restriction. That was replaced with a Turbosmart fuel filter. And back to the dyno but this time a mainline hub dyno: This time I had voltage issues when the car was on e85 and set to 20psi, below that it was fine, so called the day at that point to chase wiring issues, by made 470rwkw on a mainline at 6500: so re did some wiring, replaced the alternator with a reputable branded one, changed the radiator to a Koyo one and installed a Frenchys radiator shroud as my fenix one didn't survive the head gasket and i was using a temporary one for a long time, I went from a four port boost solenoid to two three ports for better boost control. Then took the car back to the mainline dyno where finally we got a successful day. The turbo works really well on the RB30 and is able to make well over 20psi of boost well before 4000rpm which is more torque then i want to throw at the rods and tyres, so for the "full power run" it actually has a softer boost hit by design where it ramps to 20psi at around 4000rpm, then cranks up to around 23psi at 5000rpm and holds around there for full power. Final results are 420kw @ hubs @ 18psi on 98RON, and 500kw @ hubs @ 23psi on E85, with "full boost" hit by ~3700rpm VID20240803132144 (1).mp4 from here I need to get some tyres for the upcoming drag season and see if i can improve my 11.8. And look into gearbox options, a 8HP sounds really appealing and would make this an absolute monster, but i do like having a manual, so will save and see if speedtek gets any better. here is a pic of the car out and about: but thats it for now, I'll post any updated times as I get them. and a massive thank you to @Lithium for all his efforts on the car over the years

what 8HP did you end up with? and do you mind sharing what its cost to get it going? i'm on borrowed time with my 25t box, and am looking at options, either a speedtek gearset or a 8hp75

?awesome work mate, car is looking and sounding great. so you recommend the 8hp swap?

awesome progress, so after putting in the 350z pedal do you think thats a good pedal or would a bosch pedal and custom mount be better (yes i know the cost isn't the same).

Looking great. where did you get your sound deading from and how much did you use?

mate that sucks Not having done anything like that before I would follow RIPS second option as you will get better coverage of the eproxy. once the head is on it will support it so it won't pop off.

Looks good. nice work

sweet if they have said one then one it is

heads up for the cert, when i did mine, i had to have two loops due to how and where the center hanger was. great work on the car, looking and sounding good. and solid power

Hi, i ended up pulling the pump off and porting out the oil by-pass and going to a 5w/30 oil. that has fixed it. i now see 100~PSI peak

so the kids didn't end up under the pool?

cars looking good. the wheels and tyres look tough

hahaha glad it was a simple fix. but that is funny. great work on the car, the setup is looking good. you could modify the stock airbox to have larger inlet and put a pod filter in it if you wanted to.

welcome