predator

I gave a couple of mine away.. they aren't that special..

no swaps... like I said, it's mainly for financial reasons so I need the cash. But if can't get a good price I'll just keep it and do it up myself, just will take a long time to get there. just sell your existing car first not many people take swaps.

It's pretty painful to have to do this, but unfortunately due to current financial difficulty I think I have to. There is just not enough room in my wallet for two project cars in my life at the moment That said, that I'm not desperate to sell unless I get what I'm after. 1985 HR31 Skyline Passage GT * Munroe shocks rear * White * ACDthree (Nissan sports) mudflaps and boot spoiler * 3" exhaust straight through * RB20DET silvertop engine in good condition * 5 speed manual (rb20 gearbox in EC).. clutch in GC. * Speco boost gauge. * Aircon works a tiny bit, will need new gas. * Electric everything that even most of the newer models don't have - this includes seats, elec windows x 4, mirrors, cruise control, auto lights on dark, power steering, etc. * S3 front bar * S3 import rear * IRS rear end with early HICAS setup Rabbiting on starts here... The good.. The car drives quite nicely, and pulls fairly hard for a close to stocker. The exhaust sounds awesome on it, and it really gives a killer RB note that will put a smile on your face. These usually come standard with a rather tired and old "redtop" 2L engine. The engine, gearbox and ECU have been swapped out of an R32 and it looks like a professional conversion. The price of just the box and engine alone would set you back probably around $2000. Heaps of room all around for daily commuting - and hey its still got 4 doors! Interior is blue.. nice and plush and IMHO nicer than some of the latter Passage trim. Paint is still excellent. No big rust spots. Few minor pin dents that can be easily repaired.. or choose a colour and still have change from $10k. Now the issues that I know about... There is some problem with the handbrake assembly in the LHS hub. Probably an easy fix, but haven't had time to fiddle with it. If not I can probably point you in the right direction for a new one. The front shocks are completely sponged. You're looking at about $500 for a nice pair of Koni adjustables for the front (The Shock Absorber Reconditioners will be able to sort you out there), or you can go a bit cheaper and get some KYB's. Extras... I'm also throwing in a 95% tread pair of 15" Sawa tyres (current rear tyres are bald) Price.. $4600 ** SOLD *** Basically I am selling this car "as is" for that price. It will probably need a few minor things for Roadworthy, and registration. But if you're willing to put a few hours in and do some running around, it's still a good price and a great project. For somewhere about $5.5k you can have it all running around nicely, which is several thousand dollars less than what a good Passage usually goes for, or anything with a silvertop RB20DET for that matter Can probably organise transport to your state for around $300 or so, but you'd probably want to fly up and check it for yourself. A weekend trip to the goldcoast is a good as excuse as any. This is a chance to own a nice japanese classic in good condition - you get as much looks driving this as a pimped up R33 or R32. Make a great daily driver, or do it up into something unique that is pretty damn orginal - there would probably be less than 50 (?) Passage's in QLD. Black tint, nice 17" rims and you've got a real attention grabber. [email protected] mobile: 0417 016 326 Here are a heap of shots...

well it's worthwhile seeing the car when you're talking about it.. nice pix.. p.s. your number plate fell off on that last lap

kind of shits me when they fly past at 3am in the morning full pelt.. in a 60km/hr zone. don't get woken by the cars doing that crap..

er.. sounds like ratted seals.. probably not a good idea driving it, as the turbo will just be pumping loads of oil through the engine.. in fact, no drive.. replace turbo. or at least remove and plug lines.. Pull off your intake pipe and see if that is filled with thick oil deposits.. If you can see it all over the throttle butterfly as well, you know where it's all been going...

Stock fuelpump.. $20 or so to make it worth my time. working. crossover and stock BOV: $40 stock RB20 intercooler: $40 that is all.. thanx

well I can see myself owning skylines for the next 10 years, so it's ok rodney In the last 6 years I've never owned anything but a skyline - in fact that thought is scary in itself. I guess one day I'll own some other car.. but there'll always be room for a skyline somewhere in the garage. damn my old man and his "who cares if it's fancy, as long as it's running" attitude!! think it wore off on me.

you say some funny stuff.. I know!! He's buying an M1 Abrams Battle Tank!!! congrats mate.. I know you will cut quite a scene driving it around - but it's your decision.. you know, in these uncertain times you want something with security and aggressive safety features.

prank got pranked.. lol

no... not another! traded - scary thought..

lol - obviously you don't own a ruler..

RaserR - you'd probably need it checked out properly by a suspension place.. But a new rack is around the $200-$400 mark from what I've seen. A good place to source them cheaply is from somebody that has a half-cut ... and just wanting the engine or whatever. Its a bit of a job to replace them as you have to remove a lot of the steering components to get to it so a few hours labour ontop of the rack. My brakes creak a bit too.. but they still seem to work pretty nicely so I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Things have changed though as of the start of 2005 with goods from the US.. can somebody please clarify them..

no.. as it has a battery backup.. neither will your powerfc.. this should be in the FAQ

Your answers are as useful as a priest in a brothel guys.. You'll have to remove the rear seat first, this will allow you to remove the side plastics. To remove the seat just pull up on the base and it should pop out.. And then remove the two screws on either side of the backing piece. Then you will need to push on that with your shoulders, whilst pushing up - as it is hooked in. The side panels should then be able to be popped out, but you may have to use some force if they haven't been removed before. You are best to work along the edges, pulling each stud out in turn.

They don't sell the whole arm though.. just the end piece in rice. You can get a good job, but I've found that for some reason the paint doesn't come very smooth on the wipers (no matter how much you sand). They're always a tiny bit "grainy". I've done it on both my current cars, done it on my last car, and still got a few to go on the front too.. sick of the ****ing things!! :ghost:

the police fairy I'd say would be a pretty good guess.. I'd like to come but unfortunately I have to spend the money on petrol for the track day next week. I know - hard decision ...

think she's done a runner.. don't you hate threads like this?

Are you just getting the 600x300x76 coolers.. or are you getting a couple of the 400x300x76 units as well like last time? I am thinking of getting the slightly smaller cooler, as the 600 could be a bit of a **** around to get on the R32 correctly. The shorter one would be so much easier to get behind the stock R32 bar..

I got an R33 one sitting here, which is same as R32 i think.. but you have to come to the goldcoast to test it..

I'd like to check out the sydney tracks when I have some more money to drive down there for a weekend, or during the week..

Gimme $50 and i'll go take mine out there and see how slow mine can run .. it's auto which would make it even better. oh but its got a K&N filter so i guess it's too highly modified

errr. roy: if it's to fit a GTS-T, it's not a genuine GTR front bar.. Nissan never made a GTR front bar for GTS-T