predator

Gasket is copper and looked to be in good condition, so left it. It probably should be replaced, but I am pulling the current turbo off and replacing it all in a couple of months anyhow. 22mm is perfect fit.. 21mm is too small. well for the record, I think it has done sweet F.A. for my fuel consumption.. just last day 8L for 50km (16L/100km ) which is on par as previously.. Reset the ECU too. We'll see how it goes over time.

I wouldn't worry about it.. This sort of thing has been going on for 40 years, maybe more. Now there is just a media fascination about it, so all of a sudden these hoons are "taking over the streets". When probably its no worse than before. Simply put, other more important issues in society people have got bored of try to solve, as there are no real solutions, this seems like the latest obsession to be "fixed". When it comes down to it, I'd say a massive percentage still live at home, sponging off their parents, spending their money on cars rather than rent, bills, etc which most others have to pay. How many hoons live out of home, have real responsilities, real bills to take care of, etc?? Not that many. Most are spoilt little overaged kids, bored senseless, and without any sense of respect for others, having not lived with others, and while probably working a well paid job, still get all the more difficult things provided for them at home. Parents should kick em out of home I reckon, not let them leech on till age 25, etc simply so they can have the good things in life, which they probably don't appreciate anyhow. Of course not many on here would be a "hoon", but how many still live at home? Over the years I reckon its close to about 75% (over 50% anyhow).. I am sure this is maybe controvercial, but is it true? :wassup:

have you tried replacing the AFM.. or check the plug there. Sounds like possible symptoms..

I think most of them do that a little bit.. mine does. I changed the AFM recently (not much difference), cleaned out AAC valve a few weeks ago. It runs perfectly smooth some times, few misses at others, but nothing consistent. Its nothing terrible, and I think it will have to be the compromise. If you are running a gap at 0.8mm maybe that is not good for idle - but you need it for running boost at higher revs. I'd rather have it idling a tiny bit rough occasionally, than missing under boost.

Found a socket that would fit over.. 22mm long one - Repco brand from Repco.. You have to cut the wires close to the base of the original o2 sensor and hammer on though and it just fits over (this probably destroys the original sensor. .. In the end though, there still wasn't enough leverage to get it off. I had to remove the whole dump and front pipe off from the turbo. Ended up snapping two bolts there, unfortunately they would have snapped I think no matter what being 15 years old. To actually get it off the dump wasn't so easy off the car either! Was surfing the front pipe, putting whole body behind breaker bar, before it *finally* came free (shit of a thing). Anyhow, wired up the new sensor (using spade connectors - hope they hold up ok).. and slotted in, appears to work fine. Think I now have an exhaust leak as didn't tighten up the dump tight enough..grr.. but otherwise the sensor appears to be working. Was a **** to take off the whole dump, but at least most things are lose now, when I go to fit a new 3" dump soon.

Put me down for tentative on boost controller.. as long as payment is in a couple of weeks.

mine is now sold unfortunately.

wiper assembly is 2kg.. I used a rubber bung.. looks the goods, although mind you a sticker was the next option. get them out of the boot wells . I think mine came out of the R31, or was it the r33.. anyhow. one of them, I had a few sitting around - perfect fit. wasn't so much for weight reduction in my case, wiper was borked. You'll find the heater box is around 5kg.. probably the fan another couple of kg.. Compressor is 9kg, and a few other aircon bits probably pull that up to around 15kg. I'm not sure whether you can nick the side mirrors off for racing - but they are 2kg each. They dash mould itself is about 8kg..

:werd:

Had a try of installing mine before.. well I'm officially naming them **** pipes.. A 7/8" spanner fits the sensor thread, but there is no room to get it flat to manevour, and mine is 15 years tight.. I think its really a 22mm thread but stuffed if you can buy a 22mm spanner.. and my adjustable is too chunky. So its not budging. Did think I could I could bend the base of the spanner 70deg or so to angle get a better grip, but i had to buy a good quality spanner didn't I... I could heat it and bend it, but no idea whether that will work still. So looks like I'm going to have to remove the whole **** pipe and try and remove it once the dump is off.. may as well just damn well buy a whole new dump pipe seeing as its all off anyhow and fit that..grrr!

not sure.. during the track days you are moving at high speed, plenty of airflow. At rest between runs you stop and pop the bonnet to let out the underbonnet temps a little. If anything your car stays cooler than traffic. Depends how many laps you are doing I guess each set. if your car is pinging on stock boost, etc - you've got problems..

I've used australia post for probably close to 100 items, never had a problem. A lot of people label stuff incorrect, have shithouse handwriting, don't provide a return address, package poorly, etc, etc. Wouldn't surprise me its people's own fault half the time.

From reading a few reports on here, the Kings aren't a good match for the Bilsteins and will sit too low. Seems like the bilsteins are good shocks, but everybody seems to have trouble getting springs to correctly match them?? So you saying Roy the whiteline springs + bilsteins haven't been great for you? I'm getting a set of 2nd hand bilsteins in a week or so, and plan on running them with the factory springs for a while, until I work out what to do regarding the springs. Anyhow, once I get them in, I can let you know the difference. It's not costing me much, so its a cheap experiment. If it's all shithouse I'm thinking of later on maybe going for the new TEIN superstreet coilovers, that quite a few dealers are being g'ed up to start selling soon. Supposedly they have been revalved and better suited to aussie conditions than the equivelent Japanese rocks - whether this really stacks up is debateable. Price is around $1500 fitted I have been told... which is very good for something with good adjustability and nice local backed warranty.

jaycar are pretty good amps, and the new ones are getting some very good reviews.. I'm running one of their older 300wRMS monoblocks in my line to power my 12", and its been great over the last couple of years.

tentatively interested.. funkymonkey can get better prices .. not sure whether he could for these.

