predator

I'm after a set.. add me in.

Yeah.. n14 or n15.. with turbo conversion to make it interesting if you like. Toyota Starlet GT maybe..

Well I made the deposit a month or two back I think so make sure you haven't spent it on beer and skittles.. I'm in for the track version

I bought a new set in January for the 32gtst and no problems such as these... guess you get some bad batches along the way.

Could be fuel pump also, I had this problem on my gtst a few years ago.. Quite random dropouts. Could be driving along, and then just dead as a nail. Took me a couple of $$ tows and much swearing, but finally sorted it. Check voltages at the pump I guess..

Grey Golf GTI .. mt nebo.. 455 LKI I think it was.

Sure you are setting the boost and not the gain?

That's the Throttle Position sensor (TPS). If you have a CONSULT cable or an aftermarket ECU you should be able to check if the voltage is in range.

ur old man is a slacker!! I'm away tomorrow.. so if you want your sideskirts you'll have to wait a week or so now..

mine is white.. bloke above me seems to have white, I'm sure they're not that uncommon. I thought white was popular in Japan as it used to be their racing colour.. Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White && http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_inter...o_racing_colors - White was originally the national auto racing color of Japan until international racing colors were abandoned due to sponsorship.

Castor bushes I think are around $220.. They seem to be quoting about 2.5hrs labour, which is maybe a bit much, but if they're thorough it's probably reasonable. No doubt they'll pick up on other things as they see them.. to be honest all bushes may need attending to if they haven't already. That's going to be kind of expensive though. Front end you could consider upper arm bushes, lower arm bushes, steering rack bushes, swaybar d-bushes, and link bushes. Maybe tie-rod ends as well if they're flogged out, they're not too expensive.

Thanks guys, will try 355 front and see how it feels. If i still don't think its much chop, will start considering shock/spring changes. Ronin: haha.. you see I got abducted by these aliens from the planet "work", they subjected me to strange and evil things for many months but I am back now.. Was even considering not owning a skyline at all, but thankfully I came to my senses

I'd just take it to battery world.. they have a fitting chart.. Even repco should have something similar. Here you go, five seconds on the Internet: http://www.batteryworld.com.au/asp/index.a...&year=14949 A number of different ones will work, it's just a matter of how much you want to spend, and whether you want a sealed unit or not..

I should be in.. deposit will be paid over the weekend. What is the max camber you can run with these puppies ?

1) can't help you there.. but anybody who has an rb25 can tell you the pins from their CAS plug 2) 2nd photo.. far right, boost control solenoid (not needed unless u want to go use the stock rb25 solenoid).. brown box - wiper control square box - pins should be in my guide in the tutorials section.. far left, can't remember, hard to see properly

Just starting on the long path of modifying my R32 GTR to improve the handling.. At the moment, have measured the wheel to guard and I seem to have 335mm on the front, and 345mm on the rear.. From reading of previous threads it appears as if 345mm is fairly recommended for the rear, but my front is probably too low. I know SK used to recommend around 355mm at the front, but that seems a little high front/rear to me? I used to run 350mm front and rear on my gts-t and that was a very nice I found, but realise the GTR weighs a fair bit more on the front end. My main complaint at the moment is that it is a little bouncy.. not completely stuffed bouncy (AFIAK), but seems the fronts especially seem a little soft. I'm pretty used to harsh spring rates which I didn't mind actually on the street. Suspension are TEIN, although pretty old.. has height adjust but doesn't seem to have any damper adjust - anybody know what model these may be? Stickers are worn off. When I jack the car up, from the photo below, you can see the spring is non-captive by about 5mm. I am thinking that because the fronts have possibly been lowered excessively, this is not compressing the springs to their optimal rate, hence giving the floaty sensation through the front? The springs are fairly captive on the ground, but I've never had springs non-captive like that when jacked up, so I'm thinking may be time to get the old c-spanners out. Any recommendations would be great.

Yup, still have reo. Definitely prefer pickup for that.. it would be quite expensive to send interstate, and probably not worth your while. Is required if you don't want to hack your stock reo to pieces (which may not be legal) to fit a proper GTR bar. Pods sold, radiator sold. Here are the pics.

I voted labor.. suck shit

Why not just get them sent from Interstate? BrakeWest sell ADR approved versions.. One of the distributors sell the QFM pads on here.

Tighten the hose clamps down there, then clean it up.. then have a look in a few days and see where it's weeping from.

I got the reo .. on the goldcoast... $200

no.. if you look at them both you will see they are both quite different, even though they are both "rack ends".

Thanks Ash.. Yeah, will start checking for boost leaks.

I've only had my GTR for a couple of weeks.. I thought initially it may have an aftermarket BOV, because of the amount of noise they were making, but stuck my head under there yesterday, and they appear to be standard. The sound they make sounds like a bit of a sick pidgeon or similar, definitely audible inside the car. Boost seems to be falling off a bit as well, especially if I accelerate it quickly, so thinking they may be borked. Do they usually make a bit of a racket when they're old and worn out? I have an Apexi pod kit as well..

Doesn't sound too good.. pull the cover off the front of the cams, and see if the belt is still sitting properly on the camgears.