predator

cya!! internet sux anyhow but you *could* get a $30 modem and $10 a month internet account you know What job are you moving into ??

now this is a silly question... IN to the value of $150 for me..

35,000 is b.s. MOTEC.. well somebody paid a lot of money..

I think you have to play with the overboost settings on there. There is one that smooths out any creep and its important to get that right. If set correctly it shouldn't have any problems. With the spec I just had to twiddle the "sharpness" knob until it behaved and held... as revs rose or fell. Spec II has a ricey display and has a different method of setting - anyhow, refer to the manual

Either way unless you are very careful you may get taken for a ride.. To be honest trying to tackle it yourself is an option compared to some stories and prices I have seen from workshops.. You can fug up a hell of a lot of things, but at least its in your own time and not your money. Many times a workshop will make much the same mistakes as you might, but they'd be charging you for *their* mistakes and research time. Some places would charge you $10,000 for that sort of conversion. Unless the workshop has definitely done a couple of the exact conversions, can quote you a fairly firm price (based on the other conversions) and you can see the results for yourself.. I'd be just doing it yourself. As you can tell I don't have much faith in mechanics these days

Whats the overall verdict on the Walbros? Are they cheap pieces of crap, or ok for reasonable setups as long as you take into account the flow being rated at non-boost pressure ? Who is actually using them for good effect? Curious to know.

I wouldn't worry about it to be honest right now.. if you're going to live there for a couple of years, the rules would have changed so much by the time you come back, its little irrelevent asking now isn't it? Might not even be able to do it in 2 years who knows...

hey mate GT28 is seems to be mainly targetted towards the SR20's ..especially seeing as its got a T25 flange.. but seeing as the RB20DET is 2L might suit fairly well and would be responsive. But I think the power rating is low 200's. If you want another 90rwkw you'd probably want something a bit larger

click click...server busy... click click ...server busy ... click click....server busy meh.. gay server.. and you're making love to it too josh..figures actually..

oh my god PEOPLE what are PEOPLE doing in here?!! :shock:

:ghost:

its all personal taste.. it varies.. to me the Supra doesn't look like anything hot either with its oversized plastic bug lights so nur the concepts of the "next supra" looked quite good though from what I saw somewhere.

even if they were "150,000km" they could have really done 250,000.. so you can't really tell off the listed km. Again, maybe its regularly serviced - but by who and using what quality items, and how well has it been tuned? And maybe now they are "mildly modified" but in Japan they could have had a T67 strapped to its side for 10 years of its life and how would you know? And how do you have absolutely any firm idea of how they've been serviced in Japan before arriving in Australia or how it was treated?? So I still call :bs!: on your ass.. But sure, more forces, blah, blah on a turbo engine but don't forget they are tested WITH a turbo for long-life and built with similarly stronger internal components. Its like saying an 8 cylinder car with 200kw will last less than a 4cylinder car with 80kw.. its simply not true.

United States?

haha yeah.same.. last 2 months: $2500 :oops: Its kind of taking up a lot of space too.. hehe I think i have almost what i need.. but you never know..

yeah.. probably $800 to a GTR or GTS-T owner who's car is that colour.. probably less to somebody who's car isn't.. Depends on the condition and style of it really in the end as to how much. People will try and stooge you saying "I can get it for $xxx brand new, I'll only give you $500" but usually they're full of crap and just doing it to annoy you, or the off chance that you were so desperate you'd take the offer. They'll never buy it anyhow.

yes and no.. if you're working fulltime it can be a royal #@$% to run around town and do this and that just for a buyer. When later on they might just pull out and then what do you have - nada. But I guess you do all you can do reasonably to help the sale. In reality, if I had a buyer come back with "there is a slight misting in an indicator" or "there is a scratch in the tint" I would like $2000 off the price, I'd laugh at them and tell them to go buy a new car if they were that fussy. Maybe that means I wouldn't sell it, but meh - thats not the right buyer for the car. Usually you set a price, knowing full-well the small problems that might exist (if you even know the slightest thing about your own car). Thats why this car is $15k and not $17k, because of small little problems and probably the major 100,000km service is just around the corner. Sounds like the timing belt is loose or some like that. Be careful. Seeing as its your first car and you probably don't know where to go, first place you will take it to will charge you $1000 to change it over. If you leave it because you can't afford it the engine could go chink.... So either budget $2k to fix the problems, or don't get it at all. All the other problems look very minor though (power steering pump leak is common on all skylines)

This was me and is *confirmed* I tried to fit my spare r33 seats into my aussie R31.. don't fit and I tried lots of things.. different completely. Import (HR31) is different... so if they say R31 they will be for import R31.. NOT local as above.

there goes that theory maybe its dumber then.. lol edit: Which PFC are you running? the AP Engineering one for RB20DET ? Which is AFIAK just the r33 reprogrammed slightly for rb20det. Wonder how much work they put into the different HICAS ? how have you disabled the HICAS? Just disconnected the plugs? R32 HICAS is hyraulic, R33 is electronic.. could have something to do with it??

Can you increase the res of that pic or link to it somewhere? Bit hard to see inside the cabin, etc. It'll be in the Japanese writing there to the side I'd say. Its a weird one, because a) 99% of skylines I have seen have the rear spoiler or its been purposely removed B) those rims I've never really seen on an R32, either over in japan or elsewhere??? most have the usual 5 spoke jobbies.. Those rims almost look like the HR31 rims that I had for a bit.

Angry: FYI: here is one I had in my "files".. one (not sure of type) fitted to a GTR.. Basically instead of the toe-in/out being controlled by a little motor, the arms are locked into place. A few things are speed sensitive on the skylines.. I assume all the Tomei kit does is use some simple electronics to feed the correct speed signal back to the computer so things work a bit more nicely. There are a few functions that are speed sensitive on the skylines, so disconnecting the HICAS (which hooks into that) I'd say mucks with the whole speed loop of the ECU. bl4ck32: at a guess, what you are seeing as the speed sensitive steering I think being confused and going into the firmest setting. At a guess, probably "open circuit" means like 1billion km/hr or something so kicks into the maximum power steering firmness. Thats not actually HICAS. I'd be interested to see what effect something like a PowerFC would have on things. So its possible that those with aftermarket management would not experience some of these problems??? Wouldn't surprise me if the PFC is a little more intelligent (knowing many would disable the HICAS for track, etc work) and doesn't care too much about HICAS connected or not??

heard similar.. i heard they were very good.. but like many places they've let the standard slip.

ahhh.. yeah, i think you are right. I was referring more to the exhaust gears.. inlet gear will fit I am pretty sure but you'll lose VVT. If its for an RB20DET it doesn't matter (no VVT anyhow) dezert: yes, rb25 has a basic form of VVT yer..

Yeah definitely joel.. at the moment I am still driving my R31 around till my r32 gets here.. and even though its only got the SOHC version of the RB30 of course, its a great engine that revs very freely and never is really struggling for power, even in auto form. I love thrashing that thing around the streets For a 1300kg, 6cylinder car its got some good acceleration going for itself. So everytime i drive that I try to picture my old RB25DET combined with some of the better bits of the RB30E and a smile comes to my face.. So what stage is yours at the moment? So you have it running just in n/a form at the moment?

oh.. ok.. be careful of getting too keen on anything seen on carsales - there are people like me who sold their cars 2 months ago and still haven't removed their ad.. :Oops: