predator

S-AFC and disconnecting your stock boost solenoid should fix that problem..

10kg I think, compared to the stock 18kg.. I weighed both before putting it on

R32's make better track cars..

I think you might be best off with the highflow rb25 turbo for your needs. Considering you are in melbourne it might be intelligent not to have something too out there incase you get pulled over. A lot of people seem to do stupider things to the rb20's, rather than the rb25's.. hence seem to think they're a weaker motor. And of course you have to allow for the increased age, but they do stand up to a lot of punishment.

you are lazy.. depends where you live.. but everytime I go on a little mountain tour, the auto bothers me.. hard to get it to stay where you want, even rowing the stupid thing like a canoe. Sometimes auto is fun shooting it around corners and things, but only if you can keep the revs up..

well just hope you get it back as *one* piece, not 500

Wasn't down the esplenade was it? Sunday afternoon (and probably a lot of other times over the weekend).. 2 cop setups about 300m apart, doing inspections on pretty much any car that looked half modified.. Seemed a bit extreme to me to have two lots doing it so close together. Somehow I managed to avoid them though, lol.. End of the financial year is rapidly approaching - careful folks

If you really get in a pickle, you can remove the top half of your inlet plenum, and then work on the bolt once its off the car.. Takes about 2-3 hours to pull apart then put back together.. enjoy

Dealer will bend you over.. they always do on a trade-in. There is no solid rule of thumb.. Nissan sports seem to hold their value a lot better than your average commodore or worse still, falcon. Just have a look at the current price of an average S15 (200sx) of around 2001 to get a bit of an idea of where the prices will be in about 4-5 years.. They were on sale for $45k I remember new for a few years.

You open up the cluster.. paint that bit.. aftermarket facia cards are available in the correct size in japan - you can get carbon fibre look, etc. So it's either one or the other. With the specco, somebody has shoved something in there too far, and it has jumped up. You can get inside and there is a spring mechanism - you kind of shove it back and you can adjust it up or down el'dodgo style. My old gauge often needs stuffing around with to get back on 0psi. sorted..

between changes yeah.. I was more talking about a dyno reading which is just done in the one gear.. Shift kit wouldn't change the power there I wouldn't have thought?

How is a shift kit going to change the actual power output lost in the gearbox?

ProfecA has more options, I think a more advanced fuzzy logic chip in there to control boost. It's also correspondingly harder to setup as it has more options (which may or may not be useful anyhow). Most people go for the profecB because of the simplicity of it.. and most report pretty good results.

Yup sure good to have it all working fine again.. I had sort of discounted fuel pump because I thought "pretty new pump, should all be fine".. I even checked it quickly, but didn't pull the whole thing out to look over it fully :-s I've taken a few photos, you can see some of the crumbly rubbish, even worse you can see it would have been clearly sucking it into the pump itself..

um, mate... could be anything! I wouldn't worry about it, until it gets here and you can investigate properly. I remember when I got the photos for mine I was looking for every hint of this and that in them, but when it got here it was all pretty much fine. Some things were a bit better than expected, some things a little worse - but nothing major.

You could also take photos of every angle with a digital camera before pulling it out. That way you can just look at the photos to see which way it all went together. Technology is a great thing

*** FINALLY FIXED!! *** Fuel pump rooted.. long version below Finally fixed the damn thing.. After trying I don't know how many things. Narrowed it (properly) down to a fueling problem. So I started with replacing the fuel pressure reg and fuel filter (hmm, JECS orignal..lol) .. but after a 15 min drive discovered it wasn't either of those things. So into the fuel tank I went. I installed a Walbro about 6 months ago - and that has been fine up until now. Checked wiring, and pump seating, appeared to be ok.. But, on checking over things closely, finally found the problem. Basically the Walbro supplied sock had crumbled (plastic - er great idea), and parts of itself appear to have sucked itself into the pump itself. It has some sort of foam stuff, but that also appears to have crumbled. A very bad design. After 6 months of use, that is inexcusable. I've always run good fuel, the tank was fairly clean, so I don't think it was anything else getting sucked in. Now I am not *entirely* sure the sock is wholy the problem (but it wouldn't help).. and I think the pump may have slowly shat itself as well. I have noticed some irregular priming sounds when turning the key over occasionally. So I am also thinking that within about 6 months the brand new Walbro has gone dicky. I knew that they were only good for about 250rwkw or so, but the long term reliability now I have some strong concerns about. My personal opinion is that *everybody* should stay clear of the Walbro pumps. It's not worth messing with, even if you may save $100 or so. Get a Bosch. So back in went the stocker unit.. Car seems to pull a lot stronger now, and all issues gone. I'm going to be getting a BOSCH next time when i actually hit the stock pump limits. Learned my lesson. I'm just glad it happened whilst my car is still running fairly mild power levels, and not once the bigger turbo was on - or it would have been goodbye rb20. p.s. rb20det and rb25det seem to have the same fpr, even though they have different part numbers.

does it on mine.. I was worried for a bit, but I think all other engine signs are fairly normal so it doesn't worry me too much. Next oil change I might run some slightly higher viscosity oil.. maybe 15W instead of 10W

there is a recent thread, either in here, or in the tutorial section on how to change them.. You get them from repco for about $15 each.. Best to change them yourself, as its pretty easy, and labour on somebody else doing it may be a bit costly seeing as its a $15 part. They are stupid RWC items if you ask me, but they have to be in GC.

There is a clutch in the compressor which basically engages and disengages from the drive mechanism (basically the belt pulley) to turn it on or off. Basically like a standard engine clutch.

yeah, just drop the exhaust off for a bit.. sounds insane

I think you would be best getting it off a blown engine .. try and find somebody who has a blown rb20 (few around) and its just sitting around waiting to be thrown out or disposed of. I've seen a few rb20 heads forsale over the last few months.. I'd say they would have the CAS still attached. Maybe you can do a deal and get them to sell the CAS - if all they are using the head for is swapping with their own. I am pretty sure they are different between rb20 to rb26.. as I was thinking that they all have different stock cams, therefore would require slightly different CAS to read them correctly. But I'm not completely sure how they work, so not so sure

It seems recently the tutorial section was opened up for just general posting, I guess to stop as much delay getting stuff in there. But I've noticed lately, there is a lot of rubbish in there, and a lot of just general questions... e.g. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=76511 I remember when it was just properly written tutorials only, and what you saw was all good information. Now its filled with a lot of crap, and you have to wade through it - therefore making the section not as good as it should be. Can we go back to some tighter moderation in there??

hmmm .. well he is not a SAU QLD regular.. but he might hang around with boost loosers a bit. so some people might know him through there.

getting 10's from a GSR lancer.. including the car? don't think so.. Good little package, but once you want to go from those 12's to 10's.. massive changes required..