predator

Introduction Ok, I've just spent an hour drawing this up. So hope its useful for you guys! This is basically the exact plan of the spacers you will need to make up to fit either 6.5", 6", smaller, and probably larger ones, in the front doors of an R32. If you are *not* using 6.5" speakers (and not all 6.5" are exactly the same size), ignore the speaker cutout on the schematics, and circle in your own Material I used 16mm MDF, which allowed me to mount my 6.5" splits with a depth of 66.2mm with clearance of about 10mm - 15mm left to the window when down. 16mm *just* allowed me to clip the doorskins back over, and pop the corner toggle in but it was very very close. To be more comfortable I'd probably go for 14mm or even 12mm MDF. But then if you go too narrow, you may have fouling issues with your window, depending on the depth of your speakers used. So you may have to find the best compromise The schematics I have included two formats, one is standard GIF.. the other is industry standard EPS , for import into any vector program. The GIF is done in 300dpi, so please set your printer, or program to this when printing to get the dimensions all correct. To use these, basically you *should* (although haven't tested myself yet) fit this onto 1x A4 sheet in landscape, as long as your printer can print right to the edge of the page . The dimensions of each edge are marked, so once printed, get out the ruler and check. If your "160mm" matches the 160mm in the diagram, then you are on the right track! * The overall max dimensions are 258mm length x 204mm height (that is from largest point to point). I didn't have room to include this on the GIF version unfortunately * Application This involved a lot of trial and error, and me stuffing around, so this should save you a lot of time. Simply print, cutout to size, and then trace onto your MDF. Get out the jigsaw, and get to work. Drill out the main screw/attach points as marked. You will need 12g screws for the mount points.. I used 12g x 30mm self tapper screws which fit fine. If you are using 6.5" splits, jigsaw out the center hole (I used a line of drill points to allow the jigsaw to get in there). If using another size, use the template that comes with your speakers, or make your own on paper with a compass to the correct diameter. The files! Here is the GIF version (300dpi): http://www.project32.net/misc/r32_spacer.gif Here is the EPS (Illustrator 8 compatible) version: http://www.project32.net/misc/r32_spacer.zip

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I would probably go the front pipe (heat wrapped).. so you have 3" from the turbo right back. Then possibly consider a Jaycar DFA + EBC .. and probably a cheap intercooler.. (piping would blow over the budget however). You can then boost up the turbo to 12-14psi and get some good power. That would hit about $1200 if you were doing the labour yourself. After that when you get bored of that, you will be well placed to do a proper aftermarket/retuned ECU and larger turbo.

a lot of the coolers these days have threaded screw points in the top, so its simply a matter of finding the right bolts and using those, in conjunction with some metal brackets (which you may have to build yourself out of sheet metal, cladding, etc), attaching this to the chasis at a suitable point.

170km/hr or so when you run out of 4th in the old r33 manual i don't think i ever really used it too much, except when on the freeways at 100km/hr (even then thats the top of 3rd if you are really hammering it).. but that was melbourne/crapville. I used to see 5th as the "sleep gear" - leave it and you tended to nod off .. :headspin:

what happened to ur rb25 shan?

For front, I would really use anything other than the bottom radiator support for jack stands. When jacking, I tend to use the tow points, as they are welded to the end of the chasis rails and come down nice and low, and obviously are designed for a weight bearing load.

Price drop to $350 inc post to anywhere in Oz .. and I've uploaded some photos. just want the cash..

skyline is a great balanced car all round and very reliable, no matter whether it has power or not..

if you take it to court and have a valid statute though (in this case ADR compliance book) then I cannot see how the police could ever win the case..

I wouldn't have thought one or two bubbles would lead to the "pedal completely to the floor" syndrome.. sure sponginess, and not optimal, but not completely no brake pressure.

mine was within about $100.. The GTR thing is pretty easy.. those with money don't want that sort of car.. and these days there is more cop presence and hassles (esp. vic) as there are just generally more imports around. Most also know the car is going to depreciate a heap, and hence will spend the money on something more meaningful such a property or other investment. It's no longer than 'special' to own a GTR and the age of them is now getting on 10 years for most, so the once elite status of them has gone too.. "you have a 10 year old car that cost you $40,000??!! er great"

are you building a bat mobile josh? manufacturer cars are subjected to all sorts of crash and other procedures that costs tens of thousands of dollars, they destroy sample cars, impact / destroy each item from multiple angles etc. Its a lot more complex that simply joe bloggs making one and it getting approved. Depending on the car, I believe you can get aluminium ones from japan for bickies

happy birthday big boy. nobody likes you. (thxbie)

:bs!: there are not that many new 15 year cars on our roads, come on.. If there was that number they would be everywhere. I'll be lucky to see any R32 in one given day, never mind a cefiro or any of the others.. it's possible there are a large number commercial vehicles, 4WD or something like that getting around I wouldn't have noticed - but not your general "sports type" import. You'd probably be the rarity.. I'd say about 90% sell their import within the first 12-18 months of ownership. Some are lucky to see out even 6 months. There are not many "long term" import owners out there, who have owned the same car for more than about 2 years.

might not be BOV.. could be a vacuum leak from somewhere else. I'd suggest getting out, and giving it a couple of quick revs. Sometimes if its bad you can even hear where it's coming from. Otherwise, feel your finger around the vacuum hoses whilst doing revs (carefully obviously), and see if you can feel anything. Usually as its fairly pressurised, it will be easy to feel..

I've got one in good condition.. next to no shaft play.. comes with actuator, and intake pipe (but no water/oil lines) - $350+post sorry - but why would anybody want to downgrade to an rb20 turbo??

Its the one with "warning - don't open when hot" near the front of the plenum. I generally loosen it after putting new fluid in, but I find just running with the radiator cap off and giving it a few revs does much the same thing.

they are lot stricter over there, it has to go through a full inspection at the transport place before it can hit the road.. here they barely even look under the bonnet.

I would have thought when the turbo was glowing if that was the case, the compressor wheel would melt off if it was nylon as well.. but it doesn't. I don't know what this nylon business is, I've had 2x RB25 turbos (one v3 and one v4) and neither has it .. and the V4 was supposedly S2, whereas the v3 supposedly s1 and no difference to my eyes. The rear was what looked to be ceramic, and the front steel. All that I have seen to look different is the R34 ones.. show me a picture of a S2 with a version number and i will believe it.

twin plates can often snap gearboxes, diffs, transfer cases and the like.. Unless you have over 300rwkw I don't think its worth the damage to the rest of the car, never mind the driveability. There are plenty of great products sold locally new here that would be equal to much of the japanese stuff, personally I'd just be going for one of them.

trial and error.. or read back a page and get the wiring chart I put up...