predator

Unfortunately, I never have even had the chance to flog the crap out of it See the plan was to do that for another 6-12 months then put in the RB25 I have sitting here. Now I have no choice on the timing of it all. It's possible its something else, but I have thoroughly cleaned AAC valve, swapped AFM, changed O2 sensor the other week (and it was ok on that), checked all hoses.. checked plugs, cleaned plugs.. coils have no visible cracks or signs of damage. Not sure what else it could be ? I guess I could try and rebuild the rb20 once its out.. I'm going to have to buy another crapbox anyhow while I do the conversion maybe then rebuilt rb20 could go into that.. hmm.. some ideas!

Yesterday my engine died, and had to get it towed home. Has been running rougher and rougher last week. Until yesterday it was just stalling, and would idle really roughly. Soon as you put into D it would stall. Pulled things apart and run a compression test. Cylinder 3 is way down on compression (80psi vs 130psi of the others - on my gauge, which does read a bit low), and spark plug covered in visible oil. So I suspect the worse Basically engine will start, run for a bit, get gradually rougher and rougher, then die. Is it definitely the end of the engine, and anything else I can do to check? damn rb20 crap crap *sigh*

sooks.. he won't be back till monday

stick with the bosch.. walbros are just a cheap equivelent. Just because its loud, doesn't mean its stuffed. That is often perfectly natural with the Bosch pumps (and most aftermarket fuel pumps)

It can be hard to find a decent R32 exhaust.. a shop either wants buckets for their system (which may be not good for japanese car anyhow).. or straight new from japan (exxy..mostly the freight cost).. If you are on a bit of a budget its not the easiest, compared to the more common r33 exhaust. anyhow, in the end was just easier to buy one of one of the guys on here as i know their car had some good power before they needed more.. if they would hurry up and pull it off their car! been waiting so long .. hint.. whinge, etc..

cut off your feet..

I'll agree that squizz is good for nothing... Lets see how many people agree that squizz is good for nothing. Please register your interest... *here*

bov one day.. defect the next

dish washing liquid?

I was more getting how do you know their genuine reason for sale? It could have come off the boat 1 month ago and their perfectly good reason could be "my wife has just found she is pregnant"... "I am going on an overseas trip".. There could be a perfectly legit reason it is being sold a few weeks of arriving.. I am just saying its a difficult one to prove given any sale when it comes to a vehicle that is 1989 (especially GTR's) as to the reasons why the buyer is selling. Nobody is going to out and out tell you "I bought it to sell to *you* (to make a profit off)" Good stuff No guarantee.. but if the cost isn't going to work out too much differently. The only winners are those that bought an earlier heavily modified GTR that *is* reliable over time... Anyhow, depends what you want the car for.. If you are going to thrash the pants off it, like Duncan is saying, maybe a GTR is not for you as they are not the most reliable of things. Whereas you could pickup a non-GTR for around $14k, have $10k in the bank to spec it up to quite fast.. not GTR spec sure, but fun enough to not be so worried about anything happening. I made the later decision, as I just don't like having to worry too much about just a car.

drive come along stuff yes

any good salesperson will make up the questions to those stories quite easily to sell it to you! And how can you tell really?? At most they're going to have owned it for 12 months if its a recently landed 1989 model - in reality probably much less (even if they did just import it for themselves, then decide to sell).

Could mean anything, could also mean "never been boosted" but also likewise could mean "never been serviced". I think I know what would be worse!

it's a big load of crap, that's what it is.. funniest thing ever was reading that in a post for a skyline advertised on another forum, and yet he was on here bragging how his skyline had 190rwkw just a few weeks before.. When I asked him how he had 190rwkw when they are about 110rwkw from factory without raising the boost or having modified it he wasn't too happy

Stop Crying!! :kick:

damn sook, can't come to chilli because of "Birthday" or some such.. SOFT!!! suck big ones on your birthday.. cheers, gordo

BCP6ES are just standard RB30/VL ones.. they are like $10 a packet.. lol Don't you need the resistor type as to not interefere with the other engine electrics? that is what I was told anyhow. Not sure if its correct or not?

sorry... I'm out.. don't have the funds right now, need to buy some other things.

I got a pair of lucas pads for the rear of my 32.. They are a little dusty, but not overly so. No massive wear on the discs or anything like that. They seem to do the job pretty well, but just having them for rears on mine a little hard to tell definitively. I was recommended RB74 for the front, and lucas as a decent well priced pad for the rear. I really should get those rb74's on the front that have been sitting there for about 2 months to see how the whole setup goes - really just waiting for some power to get the motivation up :Oops:

Not sure how that figures.. if kids can't get insurance, they'll just drive without insurance (as many already do). What are the consequences then?

Just a quick one.. are the standard RB20DET and RB25DET fuel pressure regulators the same?? They kind of look pretty similar, just wondering if they are interchangeable and run the same rail pressure?? Was just going to give them a swap over, as my car has the fuel consumption of a small third world country right now Something else to try anyway.

maybe he has got some japanese hottie, and can't make it out of bed or something

er.. not.. red and blue generally don't go well together.. just add a splash of white there and you'd have the good ol' us of a (or australia too I guess!). I'd paint the gearstick around the same blue, get a black/silver or dark blue steering wheel, and well ignore the seat for now..

that's ben's (twoquik) one..

supras are starting to look a bit dated ..