predator

how much did you pay out of interest?

happy bday daz

sooks I haven't aircon in any of my cars for the last 3 years.. The compressor unit isn't too hard to remove.. 4 bolts, and two connections to the hoses..

I got a cheap one.. but its just from gcg.com.au - u can order from there for like $30.. Not sure if nissan can get them locally.. Part number is 14415-V5300 Alternative Part Num: 14415-4P200

pix of the 14" rims?

I believe the part number is 32202-B9500 Off to nissan to order one today ..

I basically bought it from another forum member over in WA.. it's a custom job though. The only real disadvantage seems to be the heat is transferred to the engine bay a bit more, rather than just the intercooler.. but post cooler seems pretty damn cold. Hopefully the RB25 allow me to use the same piping, or I guess its time to get some more made up... Thinking 3" may be better with some more power so will see how it goes.

You can check that pipe.. or main intake pipe that goes to manifold.. Basically if there is a *lot* of oil in there (as in you can see it dripping off your fingers), there is oil from the sump blowing past the piston rings during each combustion stroke. Meaning the piston rings are worn. This pretty much means there isn't too much life left in the motor as it'll only get worse and worse until something gives way. It can also mean that the turbo is going, letting oil into the system -- again whilst not as bad as piston rings, probably not a great thing. Anyhow, that is my explanation...

yes, you will bleed... r32's suck like that... so much easier in an R33. Often the lines will be fully seized on, so in that case I would recommend some strong pliers and keep twisting until they prise off. At worse, you may have to cut a section of the line off. Well the lines will kind of empty themselves onto the ground, so try and keep them as against the flow as possible, and a good tip is to stick a bolt into the line to stop it going everywhere. I always prime the lines a couple of times after fitting the new filter.

Part of the climate control, sticks out the top of the dash near the windscreen. Its like a light/temp sensor I think. May need some other little climate control plugs off an R32 as well..

Not sure exactly on stags to be honest.. but that seems to be the way it works. looking at a few plates on R33 and R32.. Is it a RWD or 4WD ?

There is like a revision B which is on the R34's I believe.. the R33 and R32's are the same.. The same gearbox is used on a few different Nissans in both RWD and 4WD form.. Do a search for RE4R01A and you'll get a few interesting links No.. RC40 is the diff.. you've probably got a 4.0:1 diff in your stag. I've got an RC43 on my plate.. 4.3:1 auto diff

hey look! my r32 has an aftermarket ECU too!! thought it looked familiar <_<

could be anything, but I can bet its still a factory item.. My 32 has a heap of blank plugs up under the dash big and small.. doesn't mean they're anything special..

Well its a bit quiet and boring in here.. so i thought I'd post some random pictures of the conversion of my car as I go.. Started Sunday afternoon, so not doing too bad so far.. Before.. one still working, but slightly overheating and slow rb20 .. Lets get rid of that for the sake of it.. look! its a floating car.. So far got most of the dash apart, to get things ready to start wiring the RB25 engine loom into the body loom when the engine is in.. and also to get the old RB20 loom out.. Nice and messy.. I've done this before in the old r33, so believe it or not, it all goes back together pretty easily, as long as you remember where everything went. Hmmm, something is missing?? looking kinda empty here... oh.. there it is.. auto is great wood is good too... If a hammer is not used.. its not a back yard job.. seen here is the lovely hand of my assistant mark (syphon). Radiator is out and pipework, etc things are gone... still have to remove a few more things next few days.. so engine is ready to be lifted.. Well there we go.. progress so far..

see if you can get the maltech line for $80 or whatever it is.. means you don't need the other bendy pipes.. Just goes straight from clutch master to slave direct. Otherwise on your list, is what I've got.. so if there is anything missing, I am in trouble Starter, and mounting plate etc just transfers across. I don't have any mechnical knowledge either.. but if you can't be bothered with the hours you will need to spend, thats fair enough. I'd have no trouble recommending Jason to do it, for probably less than a full workshop if you wanted him to. If you can get it done for $3k, thats not too bad, as often the gearbox can go for $1500 on its own.. around $1000 for the rest of the stuff, and around $500 for labour would be fair.

Hi.. I am trying to hook up the digital climate control and replace the analogue one. I've got the extra loom, and worked out where most of it goes... but there are a few extra plugs I need to check where they go to.. as I can't seem to find the matching ones. So if you have a cut that you are doing a conversion on, or maybe you've removed your whole dash for some reason (or are going to soon).. a few pics, or a look in there for me to check these plugs would help. Send a PM.. cheers

hmm, I don't see how you can stuff up a manual conversion, and the conversion should be as per factory.. All the same points, brackets, etc are ready as per manual. Sedans are rarer in manual, so it makes sense to buy an auto if that is all thats available. What do you need to know anyhow? I am doing the conversion myself at the moment. Its an R32, but same bizz..

Check the undercarriage for dodgies.. be careful of ones where the paint looks *too* good, as a cheap job may look good now, but in 6-12 months start bubbling up as more than likely it will be a cheap job (some dealers nearly respray all stock). It will be near 15 years old, not many cars have immaculate paint jobs by then. Otherwise just take it for a drive, check for clunks, floaty steering, make sure the brakes pull it up well. Check for crunches in the gearbox, clutch engages freely, even tyre wear, and oil leaks, particularly under the engine (rb20's love to leak when old - and usually its a bitch to fix). Oh, pull off some of the intercooler piping (or AFM), and check for accessive oil in there. If there is any more than a tiny amount, definitely don't buy it.

yeah it should work.. you can swap rb20 and rb25 ones interchangeably. It might be just off an RB20. Its a laugh when people keep asking for "RB20" AFM's on here.. no difference!

got it off this morning.. the WD40 I think helped.. Just very quick wiggles, whilst pulling hard.. Helps when the steering wheel is 'locked' in position. I marked it all to ensure it goes on properly afterwards without messing up the hicas, etc.

depends if you are talking passenger or driver side? On the passenger side: There is a little plastic that flips off, under the main arm rest.. Under that is a screw.. Also when you pull the small elec window switch, under there is a screw.. If you have a photo I can circle them..

Pull out the switches.. pull out the plastic from behind the handles.. flip the cap off in where you pull the door close.. undo the bolt there.. on the passenger side there is a panel up under the handle there.. under that is a screw. You've probably missed a couple of those..

Any tips by somebody who has removed the factory wheel? Usually its remove the main nut and bash job until it comes off the spline... but this one seems particularly stuborn. Is there anything I can remove or do to make it easier?? Tried soaking in WD40.

whats resetting the computer going to do? make sure the bolts are all tightly done up, exhaust gaskets are in good condition, etc. An exhaust leak can cause unstable idle, possible stalling, etc.