predator

the 10-15% dyno variation can explain anything.. no dynos are the same, come on.. it's been explained time and time again..

lol.. in that case just get a shitter beemer 5 years old and worth stuff all.. but the chicks will "think" you're rich only the intelligent ones will know better.. but you won't want those

go to one of the antivirus manufacturer sites, access their virus database, and see if there are any custom removal instructions for that particular virus.

I didn't notice the heat b4 tightening the handbrake.. but unfortunately I didn't check eitehr. It's possible it was deliberate loosened to prevent the probelm. The wumping and strangely from that wheel was still the same though.

yeah.. 2.4 is something different.. why stay with the pack. If I blow the Passage motor I might do something like that. Personally I wouldn't dick too much with putting a different head on there - too much dicking around. The stock head should see you towards 300rwkw with maybe some porting, and cams. You might want to speak to col-gtsx josh.. he had a Tomei 2.2L kit in his old GTS-X .. i think he said it had up around 300rwkw.

i'm not going no car yet registered.. i am hoping by next week finally (only after hmm.. 3 months) the R32 will on the road (er, legally)

haha..it's bad for your health ! serves you right.. took the r32 for a spin.. it's great.. but slowlllllllllll .. and auto in a turbz blows goats. I think it's slipping (either that or they are just shit) .. time to blow up an auto box!! woo!!

restrictor is needed in some states.. rather than just a sticker. Trust me, I tried. Like guys you can go on and on about "how everybody is getting ripped off" but some requirements are MANDATORY that are not in some states.. and of course how thorough your engineer in accepting things is another matter. but there are different requirements for different states which require different costs (but no not $200 for mirrors). JAS .. seat belts are very expensive yup for what they are. If you are lucky you can get some of a wrecked R32. I got mine for $100

The r33 is electronic.. probably the sender is stuffed, or possibly the wire is frayed or getting a bad connection. But yeah, it sits inside the tank, next to the fuel filter.

would you separate any of the hoses?

what car is it dude.. rofl..

I'm going to have to dismantle the whole hub aren't I ... :-s me thinks this is a job for "later"

hey awesome.. thats almost exactly my recent upgrade too Flogged off the cheapass aussie R31 and now i'm driving a Passage GT for $1500 more! Such a difference. Mine needs a few things done though But it goes pretty hard once it gets going. Silvertop and everything as well.. Hey... if you haven't already chuck the light stick on 'auto' and take it for a spin around a corner at night It's so cool

still available.. it definitely has the front steel wheel, and rear is ceramic.. I don't know what the go is with s2, as everybody says they should be nylon front.. but this one isn't ..

have fun mate.. I'm sure it'll be a great rewarding experience. hope to see you back in QLD someday with some other crazy car :wavey:

I'm not sure whether it's the actual handbrake cable, because before I tightened it up, it was nearly completely slack. Just before the Y.. Or do you mean actually where it goes into the hub. This can become stuck?

The other day i had to drive a Barina (don't ask), and the stupid thing had it so you had to pull up on the friggin gear boot to put in reverse! Now there was no pattern for *that* on the gearknob! Took me friggin ages to work it out.. stupid as.. damn girl cars are crap..

I have a spare set of rear s13's now for the Passage. I can compare them side by side soonish. I'm pretty sure they look similar.

I have one.. What series? Mine is off a series3 motor, but you can fit it to earlier s1/2 motors by splicing the wires. Its in good condition, and was all working fine when head was pulled off the motor. $20, and i can pay post?

Thanks for the suggestions.. Today I crawled under there to take a look. Everything appers to be in order, and checked the tension of a few bolts, the rear swaybar, bushes, etc. I think I even worked out out the HICAS on that thing works (two pistons - weird setup). Took off the suspected wheel, removed the caliper, and took off the hub. Again nothing too obvious there, so put all back together. Just before I took it for a spin, and the problem was still there. When I stopped though, I felt that wheel, and noticed it was very very hot even after just a quick drive. I think what could be happening is that the handbrake appears to be getting "stuck" on for that wheel The car has an older setup with the drum type arrangement for the handbrake sitting inside the hub. I did spray a whole heap of lubricant in there, and over the tension springs, etc but that didn't seem to make any difference. I don't really have too much of an idea how that handbrake setup works with the drum (usually its just a spring to the caliper) - would should I look at? What usually do you replace in there? What type of problems can develop?

the cast pistons are that good? are the rings replaced?

yeah, nice 4 door You look a bit cramped up there though buddy in the drivers seat. You always feel squished in the R32 - but it's a cool feeling.

jason: bored? want to come for a drive in the Passage? Not doing much today.. if somebody could take a look would be great, as it's very hard to tell. Even if I could sit outside the car I might be able to see what is happening. Driving obviously its hard to tell.

lol - I think I downloaded about 2 gig just last night.. hehe

The rear has been replaced with standard munroe shocks.. fronts are shagged, but it's rear end prob.. I do have a set of S13 king springs and shocks to try in the rear.. Sounds more major than just suspension itself, but I might fit them just in case.