I have one of my R32.. $70 I could send it to melbourne express post for you. just for ref.. R32 and R33 (series1) are exactly the same AFM.

next step is probably that on my car... Anybody have any ideas of whether its a good idea to block off the stock entry, or keeping that as well as a secondary?? I am thinking of cutting a circle (proper circle this time ) in the bottom of box, and running hose through the old intercooler piping hole to front bar. But not sure whether I should leave, or block off the front (stock) hole. Will one "port of entry" so to speak result in more air getting sucked into the box? or will 2x holes result in more flow?

I would try blocking the BOV temporarily just to test.. The odds of permanent damage just to test for a little while aren't massive. Often a failure to reach full boost (or reach rapidly) from what I've find can depend on ambient air temperature, amount of cool air getting to your filter (compared to hot air of engine bay), exhaust too small/restrictive, slight miss, or leaking or blocked hoses. Its basically a restriction on the turbo doing what it is set to be doing. Also the tune can matter as well. I found that in my old r33, that running low boost (say 11 instead of 12-13) and getting an agressive tune resulted in more consistent boost in different temperatures and conditions. It may have been that there was some component letting the system down (quite likely), but in the end that was the best solution. What's your clutch like? Are you dropping revs also, or just boost? p.s. i have a stock r33 bov for sale.. if u do find its the bov

I disagree.. sure on paper the daily seems like a waste. But there a lot of other factors. Depends where you live. I paid $1500 for R31 (again a good choice for daily, although I am sure there are plenty of dodgy ones).. 3rd party was $220 a year. Extra rego was expensive true @ around $640 a year. You have to add maintenance costs, but if you do your own, and obviously a cheap daily doesn't require any quality servicing materials.. In the end, I sold the daily for $100 more than I bought it for 12 months later (should have never sold it ) So lets say close to low $1000 a year to keep that car on the road. Therefore if your "main" car costs you $1000 above and beyond the skyline, its worthwhile if you ask me. One accident could truly destroy your year in the expensive car, with a $1000 excess. In the daily you'd just fix it or not care. If you drive the main car less, you can probably get away with 3rd party as its not going to be parked in dodgy areas, less likely to be involved in accident, you're driving it less. Never discount the *stress factor* of worrying where to park it, some turd keys the whole side (who do you claim insurance against then? your rating goes down).. that piece of mind is worth big dollars in my book. Nothing ever happens to a car you don't care about anyhow, no matter how hard you try. Now my aussie R31 got about 12L/100km (new o2 sensor), and thats not even an economical car compared to say a small 1.6L hatch which may get 8-10L/100km.. I just drove it anywhere, drove about 30,000km in one year (I drive a lot). Say a reasonable modified skyline gets 14L/100km. Thats a 600L difference a year = 600 x $1L avg = $600. oh yeah, the daily can use regular rather than premium, 5c/L cheaper there.. you can fill up on budget safeway rubbish which may work out a bit cheaper too. The difference in financial terms was marginal, but if anything did happen I was always ontop, as on the odds, daily got used 80% of time, other car 20%.. If something bad happened, 80% chance of it happening in the daily. Think about the cost of depreciation on the more expensive skyline with extra km on the clock as well. I want to pull out the engine out of my car this year.. It might be off the road for a month. How do I do that if I don't have another car to drive around?

that car is ful accident mayte!!

mine was starting to do that quite a bit.. going from higher speeds to low speed turns, revs would dip, then jump up. Sometimes they wouldn't jump up enoigh and it would stall. Changed AFM over the weekend.. problem fixed. The other one was dirty I'd imagine.

this is wrong area... but around $23k or so.. you've probably spent way more than that, but with stock(ish) r33 hovering around $16k.. Not many people seem to want to pay a good price for that "extra modified" car anymore. Or people will go spend $25k on an old stock GTR, which is going to cost them a lot more than that in the long run nor be as reliable (but they don't care). If you ask any more than mid-20's max, I have a feeling you could be waiting a fair while to sell it. Everybody seems to be asking for as stock as possible - scaredy cats!

Could be to do with the R33 ECU being very prone to dropping timing when intake temps get up. Seems like the R32 doesn't mind so much? I just bled up my boost to 13psi after fitting my front mount, but I can barely feel any noticeable difference as everything else is stock bar a k&n panel filter. It just drops most of the boost anyhow back to 10psi. Needs exhaust, needs better airflow to the filter...blah. In other words, raising the boost by itself is pretty pointless.

Type M is where its at.. I've worked out why mine has had to poke through at the bottom there, its because the non type-m slopes back a lot more at the bottom, where as the "type m" is more flat at the front. I think I'll have to give it another try in 6 months or something with a proper mspec bar.

This thing? This one is in my car but not forsale, but just wondering what you are talking about..