predator

get the black fella.. Possible the rims have been swapped just with any old cheap crap they had sitting around to sell it off. Front bar same as the one that came on my GTS-T (crap for front mounts though) The other one has been toyed with.. performance mods obviously removed. I bet you the rest of the car is in poorer state of maintenance as well. Black is a bit of a bitch, but when dirty still looks nice and tough.. KM wouldn't worry about... OMG you might have actually got a couple of non-wound back cars.. because I think about 90% of 1989 cars have been from those figures to their magical 80-90k mark.

the front brakes are crappy singles.. but $300-400 will see you a nice set of 4 pots to fix that issue up. Some say the diff is non-LSD on them, but not sure, as mine has an LSD. Otherwise the stabaliser bars might be a little smaller.. xRHETTx - well meet one right here

RB30-power: ok, have page 117. I will see if that can help Thanks heaps CEF11E for the large photo, I will study that in detail. Thanks for the help guys.. hopefully I find something. It didn't seem too hard to assemble and the soldering, etc was fairly easy (have done a bit before) compared to some things, but obviously I have missed something small which is preventing it from working.

mmm... but check what? lol.. I have checked the resistance across the resistors, that is all fine and easy to do. Check the voltage values of the I/C's.. that would be nice, if I knew exactly how they worked or the exact voltage you should be seeing across each pin at a given point but I don't. I went through the calibration procedure.. feed in 5v.. checking voltage across TP2.. checking output voltage while adjusting the variable resistors till it was 5V... Checked output signal... its outputting 5v. It seems to be "partly" working. grunt

I know this may not be the best place (but where else?). Does anybody have a close up of their completed, and *working* Jaycar DFA from top ?? When I first built it, despite being fairly careful, I stuffed the polarity of a diode, which ended up blowing a transistor. Anyhow, so bought another of the same from jaycar, soldered it in, and still not getting any success. Key points I've measured with the multimeter - and getting voltages to various parts - but without a voltage diagram included, can't tell what the values should be in a working circuit. The handcontroller backlight connects up, but i am just getting a sort of flashing effect, but no display on it. The LED on the DFA lights up and it "clicks" on. The controller is a lot simpler, so more convinced that the DFA is stuffed, rather than the controller (much simpler circuitry). Its a hard one, as its possible another component is stuffed internally, but how do I tell? I've tried both a standalone 12V power supply.. (old PC powersupply) and connected to my car, and same result. Whilst I have checked the schematic and my competed version 10 times and cannot spot any differences, an actual high res photo would help a lot, so I can pick off all the right parts and match to mine. Checked all solders, redone a few that were maybe a bit sus. Don't really want to toss it in the bin without having even tried it Really do want to give it a try, as I'd save for a rb20det PFC, but in the end I am swapping to RB25 and would have to onsell it again to get the rb25 PFC. Any help appreciated..

coming around to them myself.. originally i thought the 350z was much better looking.. but now i am thinking the other way around .. like them a bit better in the white i think.. or black would be hot (as always) the grille is my main sticking point..

Good luck! you'll need it to find one for $10k...

1992-1994 GTR could be ****ed as well.. whatever you end up buying, get it checked by a workshop that specialises in those sorts of cars

got an insurance quote on your average locally delivered WRX lately? Its not that pretty.. you'd be stupid to go the r33, when you can do an engine swap and put out more power, in a better designed chasis for going fast. R34 could be possilbe at mid-20's and feel a fair bit newer. Anyhow, I get sick of these constant "should I??" on here.. if you don't know what you want to do yourself, why is asking anybody else going to help?

I have a feeling smooth may have other problems.. saw that area on the news, looked pretty bad.

Don't think they will work properly.. they have different part numbers. Not too sure exactly what the differences are though(??)

Thing is, you notice and remember when a cop does something wrong (not that often), and yet if any other idiot does something stupid, you soon forget. Simple situation.

done.. need it.. want as dark as possible.. might be able to rope a couple of non-sau skyline mates in as well..

