predator

It's not the whole front bar, it is the metal support behind the bar, which is needed to hold the bar up. It is needed to fit a GTR bar without cutting your existing reo. Pods sold Radiator tentatively sold to ellie

I had the HKB boss on my old GTS-T - yes that is the HICAS version, which worked okay with my HICAS (before I removed it all)

Just sold my GTS-T so no longer have need for these parts These items are pickup only: R32 GTS-T aluminium radiator. From Justjap (can include receipt). Brand new, only unwrapped a month ago. Save on the $330 price, before shipping - $270 R32 GTR genuine reo bar - quite hard to get hold of. Needed for a proper GTR front conversion: $200 - photos later, but in good condition R33/R32 stock turbo heat shield - $20 These are pickup or post: R32 GTR genuine support bracket - required for GTR bonnet, as spaces the latch further back (sorry, no GTR latch available). Brand new - $70 R32 GTS-T bonnect latch and support - $30 R32 GTR genuine grille in good condition. Includes clips, fitted GTS-T fine - $120. New price Justjap is $270 R32 "Trust style" rear pods in fibreglass (unpainted) to suit GTS-T, from JSAI - $90 (new price is $165) As seen here on vehicle http://jsai.net.au/index.php?page=shop.pro...t&Itemid=29 The marks are sticky tape residue, can be removed with citris cleaner pretty easily R32 GTS-T standard JECS fuel pump.. Was working fine in car, but has been out of the car for a while so no guarantee. Includes filter and some wiring. $30

After a drivers side door speaker cover for R32 in good condition .. PM if you have one

Once the bushes are pressed in, it's not a hard job to put in the arms, no. It is a little fiddly pulling the steering knuckle back as you try and fit the bolt though. You could also consider fitting an aftermarket front sway bar while you have the car all jacked up and ready, as you've got to take the castor rods out to get to one of the bolts. The other thing is the fully adjustable ones you see around I don't believe are road legal, and many of them also won't last too long before the sphericals flog out.. Whereas is if you get the pressed in offset bushes they will give you less (increased) castor, but will be road legal and should last a bit longer. SPF1202AK is the one you want if you want the offset adjust (for R32 or R33) http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/

I actually like the R32 interior *because* it is older, gives its own late 80's, early 90's unique charm. It is retro, but I love it for that It also feels like you are wrapped in, and you can feel the exact dimensions of the car.. For instance you can reach an arm out and touch the other door, and you really know where the tail is. It really comes close to the feel of a small hatchback. The R33 GTR interior is probably a more comfortable place to be for long trips as it is more open. It's interior is also more the modern design with the wider open dash, and where the instruments are wrapped as one piece into the dash. While it is more modern, that also makes it fairly similar to the interior of a few other cars of the 90's, and even cars of today, and somewhat less unique.

Don't worry.. it will probably cause me years of grief, and end up selling it for half what I paid for it.. although that is all part of the fun

Not bad... although I like to keep my biking pedal powered! Having a job is always a plus..I am ok at the moment, although they sacked a few people a few weeks back. Just bought a 32 GTR.. should be picking it up tomorrow.. Will continue my 12 year run of continuous Skyline ownership

how is life anyhow? You still live up near Rocky?

is that the best u've got? gee, your l33t skills have faded old man..

me registered > than you = you n00b

90% sure it's a bit of a junction/control box for wipers

Well lucky I went the Toyo's then Must have been 205's in the Federals ? Little hard to tell, as seller is fitting new ones for roadworthy so is relayed info.

Got a choice between Federal 595SS or Toyo T1R in 225/50R16's for my new GTR.. Mainly for daily driven road use for now.. May see a track day later on if I haven't gone for larger rims by then. Which one should I go for? Or much of a muchness. Price difference isn't too much between them. Both seem to be fairly favoured on here.

