predator

intersting contraption.. can't say it sets my world on fire, but just to be able to do it must have took a lot of work, so I respect that

should have spent the $150 on some GTR injectors rather than wasting $150 on the fuel reg at the early stage. I'd rather spend the $300 on the GTR injectors, and will I got a 2nd hand highflowed RB25 turbo for $600.. you have to ask yourself what the response will be in the "T4" style unit you have, I'm thinking not too good, a lot of top end rather than mid.. but only one way to find that out.

you cracked the socket?? never seen that happen before, must have been some pretty weak metal. Usually the thread will just sheer. Did you use a breaker bar?? You *were* going anticlockwise right?

I saw that one on a cruise once and had a bit of a gander. Most of the work looks to be fairly professionally done, and definitely something different! Go for it.. 177rwkw won't seem massively fast in something that size (a good few hundred more than the R30), but it will go pretty well. I guess just check the obvious, the suspension setup (hard to get parts), the diff (again hard to source an LSD) and otherwise should be good. But I am sure you know most of this

my my.. ok, just buy a WRX .. for $10k more.. Is a Porsche GT3 better than a GTR ? is a HSV better than an R34? is a .. bah.. please don't have the ego to think that you are the only one who has ever asked this question before, and your post justifies any other responses to such a generic and silly question.

i have a feeling the run of the R32's could end a bit dead too.. So many R33 at cheap prices, and for most the "overall package" of the R33 is more appealing compared to an R32.. More and more R34's seem to be coming up at good prices, importers will be bringing more of them (as they know there is a market for them, not so flooded) at low $20's.. pushing the R33's even further down to $10-$15k levels.. $15k max for a nice modded R33.. $20k maybe for an R34 (talking 2 years maybe) I even question the decision to sell up the R33 ($20k i got clear, woot), and go down to the R32.. and spend another $5-6k on that. By the time it hits $15k i could have got another cheap R33, but then again, it wouldn't be setup exactly how I like. You would have to be really keen to purchase an R32 for $15k.. when there are many R33 for that price now..

one of australia's strongest motors. only thing is.. I'd be wary an actual rebuild.. as the rebuild doesn't tend to last as long as the original, depending on who has done it..what components used, etc. Especially if it has been done by your "average garage" just getting the n/a back on its feet to be driven some more, and with no performance goals in mind.

Seriously, i think boost gauges going for $300 are the biggest waste of money and wank possible, unless you have a race car.. and probably then you're at the level where somebody else is monitoring the engine status using proper equipment, rather than a simple incabin gauge. If you are getting your car tuned by an expert, they're going to be monitoring all of your knock, boost and the rest to ensure that is not dangerous using their tools. Its nice to see where your boost is at whilst driving, and what is happening re: spiking and dips, and of course the "open boost" situation is vital to keep an eye on. But a boost gauge afterall is a monitoring tool, rather than a vital engine function. But I am a tightass, so take this with a grain of salt.. I've had $40 specco boost gauges in my last two cars, and have not had any problems over the years. They may not be the most accurate thing, but who knows whether they are not. A 1-2psi variance between actual and displayed should not a make a difference between engine failure and not (esp. with the stock turbo). They're definitely better than the stock gauge, and even many are happy enough just sticking with that as long as the car is tuned by an expert.

I'm actually surprised variable volume turbochargers didn't become more common 10 years ago. The basic idea and technology does not seem complex - just the implementation is the tricky part I guess... What about electrically spooled turbos? where the shaft is spun up by an electric motor at low rpm. Rumours are that the next GT-R, and maybe even before that, the next Mazda RX-8 may have this technology. Must be possible for HKS and the like to be able to jump the gun a little there too?

see my post.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...4&postcount=250 off to repco son..

Sounds more and more like fueling issue.. mine was same sort of thing.. would die at low revs.. once got going was ok, but could cutout at the drop of a hat. Took me a week of trying nearly everything to diagnose it. Unfortunately I didn't have a scan tool to look at sensor voltages, etc correctly (something i must get soon) - but i think if you monitored duty cycle you'd see it suddenly dropping off before the engine cuts out My ECU was reading same "all fine" even while the problem was occurring.. the stock ecu is not going to tell you a fuelling problem basically... as i don't think its part of the monitoring loop (unfortunately) p.s. a fuel pump can still make noise, even if its fooked.

you need to bolt a turbo kit on.. so you can drive slower..

eXc.. I actually installed a set of bilsetins over the weekend onto my R32, used the standard spring for now.. setting them 2cm below the top setting (top setting equals about the same as the nissan shocks from what i could tell) I went and measured everything once in, and interestingly enough, bang on 350mm wheel to guard measurement front and back so i am happy there. This still leaves the car about 20cm off the ground, but will not make the car *look* that much cosmetically lower (if you care, I don't too much). I could still easily fit 17's, and maybe even 18's under there and it would still have plenty of room to not have any guard rub. Its a little hard to tell how much better the ride change has effected the car though on dropping the height itself, as the shocks were replaced with the better ones. I am liking how it feels though

Sounds a bit odd the way they did the test without a screw in compression gauge. I can see how it may not be fully sealing the cylinder. just buy it.. if its the car you want, the paint is good, everything else seems pretty good (gearbox, clutch etc).. at worse its an engine strip one day... gtr engines don't last forever, so it may happen with any you buy. At $28k and you are getting a trade in on your old boys, may as well. If its an 1989/90 just be aware that the value may not hold as well as a newer GTR.. but otherwise, enjoy.

