predator

Ferrari of whatever current model.. hmm.. maybe chaser jzx100 Then again, the 'practicality' of a 4 door is not much better than a coupe when it comes down to it (having owned a few)... You still don't have enough boot space for the big long or larger items. For that you need a hatch or a wagon. The only thing it's a bit more convenient for passengers, and well stuff them If "class" wasn't an issue, I'll just keep my R32.. for price, handling, performance (having turfed the rb20), knowledge of the car, power/weight, there isn't much better. It's a bit daggy on the inside these days, but then again what isn't unless you bend over on the price. And whatever else "new" will be ever-outdated in 3 years after that. Why keep playing the game until you die purchasing new cars every few years and blow it all over again? To me that's lame. During that time you could be travelling overseas, buying a business, going on exciting weekend adventures, furnish your house with the best furniture, etc, etc rather than spending maybe 40% of your weekly income maintaining some new car. I was thinking no matter what you're going to buy you're going to get shafted with the resale and that never makes you get richer faster, so why not just stick to whatever you've blown all the money on

I heard he was assassinated in a secret underground plot to take out the President?

I am pretty sure the cig lighter is 12v IGN .. splice off that.

Fun isn't it? Alrighty.. off the back of my conversion.. it's fairly fresh in my mind so here goes.. (Note I gained a lot off bh_slo32, and col-gtsx.. thanx for their help!) Now I pass it on.. Some of it is a bit general, others can probably be more specific, or point out any errors. That's your wiper amplifier. It may be required to get your wipers working, or at least change speeds? Probably not very important to start with, worry about that later. This sounds like the boost control solenoid... Again, probably not very important, unless you must maintain a factory setup in every way. Photos of this would help. Which side? left/right? Think I might know the one... If it's the one I'm thinking of it may be optional. Is it up close to where the loom enters the firewall? Photos of this would help. That's one of your main enginebay plugs. Light blue is engine check light (to dash).. Green/orange is one of the consult a signals (TX or RX) and i think green/red is like consult CHK. Blue/Red is IGN power to wipers. yellow is ? (i left mine empty). There should be a grey one here too? This is for 12v (I think its 12v IGN) injector voltage. It's important to have this hooked up or car won't start. I don't believe so, it should be 4 pins I think for the AFM.. Looks like the plug to the CAS to me.. That's your actual wiper plug.. plugs into the wiper motor Anyhow, hope this points you in some right directions.

I connected up my reverse sensor to the red and green w/stripe near the fusebox.. But it kind of works the opposite to what you'd expect.. In all other gears it beeps/reverse lights go on, but in reverse all goes off! If I bridge the red (12v) and green white/stripe on the fusebox end it goes into reverse mode properly though. Anybody help?

hmm.. well rust isn't really an issue for compliance if it has an import approval under the old 15 year rule. It just has to be roadworthy But in terms of the car itself, I'd be a bit worried. It looks mostly like surface oxidisation, which you get on any car in parts, but it seems to be over a heap of different stuff and in parts I'm sure its probably a lot deeper - they're the bits you have to watch for. And it's probably just going to get worse. Depends how much you're paying, but there are a heap of 89/90 models with no rust like that shown (mine for instance)

I don't see why we should be getting excited by American companies infesting our society. Especially junk food when kids are getting fatter and fatter. Worse of all is the viral branding from American culture in TV, movies, etc to promote these American brands. Without this nobody would have even heard of these companies. f**k off America!

they are series1 injectors.. but I don't believe there is any difference (other than age) daler.. to be honest probably not.. they are 270cc.. I am not sure what SR20 ones are, but I think they are at least 300cc+

It doesn't give the correct voltage readings the ECU requires to do its closed loop operation. Therefore it's not economical. But it's not like the car won't run.. you can unplug totally it and drive around - it just will suck a lot of juice. I tried one of these "EL - fits R33/R32" sensors into my old rb20det.. and plugged in the consult port and voltage was all over the shop. Since then a few are adament it's fine on an rb25.. but I haven't yet stuffed around checking how the ECU reads the voltage on the rb25 ecu yet.

flatmate says no.. sorry. .thought you meant rb20det in VL ..

you are correct

like dave is saying.. if you trace the hose down, you can find it sits to the air regulator which sits up underneath the plenum. Try unplugging the airreg plug and see if it gets worse or better (I am thinking the ecu then probably goes into a fallback mode and regulates things differently?).. Could be worth investigating, but I could be wrong

I will be keen on giving these days a try, once I have my car sorted..

haha, it's a bit like that.. I'm going to have to put up a review the ones I bought too.

photos!!

no mister nick.. no girly gtr's... something that requires a challenge like

good turnout and well organised. good to come along and chat to a few people.. pity my car was about a week and a properly adjusted clutch off .. i reckon the race should be to get a sub 13sec 1/4 mile with at or under 250rwkw.. .. game on

Not properly. It will plug in however.

very old news (well 2 months or so).. They are revision the 360 at the end of the year anyhow, no doubt this will be one thing they will try and fix - just in case in becomes a concern to m$ in future. KeyDrive Xtractor/Patcher This tool will allow you to easily extract and write the unique DVD key to/from an Toshiba 46DH and 47DH and Samsung MN25 Xbox 360 firmware file (so no need to hex-edit it manually anymore). As you might know each DVD drive on the Xbox 360 has a unique key. That key is checked by your Xbox 360 console (so you normally can't switch drives, or use a DVD firmware with a diff key than yours). If the keys don't match the Xbox 360 will give an error while booting. This tool allows you to read/extract the key and write a key to a DVD firmware .bin file. FEATURES: * Compatibility with Toshiba 46DH and 47DH and Samsung MN25 firmwares. * This software can extract the key of any firmware supported and modify it easily * Complete graphic environment * Very user-friendly * English version and Spanish version Current Version: v1.1 Download Binaries: here (0.12 MB) Download Sources: not available Written By: Juanker, Scener and Apolo of the F-360 TEAM Official Website: http://www.foros360.com Forum Thread: http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=509559

Age, wear and tear.. and you really don't know how it's been treated in the past in its 12+ year history. But get the bushes replaced first and see if that makes a difference - at least you have eliminated one thing.. I've had previous cars with bushes so bad the diff flops around.

Hankooks were around the same price (quoted at $210 each from 2x places).. just no stock in QLD - 2 week wait, needed something right away. All the guys in the tyre shop raved about them for the price (and they sold the K104's themselves). anyhow.. too slow, bought them already.. will see how they go.

could be the (a) diff is buggered.. They tent to clunk when power is applied and then released.

sequential turbo setup! nos! cams! lightened flywheel! weight reduction! er... just get an rb25.. by the time you dick with everything the rb25 is the laziest solution for torque and response.. the rb26 lazier still.. just more initial outlay. it doesn't cost much if you can do the work yourself. If you can lift out an rb20 you can lift *in* an rb25 just as easily. It just requires a bit of faith in the engine. Buy one off some kid who stacked his non-insured r33 for instance, that was driving around fine 2 weeks before.

looks like a camry.. goes like a gtr.. but still see point #1

I'll drag ya.. battle of the 17sec club