predator

I think there is.. but if i were you i'd just do yourself a favour (and the car) and drill where the water appears to be pooling.. rather than find out later on that its rusted through. A small drill hole can make a huge difference, and won't destroy any part of the car. I've killed rust dead in other cars just by doing that. drill hole, rust killer, and never to be rusted ever again. You can try and find the source also, although that can be diffiult. Usually in an R33 it slides down into just near the hinges and pools there. eventually to slide down and into the boot later on.

awww.. narkies making child porn.. how cute..

after stuffed water lines for rb25 turbo... let me know.. don't want to pay too much .. just if u can have some sitting around you're about to throw out or something like that. I need some to test some fitment.

60'?? j/t ? times plz..

japanese build 1000hp GTR all the time.. can't be too hard (notice the tongue out). they often only use a 2.6 block too.

well i deposited monday.. so should be in now as was CBA -> CBA

in melbourne? you're funny..

ba :bs!: there is no solid rule which is good or bad. A car in japan could sit outside for years, have been inside, be up north, be down south, an ex race-car.. who the hells knows. At least you can inspect the car, or get somebody who knows what they are doing to do so here.. can't do that in japan. It seems a little high for essentially a stocker, but you're not going to find much better from a dealer. Dealer cars up here are always fairly exxy. Why not buy one from a member sold on here?.. smoothline has a very nice white gts-t which he would sell for below that and would be much faster, and have quite a few mods and you can speak to him about a 2 year history. One aussie owner.

I have always wondered why the adjustable rods have no form of bushings on them, like the stock items... Will this cause any damage to where they bolt in? they just kind of look like they are sitting "loose" in that space there. Which is better, having adjustable bushes with offset adjustment to alter camber or the separate adjustable arms (like the above photos) ? There is about a $150 price difference..

will redline actually increase the life and strength of the tranny? say would it allow rb20det gearbox to last longer behind an rb25det ?

did u have trouble aligning the clutch? or did u find it fairly straight forward?

u can crimp some spade connectors onto the wiring and connect them up that way. my rb25 seems to have that arrangement for one of the coils.. if u like i can take photos. nissan apparently has plugs though..

there is a lot of "I've heard...", "don't bother", "it won't work", "waste of time".. etc - but not many facts or actual examples.. I am sure its good for 200rwkw without too much dramas and proper tuning. It's done in japan quite a bit. If you are doing the n/a.. you could always go in with the "who cares if it blows".. and if that times comes just replace the bottom end with a built rb30 bottom.. as you'd already have the top and loom in place then. In your case you already have all the decent turbo support systems (gearbox, clutch, diff, brakes, etc) so it might not be so stupid. if you are swapping in an rb25 though, that does seem a little pointless just to swap in the n/a version, when for maybe $1000-2k more you can get the turbo version which will last no questions.

I think part of it would be the fact that there are no new turbo charged vehicles getting released in Japan to fill the void. None of the new n/a models are as popular as some of the older models, and there is nothing to fill that gap, making the older models more popular than they otherwise would have otherwise had been.. those who want something with a large amount of tuning potential that isn't too old. I would say increased demand from the rest of the world may also add to this (some countries only able to import cars less than 10 years old, etc).

pack n send expensive.. some prices will make your jaw drop. But its a limited market for the private individual. Toll is decent.. I sent a head from QLD to NSW at reasonable price, however some small damage (and was packed in cardboard).. Can't say enough for Australia post. Never lost anything. Prices are reasonable if not the best. It's just a pity their maximum size is a little too small for many car parts. 1.4m in length I believe, which counts out front bars, etc.

cheeky! roy will only burn or somehow manage to destroy his one anyhow.. it would be much better put to use by myself rather than him

well thankfully a stock auto R33 should be able to reach that ET quite easily, probably before you even start modifying things. 4 cylinders can be deceptive in that they feel faster than they actually are, because they make a lot more noise and revs to get to the same speeds. I stepped from a fair modified (not fully modified) R33 manual, back into a stock as auto R32 recently.. and there is a huge difference between a stock car and one with even a few mods. And the auto can seem very slow at first.. But I always was going to convert it to manual. There are a few people getting good 13 second times from an R33 auto without upgrading the turbo, just with good tyre and suspension setup and basics things like u are talking about with the exhaust, intercooler, etc. you have to ask yourself, what do *you* really want - a manual or auto. Because you should probably go with what you are really after to start with, even if it costs a little more. Are you going to be driving the car in traffic every day? to work? for long drives, in the mountains, a racetrack one day, etc, etc. An auto conversion can be un-noticeable from a factory manual if done correctly.. it just may not be too cheap, and its always a pain knowing that you have to not have the car on the road for a week or two whilst its done.

no r33 or r32 gear.. was there the other day.

I would said the full test.. they take it into the McLeod station, shove the sensor up your batty (exhaust) and check for CO and levels. The cops down there hand them out like candy. The only thing about remaps that I am suspicious of, is sending off the ECU for a proper tune until they actually have the car on the dyno, or have driven the car itself.

I have dealt with probably 50+ internet transactions and never have been jibbed. Using your brain rather than COD is the best solution.. In fact I would in fact.. be more suspicious on COD. Who knows who works in the post office itself, or has the connections.

I have rear belts.. for R32 - the factory nissan items from japan (not ADR belts however). If they are ok, then let me know, and I can post. I think in WA you can get by with leaving in the Japanese belts, but you will need to check.

bump

u totally missed the joke...

360's are fun! i'll admit I used to learn skid control just through losing the ass in the wet intentionally in my early days.. but that wasn't a $20k car..

lifespan of a cat is about 5 years, after that they become useless.. and can actually impede flow. Sure, they might *look* fine, but the honeycomb material is involved in a chemical reaction in converting the CO (and whatever other chemicals it is engineered to attract).. once its spent, no more cat reaction = cat useless..