predator

stock or aftermarket?

There is vague whispers of a track day with nsw members coming up for a QR day.. That would be a great event... or maybe they're a little ...soft?

Some of the best times I've had in my car is with somebody else driving it, as I know they'll be losing their license and not me ... therefore, "go for it, just don't kill me". Obviously though I'd rather be in the passenger seat when it's happening, so I know what *is* happening.

it's attrocious if a workshop doesn't know what one is and why it's needed! The spigot bush basically holds the gearbox shaft in there snuggly and makes sure the input shaft rotates smoothly around its axis. From my understanding it stops an offcenter wobble or vibration as the input shaft spins. A box may still whine with the spigot bush installed correct in there, as the input shaft bearing (inside the box) can still be stuffed in the box itself.

yeah.. trying to work out the exact problem now.. its either the starter or the plug around the starter is dodgy. I'm going to try and get a set of slicks for next day too before wasting too much on extra power.. f**k those nankangs.. haha

hmm.. I've remembered I already had that.. Here you go. You love me more now. The FPCM (which appears like its not on rb20de) drops the voltage on the fuel pump at idle, but probably isn't mandatory. Thats rigged up near the boot anyhow. Just rig up the knock sensors - that's pretty much two wires direct to the sensors and a ground off each. I can't see why the rb20de would have them, but in the diagram it doesn't say that they are specific to rb20det. Everything else looks identical so away you go.

joshwa.. do you have a diagram of the rb20e wiring, or at least ecu pinout ? if so I can tell you what the differences are. To be honest I can't think of too much that would be different.. its not like the turbo has any wiring coming off it. I have the complete RB20det wiring diagrams, so if you could get the rb20e stuff i can have a quick look and compare.

as above. the throwout bearing is big.. the spigot bush fits over your finger. But a few people get them mixed up. Unfortunately its one of those things that only really makes sense when you pull the car apart and see how it all fits together.

photos..

In good condition. Prefer QLD, but may be prepared to pay shipping. -gordon

was good to watch.. and get out there, if only for a few short laps. Finally found out my problem in the end - dead start motor! so got it push started at least, and got home, where it shall stay until I get a new one. damn, these things always happen when you need the car.

I sold my old r32 turbo for $150 in good condition.. so around $100-250 i guess. They're not too bad really.. and would be fine on a few other cars.

Need one complete. Would say GTR, GTS, and GTS-T are same.. End of mine snapped off

I emailed it to you mr baron.. but I've whacked it back on the site. Moved servers recently, must have missed that directory.

its the history eraser tube.. actually to me it just looks like the hose to your wiper jets. Do they work?

95% tread.. but they're nankangs.. got new rims, they came with dodgy tyres so stuck with them for a while till i get a full set of track rims and proper slicks.

crapper on the clutch.. doesn't sound good.. hey me too got shitty tyres at the moment, see whether I can get any grip down with them. That's my main concern.

really? I got $550 separated as parts for mine.. and about 10 enquiries wanting to buy it complete (i had to tell them I woudln't recommend it for a long lasting engine). Maybe people just don't know where to look.

$600 rb20's? hmm the 100k servicing needs to be done anyhow.. whether its an rb20, rb25, rb26. rb25 box, well can be left for a while with rb20 box (like mine) or buy another. An rb20 with similar power still requires an rb25 box at some point anyhow, with the tailshaft mods, etc. Wiring mods? quite easy.. if you have the full rb25 engine loom you can work it out, direct to rb25 ecu. I'm not an auto elec, nor a mechanic, nor ever rewired a conversion. Factory engine+ factory ecu = engineerable to get it plated. Plus you save $400 on the PFC as opposed to getting the AP version (that's near a full tune).. readily available, and under the $1k mark. Plugs right in. I've got the spreadsheet in front of me with the numbers, roy - it's not expensive. $2.5k for .. manual conversion + rb25 - sale of old rb20 parts. Just shop smart. My engine may not last forever, like any second hand engine, but there is always the option of an rb30det, or rebuilt rb25, or simply another rb25 to slot in. The framework is in place. But each to their own

hope things get better.. I am sure he'll come through, better, stronger, fitter for the experience.

get it engineered? shouldn't be a drama (depending on your state of course)

2 seconds on the forum would have told you any VL or R31 one will fit.. ring any wrecker that has these cars sitting in their lot and you should be able to find one. Can't be too difficult. I've got one actually that's been sitting around.. but you have to get me a replacement if you get it off me.

rb25 would only be an extra $1500 or so at the end of the day.. and the benefits are cheaper than putting the alternative cost into the rb20

buy a 2nd hand rb25 and transfer all the stuff across.. Just a guess, but the ecu was probably tuned agressively for japanese RON fuel, not the weaker the aussie stuff.

what dave said above.. r32 barely has r&r. It won't behave like that. There is some other problem that needs to be investigated