The ECU doesn't give power to anything.. it receives power and switches some things to ground to start other things. That should be fairly obvious. The ECCS and IGN relays each have 2 pins power, the other 2 go back to the ECU. Here is your basic diagram for the power: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#56 As stated, down near the ECU, all it needs is to power the coils when the ECU grounds pin 16 (through coil relay - IGN printed on it), 12v to ECCS (which gives power to the ECU), 12v power to injectors, and the start wire (key switches pin 43 on the ECU) and the engine will start up. All the gauges, extra sensor inputs, etc are a little optional to start with, and can be sorted at least once you have the engine started. I hope you have a multimeter to check each point is receiving 12v when it should. Also it can be usedd to check continuinty from point to point (buzzes if connection from one point to another) Yes, IGN is not necessarily full key, but second last key position (all accessories on). When you turn the key to the start position pin 43 receives 12v and the whole shebang starts. To be honest, if these things are a little confusing, i think it may be time to pay an auto-electrician to get it all at least starting. You've been at it for months now I am sure there must be some smart ones in the Netherlands out there - the RB25det wiring is not super complicated compared to modern cars and similar to the concept in other cars of the 1990's.

Not sure that I have seen this posted much.. This is quite useful if you have a car imported under the RAWS workshop SEVS scheme, you can do a VIN number search and it will tell you who complianced it, and when it was done. All online.. http://raws.infrastructure.gov.au/rawswebp...ubVehSearch.asp Good to check any potential dodginess if you are purchasing an import already on the road.

Sure it is.. but you have to know that on a high power car, with 20 years or so on the clock, things are starting to wear out. The odds are pretty high unless things have already been attended to. They can be great cars, but you need a fairly heavy buffer in reserve for major problems.. And by that I mean about $10k, which may cover an engine rebuild. If that seems like a scary proposition, then maybe it's not the sort of car for you.

On r32 for speed sentivity - valve .. controlled by ECU, based on speedo. Disconnecting the plug is not going to do much, other than let the toe in of the rear wheels vibrate around which will not give you any benefit. To do it properly you need to lock the rack. Rear swaybar and locked rack makes a good difference - very predictable.

I chopped them half-way across the firewall.. bought hose step downs, and bought straight length heater hoses from a hose place. The hose I bought was pretty thick so was enough room to curve them without kinking them. Has been fine for 2-3 years. Something like this anyhow.. engine-> ===||----- -> dash side

It is about $40-50 from memory You are best off catching the bus. Pretty quick from the airport. $15 from memory. Or if you don't mind walking 10 mins, cross the main road, and catch the local bus and it's about $4

Here is my wiring - I think there are some errors, but it should help. I will revise if there are any errors. r32_rb25_wiring01.doc This is for series1 rb25 engine, don't know anything about series2. Please don't ask me mountains of questions, I probably don't know, it's been years and years since the conversion. Diagram 1 shows the location near the airbox side. The 2nd plug near there I think can be left spare. Diagram 3. Up near the wiper area there is another plug which is pretty much spare. Run another wire from the orange to the footwell area. Diagram 3b is where to run this extra wiring to the footwell plug. Off this run the thick black and the thick white to the fuel pump resistor Diagram 4 shows near the passenger footwell on the r32 body loom, which is the fattest plug. As far as I remember this is "spare". Diagram 5 is the main two plugs which need most of the wiring from the old rb25 body loom plug cut and wired to these.

Often the plastic bit splits down the base. Should be able to wrap the end in plastic tape, and/or glue it back onto the end of the cable. I fixed mine and it was fine for a couple of years, then the key down the box broke.. then I bought a new cable

You will need to speak to an engineer.. the one who will be signing off on the rollcage you choose, making it road legal for QT. QT may give you the specs, but they won't be the ones signing off on it.

No.. not if existing bushes are fine. The link kit helps keeps your swaybar steady, and better able to transfer weight from one side of the car to the other during cornering, which is it's function. If bushes are old or worn, or the links bent, the swaybar won't operate as effectively at doing this.

Rip that stupid thing out.. it just gets in the way of things, and weighs a bit too. There are diagrams on the removing hicas thread (search, it's probably in tutorials).. you basically have to run a new hose from the front pipes/cooler, down to where it dips below to the steering rack. So it basically just retains the factory flow direction without the hicas. No need to change pumps. I did mine about 2 years ago once I locked out mine, been fine.