predator

Like they say, more voltage = better... however the last two pumps (one walbro, one bosch) I have installed I have had no troubles with the stock wiring at levels below 200rwkw. I guess if I was pushing the power past that, it would be something to consider. You can always stick a multimeter on it on the dyno at full chat, see what is happening.

They're meant to be 170 (or is it 178psi?) from what I can remember. It's on here somewhere.

bump.. if you read my other thread: tested headgasket - appears to be just muck in the radiator. Flushed the system and appears to be fine.

That's very close to what both my RB20's tested at recently.. My gauge has always read low, and seems to read 130psi on a healthy engine. So I wouldn't be too worried. As long as they are within 10% everything should be fairly fine.

So you are talking about one to Fuel Pressure regulator I assume? If you have the right hose, it should just go slip on with some force. You could always heat the hose in some boiling water to get it soft so that it squeezes on a bit better.

I had my rb25 turbo forsale for about 2-3 months and nobody was interested was in good condition too.. but it is now sold..

well QLD is one of the only states NOT to have had them.. and most states has had them for a decade or more. I found it very odd that QLD didn't have them when i moved up. Anybody on P's who has an import is really screwed now though.. they have something to clearly look out for and pick on. They do it in the other states, so it will happen here. Saves them trouble.

we did the sprint circuit.. as potholes apparently in the clubman end of the track..

i'll prolly take em sam.. but post the pix so I can just have a quick look -gordo

u know you want another r32 narki.. show him he wants one roy

Do a search in maintenance and/or the FAQ section for "heater core".. I posted up a guide on how to replace the whole lot, pull your dash apart, etc.

great.. now go do something useful and sell my Passage for me..

insurance on anything that you *want* will be very expensive... as some other p-plater has had the same idea before you..

Just check it.. I didn't change mine for about 2 months, even when it got here (although I didn't drive it much). The exhaust will probably smell like crap because of the old oil, but once you change it, should be back to normal. But wouldn't be fanging it. If the oil has broken down over time, it's only likely to get worse when booted.

mm, problem is the car isn't registered, so I can't take it anywhere.

hmmm.. well I think the new ones look pretty cool actually. It's the weight balance that separates them on the twisties. The new ones will have the option of a 2L engine...now that would be a nice jigga, even before you do too much to it. They had to change it one way or another. Flared guards give it a new dimension and matches with the new Mazda6, RX8, etc, etc look they are going with now.

Here you can find it. http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/qt/driver....dex/vehiclemods If everybody downloaded one of them, printed it out, and carried one around in case they get pulled over, could save some headaches.

Nuremberg is awesome!! I love the narrowness and the long straights with hills. I did think the $100k from GT3 did take part of the initial challenge of the start, but $100k really only got me a GTR and did that up to the nine's. It's not really enough to win anything more than the beginner tracks though. Should have probably gone for something else. Notice how the GTR's braking is very crap? It should have some of the best braking with the Brembo's, but it doesn't

just checking the "QLD guide to modifications" (751kb).. in which it states what you are allowed to do with tyres.. The rim diameter may be varied from the standard size but the overall diameter of the tyre must not vary by more than +15 mm or -26 mm. These limits have been set for a number of reasons. Varying the overall diameter of tyres affects ground clearance, centre of gravity, brake effectiveness, steering geometry, performance and speedometer accuracy. Generally, to meet these limits, 60 series tyres are fitted to rims with a diameter increase of 26 mm larger than standard and 50 series tyres are fitted to rims with a diameter 50 mm larger than standard. and.. The maximum tyre width must not be more than 1.3 times wider than the vehicle manufacturer’s widest optional tyre. However, in the case of off-road passenger vehicles fitted with front and rear beam axles, the maximum tyre width must not be more than 1.5 times larger than the manufacturer’s widest optional tyre.

it's actually not a defect having 2mm wider tyres.. you are allowed to fit what you like as long as its not more than 2" than the widest tyre available for that model. Do you mean 2cm wider diameter?

All cylinders were around 130psi give or take 5%.. my gauge always reads about 130psi on previous engines that have been in good condition. So will that mean it is not the head gasket? I drained a fair bit of water whilst removing the hose.. no sign of oil in there. It just foams up the top which almost looks a bit browny (although that could be a bit of rust) I did mix coolants the other day (i know you're not *meant to*) - because the hose was leaking I just had to top it up with some other coolant lying around go get by.. could there be a chemical reaction going on between the different coolants? There hasn't been any signs of abnormal heat in the engine or anything like that recently. As you can see I'm almost half way there (replacing a bad water hose) underneath plenum. So if is head gasket, maybe will just leave it apart and do the whole lot.

I was thinking just taking off turbo and leaving the ex manifold on too to make that easier Intake manifold will be fun however. I am not too sure at this stage, as I just stuck the compression meter in a couple of cylinders and it's not massively down. Should I check all cylinders?

Just a quick one.. Thing the headgasket may possibly be gone in one of my cars. Doesn't seem to be oil, but lot of bubbles. I know one of the coolant lines is split - could this be introducing air into the radiator?? If I need to, can I replace the headgasket without removing the whole engine? I am thinking I can just remove the head, replace the gasket, then bolt the head back in, whilst the block stays in the engine bay. Is this achieveable? How much is a replacement nissan genuine (or close to it) RB20DET gasket these days? Thanks.

don't forget that guy is running a GTS4 (which he should have mentioned! ) There is another thread on all of this (possibly in forced induction).. but basically fitting the GTR diff is *not* a straight fit due to the different splines.