Can we drive through the floods ?? please plaese matt.. can we.. can we??!!

Its funny how many go "dont touch it all", and a few are "well its probably fine if checked out properly" if I listed all the things wrong with mine when I imported (not that i really had a choice what turned up in the end) that any inspection would show up (half the same things as that car you are looking at actually).. you'd be going "no way".. Same price roughtly too.. But all of the things have been fairly minor wear and tear items, that could show up on a car 5 years newer and I fixed for low cost. Never has given me grief.. other than a fuel pump -- which was installed by myself, and not factory fit.

i know, that is fine.. if you live in that world.. but why do people grow up in *this country*, look over to "their world" for inspiration of what makes a good life or how they should act?? anyhow, too much theory.. I'm pissing off now.. lol

hmm, does anybody above the age of 25 think tupac or any of those rappers living or dead are still actually cool? I find it hard to respect somebody who got shot for pissing off other people? just happened he was the unlucky one to die before them. That whole rap music "I'm tougher than you" is so childish, kind of a shame they have to kill each other to prove it.. but hey, if you want to idolise people that go do that sort of thing, go right ahead.. but in 5 years you'll be all grown up and realising how stupid it all is. In fact, now that I think about it, when tupac was actually killed, you girls would have been about hmm, 9 or not even(?).. must have effected you in a deep and traumatic way do you remember the day well?

oh my, and they are little wanna be little homie to boot.. reptzc w8ck.. west side .. wiikid.. now go get a real job, buy your own GTR and bye bye..

they looked at the stock gauge I bet you.. idiots.. ENGINE HAS VERY LOW OIL PRESSURE not much .. either the oil pump is about to go and destroy the engine, or its all fine and nothing to worry about.. So I guess you need to establish for sure what the problem is. Oil pump replace I am not even sure is a full in/out job?? Mine reads pretty low, but car otherwise seems to run fairly well, I think its more the gauge. Needs air filter - coolant overflow lid missing bit of a worry on the airfilter.. no panel filter at all? engine could have been sucking a lot of dust and things for months.. not good.. coolant lid.. somebody lost it common in older cars (mine were gone).. probably looking at about $250 to get those replaced... will improve steering feel / handling so not a bad idea to replace anyhow.. at least you know they are stuffed. I assume they don't mean the actual rack itself (hope not!).. Do they actually mean *rack* bushes or steering rack boots? rack bushes hold the steering rack to the chasis.. rack boots are $15 each, and 1 hour job to change both. can be expensive if you need a reco'ed rack put in.. depends if its a couple of drops, or major leakage. Few hundred dollars to replace the rack. (Suspension) strut boot?? They are the plastic protective sheathes that sit over your shocks.. not too much, again.. if stock shocks I wouldn't worry.. I assume you will replace with aftermarket sometime?? if aftermarket coilovers, could mean dust and grit has got into the shock, reducing its life, may require rebuild. yeah, they always do.. unless its below minimum thickness, that is not a concern. replace rear pads at same time - may as well. Exhaust system has heavy corrosion yeah, they get that sitting under the car exposed to a wet road.. possibly salt in japan. Stock exhaust, again, how long do you plan on keeping that on? Otherwise annoying as it will rust through eventually - require new exhaust system. Rust in boot floor A fair concern.. could be others lurking under body, sideskirts, etc.. if its not just a little bit of red /oxidisation (which should be attended to anyhow), thats probably enough reason to walk away. Right hand light has moisture in it yeah, most cars can do that.. it has been raining for nearly 2 weeks solid up here afterall.. Look in the end, are you getting a really good price? Are these things required for you to get the safety cert? Do you plan on modifying the car and replacing these items over time? or do you want to leave everything "as is" for as long as possible, and just enjoy the car as is? It sounds like, if workshop does the work, you're going to be hit with a $1500-$2k bill for all that work (assuming oil pressure problem is just the gauge).. If the car is still worthwhile (checking the rust issue carefully) after that cost, then why not. anyhow, hope some of my rambling helps a bit.

where in brisbane are you?