predator

People are often calm and non-confrontational at the time, but may well change their mind later on. Often in this situation, person thinks it's only 'a small scratch', goes to your usual inflated crash repairer for a quick quote, they say 'nah, not easy at all we gotta do this and that and that ... $2k' (but they know they'll get the work at that price as it's an insurance job (double the price)) then said person goes 'shit, this stuff is expensive, maybe i had better do this through insurance', and then there you are.. By attempting to offer cash, how do you really know at the time 500-600 is going to cover your average panel shop repair cost? If I at the time looked at some damage to my car, and tried to work out on the spot whether that would cover it I'd have no idea as I'm not a smash repairer. Anyhow, doubt you have much choice but to pay. If you had a lot of money, you'd hire a lawyer, demand that they got three written independent quotes, and you pay cash for the middle of these quotes. But that would cost you more than it's worth. The joys of being rich.. As somebody suggested, ring AAMI and demand a copy of the quotes used to assess the damage. If they've only got one, or it seems suspected, kick up a stink.

oh dear..

yes, they're invisible pictures - look veeery closely

speed often isn't the problem up here.. it's just that people just are too moronic to keep a 2 second gap.. or further when it rains. should be public education campaigns about it, it's so chronic, but nope, that costs money... never mind the chaos whenever one car has an accident, the other runs straight up the back with that 0.2 second gap, and the highways are thrown into chaos for the next hour.

supercheap and repco usually have those sorts of plastic fasteners for door trims, front bars, boot linings, in the rack that has their Champion bolts, washers, nuts, etc. As long as the clips are not Nissan specific, you should find what you need.

yeah - rb20 definitely needs lowdown revs.. especially in an auto, you're waiting forever. That's why they put the 4.3 diff in it speaking from experience with my current setup, rb25, with an rb20 box that has (I am pretty sure) shorter gearing than a standard rb25 box, short diff (4.3 - auto one), air con belt disconnected, and lightened flywheel make a fair difference. Mine revs like tits on a bull at the moment, and i haven't really done too much to it, it just happened that way - but there is the down sides as people have covered... * it sits on 3000rpm at 110km/hr, allowing possibly a max speed of only 200km/hr. This is great for drag strip.. but not good for where you may need to have more than this speed (some race tracks) * you get the 'rex buzz box' feel, where you're always changing gears and it's noisey as a mofo. It's fun in traffic, and makes the car feel faster than it is... but ultimately probably robbing usable power. * the car can squirm like a bitch from 0-100.. even on near stock power levels like mine. You'll need good tyres and get the power to the ground. I know if I increase the power to the wheels too much, I'm going to have to go back to a more normal ratio. Diff ratio change is probably the easiest one thing to give you what you want, and that is acceleration maybe than revs(?).. hell throw in an rb20 box and give me your rb25 one but be warned.

Problem is a good road tyre still is no good for the track, and then you have to lash out the cost for the RE55's or the like, good spare set of rims, swapping them each outing, etc. So it's either cheap-ass road tyres (which can be dangerous), although are probably driven on 98% of the time, or spend good money on both... which is getting close to $1800 just for 2 pairs. A compromise tyre would be great, but of course the characteristics of one make it unsuitable for the other.

hmm.. my bet is about 3 hours work for them to remove and refit the plenum.. its a bitch to do .. but those hoses always go on rb20's.. good old rb25, so much more room under that side

rarespares or something may well be able to make them.. they are well known for making seals for 'classic' old cars. If they thought the demand was there, they may well do. But it depends on the numbers. Lets face it, probably 2/3 of R32 have the stuffed rear window seal by now, and the door ones stuffed or nearly there. There'd be a heap of buyers if the price wasn't stratospheric.

rt215 was perfectly safe in the wet (if you always remember you are in a turbo car) so assume the RT615's are similar. I got about 12,000km out of my rt215's with still a few more km in them. That's not quite up there with your 20-30,000km of your average tyre, but if you don't do a heap of km each year, fair enough.

Maybe have to take the dump off to get enough leverage? that's what I had to do with my original dump pipe to get it off as a last resort. Try Revolution racegear, there is one in moorooka in bris.. http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/?fa=R...6332E944FB94049 Either that or a specialist hose shop may have it to insulate fuel lines, etc.

Unfortunately, you probably won't find cheaper, as justcars is probably the only one that would insure you.

it's not easy getting off.. you can run the car without the o2 sensor for a while if you need to. Maybe try undoing it when the dump is warm. Obviously not fuse-the-fingers hot, but once it's started to cool down to touchable levels. just zip-tie the o2 plug to the firewall, will stop it flopping down and melting in the future. That seems to have worked for me. If you want to insulate it (say if you run at regular full boost levels), I'd use some of the stuff you use to insulate turbo lines.

Some of the more general insurers maybe won't, be an insurance broker will insure anything for any price.. just like sports stars insuring their fingers for injury, or singers insuring their voices. All silly things, but you can insure anything if they agree on a premium for what they think will make them a profit vs risk.

hey maybe they did..

they haven't fixed the alt-s bug all these years on?

josh.. don't be gay.. you know how cool it would be to race with the waterfront scenery all around you.

chris rogers @ audioexpress .. http://www.audioexpress.com.au/ A sponsor of the club, and more than capable of doing the job. He's in Brisbane too..

what the hell are you guys talking about?? AGREED VALUE is what you and the insurance company have agreed the price to be, now most commonly this is what you have decided, and they adjust their premiums accordingly MARKET VALUE is the current market value for that particular vehicle, compared to any other similar vehicle of the same age and similar average condition. That is determined pretty much on their own determination, or standard rules and tables for that make and model. purchase price has nothing to do with it! they may ask, just to see that what you paid for the car may not have suspicious undertones, and probably in the end to determine the "average" market value for the next skyline they insure over time (along with the other variables in their complex calculations)

close all doors, and watch your eyes, that thing can fly..

ouch! looks like even the same type of rim as that yellow r33 ? buying from ebay is especially dodgy, as there is no, or next to no warranty, and often the wheels don't even get the proper checks that a major wheel retailer would do (you'd hope).. I can bet your bottom dollar, if a rim separated like that, is the retailer going to give a shit? god yes.. and you would have good grounds to sue their pants off for selling something obviously dangerous - even if your insurance didn't come through. Is an ebay seller? probably won't be there next week. Your insurance will probably say "structural problem" and refuse to cover you, and there would be no recourse against the manufacturer.. so where does that leave you? bent over severely..

There is no god!

~$1300 could get you a brand new kaaz, cusco, nismo, etc.. so you'd want it to be in very good condition.

The denso price on his website is listed at $365.. lol. Somebody has got something mixed up..

Fair way from anywhere.. Would not be classified as 'central' to the goldcoast at least.