predator

ahh .. looks to be the cushioning one at the top of the shaft, that sits just under the metal part of the strut top. That email will confirm though

Hmmm.. N32840 - whats the shock absorber upper? is that the strut top rubber?

god it takes you three pages to even organise the event? hate to think how long the job will actually take you chumps

yeah, thats the one I'm going to give a try..

If you just want a stock one, you can use the Nissan Patrol clutch, which is slightly stronger (and fits an r33). That is probably the cheapest option if your car is going to stay fairly stock. Otherwise, it really depends on how much you want to spend, your current and future power levels, and how you will be driving (drift, track, road, or drag).. If you can post up what you are looking for, then people might be able to give some more specific recommendations. Generally the Exedy Organic Clutches are a good clutch up to around 230rwkw.. or something like the Xtreme clutches are also quite good at similar price / performance to the Exedy ones. You are looking at anywhere from 300-800 for a new one though, depending on the exact type you are after.

you are the first to ever have a broken r32 airvent .. truly

its the bloody exhaust as paulr33 said.. get a 3" from turbo to the end.. its worthless raising the boost unless you do that first.

use the non-synthethic as well, for longer clutch cylinder life

I wouldn't ever trust anything in a magazine paid by advertisers. And what is good for a pushrod, is not necessarily good for a dual cam turbo engine.

haha sam.. you've been out-blinged homie! Well at least on the brakes side B) like my new 24carrot gold rotors ... Of course the gold on the face of the disc wore off in 1 minute, but hey... it looked cool for a while.

Don't think I will need ECU.. Nor probably loom, as have the RB25 one, but will have to see.. So it should be enough for complete conversion into another car. Price on those would be extra to the engine itself. Sorry I can't be more definitive at the moment, but when I know I will post up. Turbo, lines, etc are transferring across to the RB25, as its an RB25 turbo anyhow.

I think there could be some serious problems with your engine. I would take it to a mechanic that knows skylines to get it fully checked out.

why are insurance premiums so high for p platers driving skylines?

yes.... Running a button.. or twin plate definitely puts more strain as there is a much firmer clamping action. This is obviously good for a firm mating action, but like Elk is saying above the energy has to be transferred through to something, usually the rest of the drive train. If that isn't up to it, snap. In some cases, I tend to think having a clutch that slips slightly is probably better for the long-term health of the gearbox, as there is a little bit of give. Obviously there gets to a point where you need something quite heavy duty (twin, etc) but its not always a good idea to put the heaviest clutch in you can get.

plastibond! Don't know whether they have it over there, but for that sort of smallish job, that is what I would be using. Its basically a two part epoxy (I think!) paste that you mix up, and it hardens to a fibreglass type strength. After that you can get the sandpaper out and smooth it out, so that it follows the original angles.. bit of paint and nobody would know. I've used it to repair small cracks in front bars, and its much easier than using fibreglass for small work.

QR has a dead flat pit area.. you will have no need to even think about the handbrake. you'll get hot.. but the adrenaline will be pumping so you won't care

location?

new commo.. with shit stuck over the top to disguise it.. yes, that is the technical term.

Get a thin plate.. take it to an engraver / key cutter and they can do it for like $10..

R32 with * Stock Auto * Nismo FPR * Apexi S-AFC * K&N panel filter * Highflow RB25 turbo (unknown brand) * 16psi boost * 3" dump, 3" highflow cat, 3" catback with magnaflow muffler * Hybrid style cheapie 400x350x60 cooler Fuel: BP Ultimate. Dyno Temp: 34deg 1/4 mile: 14.651 @ 100mph Reads low on the chart i guess.. As you can see, non-shootout mode, no temp correction, etc, and 30+ deg day which explains a bit.

I'd get a soarer Denham... unless you want a 4 door. Just because there so many of them around these days, parts would be a bit easier to get. Most of the JZA80 Supra suspension components and the like bolts straight into the Soarers, which might mean its cheaper prospect - if there is anything like that needs replacing.

nope...

I bought mine from cash converters for $40. It has the correct AS standard rating. They usually have a few at cheap prices. But I can understand if you would want to buy a new one, but it will cost you. Just check all your fluids.. most importantly coolant and brake fluid. It would depend on your tyres as to what pressure. For ze326, they are crap like you say, so it won't matter too much. I tend to run 32psi cold.. which equates to a few psi above that warm. Seems to work for me.

rb20det and rb20/25 auto gearbox available - see/test running now before removal.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103021 I'm doing my engine swap in about 3 weeks or so. See the gear before I take it all out. Engine probably will be more suited for replacement engine, as some accessories will be required to be transferred to my rb25