predator

haha. The old ninja & counsellers days! Who can ever forget the honorable member for Bangtown Nexus "Conseller Hottie"

yup.. I see cyrus' wagon in that block up there... or is that cyrus' head?

come on joshlovey.. we all know it's only you that are SAU's worst hoon.. VL's are cool. This thread is useless without a furry kitten..

I mean .. what the?!12112!

where the hell are the photos ladies?

no.. inlet plenum side is different between rb20 and rb25. exhaust manifold side is the same. That is the way it is.

sorry.. most parts are now sold.. including the block/head. Have updated what's sold up top.

Yeah, i've got a multi-meter.. I can check the resistance. I was thinking a relay could be used somehow. thanks for the tip terry.. investigating this tangent now ..

Isn't this your second car to get stolen? hmm, somebody has your number I have a feeling..

89 ftw.. read this roy: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=41327 get it engineered up here.. it has to pass a rwc, but well, it's QLD

What's with the caps themselves? There seems to be some sort of liquid in there (doesn't seem to be oil?) I removed a cam from my old rb20, and there seemed to be a liquid that bubbled out?

Er.. what brand? With the Nismo, undo two bolts, undo the hose.. fit the new one in it's place, tighten. Done! The base rate needs to be set however, and mine was 10psi off. I took it easy for a week though. I doubt the lines will burst if you up the fuel pressure, as long as they're not really really old.

There were only really 2 types of auto gearboxes behind the Nissan RB30's.. one from series 1 and 2 (up to 1988) and one from series 3 (89/1990 models). The later ones were more like the RB20/RB25 autos RE4R01, so would be electronic. The earlier ones *may* have what you are after, but they all run an auto ECU of their own still. The early ones are good to around 150rwkw or so reading from people.

I've finished up my car, and finished the manual conversion and it's all working pretty nicely. On the gearbox, there is a green w/ orange stripe and black wire at the back of the box (neutral switch?).. and at the front of the box is a green w/ white stripe and green wire. I've xtended these wires up to the fusebox area. The only thing is I'm having a lot of difficulty with the reverse switch! Yes I have read the manual conversion tutorial and all the associated threads on the wiring, but mine seems different for some strange reason? I have ran the loom from the gearbox up to near the fuse box... and I have found the reverse wires (red 12v) and green w/ stripe (reverse). Now if I connect these to the reverse switch, basically i get the exact opposite of what I should be getting! In reverse, reverse is "off" (i.e. no reverse lights), but in anything other than reverse it's "on". So basically from I can see reverse is "open circuit" and non-reverse is "closed circuit", when it needs to be changed to the opposite some how. Does anybody who is familiar with wiring know how I can change this behaviour to the opposite (diode or something?). My electronics theory is pretty basic, so I'm just unsure how I can do this. If I can, I think it all should work fine. There must be some simple way to fix it I am sure.

manual or girl shifter?

That's if the actual gears are heavier... Then you'd also have to work out any differences in design to work out differences in energy lost in the gearing action. Then you'd need to know how much extra was in the actual casing compared to the gears. Don't think it would be that simple.

sure.. I have 6 of them.. $20 each.. They were working on my old rb20

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hp?showforum=84

I would take the engine out.. take the head off, and send them to an expert to do the rest and/or purchase the components you need yourself (in consultation with the engine builder of course). All of this can be done in a weekend. When the engine is ready, spend the time dropping it back in yourself. Just the above will save you a few thousand most likely. Spend the savings on the fun bits.

..still 3 foot wide though? awaits a slap..

An airflow meter is not actually reading "air" either.. it's measuring the change in heat to the afm element cooled by the amount of "air" flowing through the "hotwire".. again, it pretty much uses calculations to work out the amount of air going in. They're too different methods to do essentially the same thing and each has pros and cons.

You're worried about $2k ? lol.. in the scheme of things in hardly matters.. Just be happy with it, as long as the car works all fine now and 12+ months into the future, you've done well.

I heard he is caught up making a modern art sculpture out of his broken gearboxes?

It's all in the Aussie R32 GTR service manual, which is around as a PDF.. The diagram includes both RB20DET and RB26DETT in the one diagram, as I guess the rest of the car is pretty similar in terms of wiring. I printed them off as about 5 A4 pages and with the magic of sticky tape, one big ass diagram.

ellie: keep the 32.. its an evil track weapon in disguise but its a long term process to get it to a balanced state of everything, like any car. I ran my stock as r32 as a underpowered auto, and it was still plenty of fun, and was only a couple of seconds off the R33 and some modified cars. That made me go "well that wasn't bad actually.. hmm, it's going to be great with some more power" You read a lot on here, and think the "must haves" are a lot and if you don't have them it's a waste of time.. but they're not. You can get out there with no fmic, no oil cooler, and nankangs and still do ok and have plenty of fun and not really risk the car. Just know your car, that's the main thing.