I can't see how you just "chop off" the transfer case and weld it shut.. as there must be some gears that are driving the transfer case there.. ?? GTR's do a higher speed in 1st.. thats either the gearbox ratios or the diff ratios at play..

does anybody have contacts in the industry - group buy on making new R32 side windows? I know they are a bit curved which makes it tricky, but they must be able to be made somehow.

are we going "live" tomorrow night or the 30th? i'm keen to get out there and test my new billies in a controlled environment..

Price on adjustable front strut bar for R32 GTS-T .. 24mm size

I'm after adjustable front swaybar for R32 GTS-T.. not quite sure about size yet.. around 24mm .. so if u could get a price for that. to be honest, people are going to wary of your (0) trader rating when trying to organise a deal such as this.

I don't think you'll find age is too much of an issue on most of the things SAU does, as there are a few different age groups out there. We try and stay clear of the "fulsik" brigade..

Installation of new strut/spring Now, if you have a brand new or fully assembled coilover, it should look something like the above to start with, and you can gladly ignore all of the fiddly dissembly stuff above. One tip to aid getting back in, is to grease inside the bottom eyelet of the new strut.. and also if you like the top threads. This should allow it to slide on that little bit easier.. Start by sliding in the new strut in, pretty much the same way you removed the old one, in at an angle, through the wishbone, etc.. Stut Alignment Now this is the real bastard of the whole job, getting it back in, and aligned properly. Maybe there is some secret trick, but i wasn't finding it. Be prepared to spend about 20 mins cursing and swearing trying to get it all back into place. First you want to align the angle of the bottom eyelet of the strut with the captive stud. Now you will need to look up at the top 2x mount holes, and twist the whole spring & seat around, until the bottom eyelet is going to slide on the bottom stud.. whilst making sure the two strut top ones are angled correctly to slide through the holes in the chasis. One trick I found was to push it up through these two holes, tighen the nuts a bit (so its not going to pop out again) and then rotate the bottom of the strut to the correct angle You'll probably unfortuantely find that the bottom eyelet is sitting too low to slide on directly. So what I was having to do, was shove hard on the hub, whilst with the other hand pushing into onto that stud. Its difficult, as the hub will tend to spring up that extra 1cm without any weight on it to make it fiddly. A mate would greatly help there. Eventually you *will* get it worked out and everything will slip in with some force, and some thought, but after much cursing and swearing.. Tighten strut nuts Once the eyelet of the strut is on, shove it (or erm, bash using rubber mallet) until its right against the seat of the stud. Tighten the nut with some force, but remembering you one day might want to take it out again. Get back into the boot, and use the 12mm socket to tighten the top 2x nuts. Do a quick check to make sure its all firm, and is not going to slide around, or that you haven't missed anything obvious. DONE!! Put wheel back on, *slowly* lower the jack, and you're all done. Now for all the other 3 sides :-s Conclusion It can take about 1-2 hours to do each side if you haven't done it before, as I found out. Its a fairly easy job if you have the right tools, and once you have done the first, the rest are much easier. You'd have to probably allow yourself a full half-day to do the lot. I don't know what labour is to do something like this, but I am sure its a few hundred. Its not really tricky, but I reckon that installation cost for something like struts can be better used to pay for some replacement bushes for some other part of the suspension.. after all, the average skyline is getting on 10-15 years now - and most are starting to go.

New Strut Assembly #2 Transfer the springs across (or put on your shiney new springs), making sure the end of the coil fits against the edged bit of the spring seat. This stops the spring rotating around once on the car I think. Assemble everything in the reverse order of pulling apart your old strut.. being sure to put everything in the right order. ** I probably should mention at this point - that using some of the old rubber bushes, and especially my dodgy old boot sleeve is probably not a good idea. These can be purchased fairly easily, and cheaply from a suspension place - and if doing things properly, should be replaced whilst the opportunity is there. The dust boot seals especially stop grit and other dust getting into the shock itself which may mean a premature end of the shock. Do not as I do In my situation, its only going to be a couple of months before I get some brand new springs, so all of them are going to have to be disassembled anyhow.. The boot seals will be getting replaced then - and well, I paid next to nothing for these shocks, but I wouldn't be doing it for brand new set of shocks that might cost upwards of $1000 a set At the very least, wash the components carefully to remove any old grit/dust. I did actually do this.. but its not so obvious in the photos. Replace the top nut.. and once its back in place (about 2cm down the thread?), you can start undoing/take off the spring compressors. Here you can see it ready to be installed back in the car..

New Stut Assembly Here you can see the new shock I am installing. A bit dirty and 2nd hand, but no signs of leakage, and when on the car, working nicely. The good thing about Bilsteins is that they can always be rebuilt later on, as they are fairly common in Australia. You can see the strut top sitting next to it. Also, on my Bilsteins (not all apparently), they have grooved height adjustment, allowing you to adjust the ride height down a few cm as required. This works with a circlip arrangement which you can work off and move down or up a few notches. I decided to set them to 2cm below stock for now (they seem to go as low as 7cm), as I didn't want to go too crazy and muck up the whole ride geometry, camber, etc of my car too much.

Strut Disassembly #2 ** Before you start taking the whole thing apart, take careful note of the assembly order, as you'll have to assemble it again using the exact same order ** Basically you should have, shock/stut holding spring in place.. then plastic boot sleeve (mine were stuffed on the rear), then top rubber stopper, then ontop of this a metal plate, above that a rubber bush, the metal strut top, another rubber bush, metal plate, end nut.. There are probably proper technical names for all of these, but I don't know them :Oops: Unfortunanately I don't have a full photo of all of thse, but you can probably spot them in the other photos. Once you've slid all the above off the stut shaft, you should be able to remove the spring itself (leaving it compressed with the spring compressors if you are traffering these across)