predator

That's not too bad really.. Make sure you attend to it fairly quickly, as the thing can flex, leading to the crack spreading. Some fibreglass resin will fix it and some sandpaper. If you can repair the damage, and get somebody to paint it, that would be your cheapest option.

Meggala has an rb20det wiring diagram on his site.. Not sure if that will help?? http://meggala.com/R32wiring.zip and this.. http://www.meggala.com/rb25detenglish.html

you don't need a fmic if your car is fairly stock.. I've been to a track day on a hot day without probs, but I wouldn't be running higher boost without some risk. p.s. I did stereo before FMIC and most other things myself - considering you drive the car everyday, its something that rewards every day

Even though I have just installed a cheap version myself.. I'd tend to agree with you 600hp. I'd like to hear some comments from people running 400hp+ and/or high boost levels and whether they still think they are that good. My view is that it's just a way to get a cheap intercooler and keep intake temps down enough until it becomes a weakness. Then you upgrade it again, just like anything else.

I have basically 2x sets of R32 intercooler stock setups. Probably not much interest, but maybe you need to go back to stock for some reason(?).. One has pretty much everything you need: intercooler, 90deg bend, 1x 45deg bend, rubber hose, and long curvy twisty pipe (technical name) The other has all the above, just minus the twisty pipe, so intercooler, 1x 45 deg bend, 1x 90deg bend, and rubber hose. Asking $80 for the complete one.. and $60 for the one missing the twisty pipe. Or offers close to.. Also have R32/R33 stock BOV on its own: $40 Let me know if interested. I'm on the goldcoast. You pay for postage. Here is a picture of the piping.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=37655

you are meant to be posting a price on the parts.. then people may offer a price on these parts.. that is the way it works around here. Look around some old threads for the price for some of the gear.

There is nothing wrong with GTR brakes at all. If anything, skyline brakes (across the series) are very well matched for well above the factory power. If he has had an accident, and blaming the brakes, then

lol -- yeah, that does look good. Mine is non-mspec anyhow, so not sure whether there are differences there in the bar but it wasn't easy. I think my biggest problem may be using a cheap ass cooler .. but it shouldn't matter for the near future. Worth trying, if it doesn't work satisfactorarily as I head up in the power, I'll go for a brand kit when I have a bit more money... oh, and maybe a larger front bar! I wouldn't want to be any pedestrian hit by me at any speed! if you are hitting them with enough speed to smash through the plastic, and into that, they are well and truly...well, not good anyhow. Lets face it, if you hit a pedestrian at more than 30km/hr they are dead (facing facts here) You'll find probably the majority have cut the support bar to fit their intercooler (even though its probably not necessary)

with ground clearance.. I've just been looking at the threads on DIY under method - thats what turned me off a bit.. I guess there are different ways to do it. This pic.. and this pic..

why do you need to remove the ball joint to change just the boots?? :confused:

I Just wondering why Apexi, HKS, Trust, etc for the most part use that method. If it was so bad, they wouldn't be using it? As it means more pipes to produce. It makes getting access to the CAS a bit painful though but there is plenty of clearance around the fan (which has the shroud anyhow). Not that I really care about the bling in my car too much, but the stainless is very bright and attention grabbing in the engine bay. I had a HKS "over" kit in my old car, and don't think there was too much issues with that. lol.. true. It was perfectly square at one point, but unfortunately I had issues with the piping that I got (hence that 2nd black join), and had to make it more retangular to angle the piping. Some rubber around the edge will neaten things up later I hope. A circular hole would be nicer, if you know exactly where to cut and have the right tool... I have a feeling I would have had several holes along trying to get it exact and right for the piping. Nobody can really see it from that angle, and from the engine bay it looks ok. To be honest, there is no real way to make the whole thing look "neat" utilising the stock bar, as so much cutting is required.. an aftermarket bar (maybe one day) will change things there, although I do like the plastic. Some could claim such a hole weakens the chasis, but there are two such holes over the other side for the stock piping, and the chasis rail is underneath still. I cannot see that being an issue in reality. I'm not sure about less bends (probably about same), nor length (its about the same, if its shorter it would not be a massive amount). But I do agree about the heat somewhat.. however there was talk previously about how moving air will not be sitting long enough to be heated in the piping setup itself. What is over is just under, and you have a large 180deg turn in there.. What I don't like about that look is often you an see the pipework trailing under the cooler. Also it lowers the ground clearance by a couple of centimeters. With roads the way they are, one big dip at 100km/hr could be very painful. I've killed 2x front bars on my 10cm (legal height) R33, clearance is important to me and the way I drive. You also have on the RHS a nice space to run a decent cold air feed from the front bar direct to your airbox, whereas if you do the "under" method this makes things difficult. Those are just my thoughts too. Maybe I'm just justifying them to myself, but I did think about them

cubes: do you even have a support bar? how you getting cool air to the top of the cooler? You don't necessarily *have* to cut the support bar, but it will block the cool air to the top.. although my number plate does that quite nicely (but can be removed for drag or track days)

pod exposed is bad idea.. sucking up water, will, and has destroyed engines. I just finished my intercooler install today.. mine was slightly smaller (450x300x75) but a 600x300x75 one would fit. All you'll have to do is cut the support bar, and bar a bit wider than what you see in the photos below. What will annoy you most is cutting the front bar satisfactory to get it all on - took me quite a few hours (too many!). You just have to cut bits out, piece by piece. If you go the "up and over" piping, you will need to cut a hole just under your battery. If you use the "back and under" piping (to me thats a bit messy), you won't need to. (bit dark sorry, will take another pic tomorrow)

it's a PSP.. anyhow, stop trying to sell these for profit aussieworld.. where is the damn "report this post" on this area?!

Whilst the 100's are nicer.. I reckon the 90's in many ways have much of the same qualities about them, and that much cheaper. They don't look that much different on the inside, and pretty much slightly older revision of the same engine...with a few power upgrades I couldn't imagine them being too different to drive.

The stock "dump pipe" - or one off the turbo has the O2 sensor.. unless you have an aftermarket one (not all aftermarket are one piece). Usually the factory ones are cast and have a browny/reddy colour by now. If your stock dump pipe is still factory, I would say thats probably an obvious restriction..

http://www.realcommercial.com.au/ is better..because i designed it..

lol..yup.. remove battery.. replace.. if u are lucky your alternator is farked too..

h0ndas are gaey

I've got.. $100 the lot (cross over, BOV, piping, stock cooler) - when u want? I'm in southport. I just have to finish my fmic fit.. hopefully tomorrow.. number is 0417 016 326..

offtopic there sexzila.. but this should help u a bit, depending on what car you are talking about.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ight=r32+brakes

:confused:

yeah, its an interesting tint on the windows isn't it thats seems like the way things are going. .sounds like in vic you have to have a dedicated track car, and a shitbox/death/pollution machine for street these days.

Thanks for the pointers duncan, quite useful. Yeah, the front was shocking - hence the massive shaking at anything over 100km/hr. It was getting almost undriveable. I guess that is one of the things about getting an old car car direct from japan, you are almost guaranteed not much has been serviced too well, esp. in the suspension stakes. But the car is handling much better and I can push it around a lot more. The next step will be upping the power, where the handling, or lack of will be more noticeable and I can decide what to do next. Next track day is a couple of months away, but that will be another good chance to test it all out properly.

last owner must have driven it a bit like a granny then.. sounds like some fun though once it is all finished.