predator

You basically need an open stretch of road (er ok dyno) and a co-pilot. You basically want it to rise as quickly to the boost position without having any "flat" spot (like it goes up quickly, then the reach to full boost takes ages), and also where the boost doesn't drop off when your foot is flat to the floor during redline. I find about 1/4 of the way around works best for me. Played with it a lot, I think i've got in on the perfect position at the moment for my car. That'll only cause spiking boost anyhow, and it won't hold your desired boost either.

If any of you have missed it.. Not much of interest, but hey its about *legal* dragging for once http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2004/02/...6548224401.html

he's not responding to emails.. seems like he's wasting peoples time..

Yeah.. make sure you get the sensor type correct. I remember dicking around with that setting at one point. If its incorrect basically your engine check light will stay on and wont start. If you do a search on here you should be able to find out the base settings to at least be able to drive around until you get it dyno tuned. THR should visible on the screen (% to full floor accelerator). Even if its just in ACC mode (e.g. not running), you should be able to press your foot to the floor and see the % THR change. If its not changing then its possible your mechanic forgot to connect the correct line to the ECU. I've got an S-AFC I as well, so if you want the base settings and still having trouble PM me and I'll go turn my car on

Problem is quite a few people stick a bigger turbo and still only get high 12's. As they have neglected much of the handling and support issues like good tyres, handling items, etc because they're dont want to waste money on that.. but when you consider the total costs (AFM, ECU, turbo, fitting) there is not much way to get it all done for much change out of $5k. That buys a lot of other stuff. But yeah, big turbo gives the most instant hp no doubt about it.. but if its just "bang" spin, spin on the wheels.. stupid. Other option to the HKS 2530 which is looking nice is the Trust 517z (for around 230rwkw).. or 518z (for around 250rwkw).. Pretty much same torque curve, just the 517z drops off a little earlier. Depends whether you believe in trusting plain bearing vs ballbearing. Trust has been building plain bearing turbos for a long time, obviously they see no need to go for ballbearing. I've been looking a little, these turbos can be had for under $2500 shipped from japan new. Not too exxy. lol - you've got a silvia anyway! what u talking about.. different turbo combos you need for the silvia. Generally you can get away with smaller for same power as the rb.

yeah.. i might be interested in something a little thinner.. and like angled.. eg... / / Can you take custom designs from like illustrator and build them?

shoot the wife..keep the car..

Would even a basic restrictor such as this work? even out of just sheet metal. --- | o | --- You could just bolt in behind the cat, if it wasn't visible doubt they could tell, and it *should* quieten down the noise. Most silencers I have seen are little different that just reducing the diameter of the pipe.

You can also get the general concitinered stuff that will bend to any shape if you're really stuck. I've used that on a previous car when they haven't had the exact same one - works fine just maybe doesn't look as nice. Repco, etc will have it. But otherwise.. hmm, that Ford Courier stuff is looking like the go. It sounds like this is the top hose? What about bottom hose? Mine is getting a little soft and spongey.. could do with a replace.

i don't watch TV, simple i think spotting something actually interesting inbetween the reality shows is too difficult so I've given up. Well the ads are probably targetted towards you're average young v8 head who wants to rice up their car with some jap style products. Ironic isn't it

Get one of them CAI boxes from the group buy going on (look the goods), and if you get a pod whack it in. That would probably cost you $300 or so, and you get to keep the noise. otherwise just get a good panel filter... K&N, etc.

delete my posts and i'll whore more..

yes, i think its essential that threads such as this are shared with the rest of SAU: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=34078

sounds good.. they have some cheap guages.. after an oil temp guage. wonder if its up QLD ? /me off to autobahn tomorrow

... nah, don't worry it will go with all the cracks shes put in the front bar sounds if they don't fit don't bother, another defect waiting to happen. One day 50 defects later you'll learn its not worth it!

Somebody else I know was having trouble with their AVC-R. From this I found you can apparently ship them back to Apexi Japan and they can fix it. They'll charge you for the time/labour to get it fixed though.. could be a few hundred $ so I guess you just have to figure its worth it or not. An authorised Apexi dealer here could probably hook you up to send it off, etc.

Yup.. great night. Good to finally meet some QLD dudes - didn't get to find out who everybody was, but I'm sure over the next few events will get to know some people a bit more. Some hardcore mountain running which was good, and nobody came acroppa so even better Those from Brisbane should'a come down.. 30mins or so from Brisbane is hardly far, and its just off the M1 anywayz. Was easily worth the trip. Pity I forgot my digi camera at the last minute.. stupid me. GO TEAM //GC .. even though i don't live there! lol, although actually i am technically "north" of the goldcoast

lol..

Sorry: dumb question.. but with is the Q45 AFM ? Are you using this as a substitute for the Z32 AFM ? How much? I can do some rewiring if it comes to Z32 AFM time.. ~$300 for an AFM seems a little rich for a bit of plastic and a heat resistor..

Turbocharging a SZ is both a waste of money .. and won't give you the required results unless big bucks are spent. The TT engine is a monster internally, and quite different. You can pick up a TT Supra for under $30k these days, and the NA are often around $20k. To turbo the N/A will cost you probably more than $10k, and it won't be done that well. Its similar to turbocharging a GTS n/a skyline. Can be done, but do you want to bother? My friend investigated it (and to him money wasn't even really an option), ended up selling the SZ and buying a GTR Smart

Here are pics:

seeing as you're a fellow QLD'er send them to gcraick@gamebiz.com.au (no size limits on this one) and i'll host them for you.. this will solve many of your problems.. then you can have the photos direct in this thread.. you'll sell it in no time.. cya

err...does it still need the new head gasket?

change of plans.. i'm coming down to meet team //GC tonight.. see u guys there!

yup.. i wanna see your car vs his on the dyno should be an interesting contest.. but with his CR i have a feeling i know whos gonna be fried first